JDM TEMS, Corona 162 - 2 & 4 door and many more jdm oddities

Fitting ST202 brakes

I'll leave the old filter in for the first 50ks just to suck up all the break-in gunk.

ST202 Disks etc fitted today as well as Nolathane bushes up front, what a mission to
remove the old front A-arm bushes!! :twisted:
The RHS bushes were completely fukd due to leaky seals over the years.

The main object of the exercise was to fit the disks, change those stretched wheel studs and re-grease/check
the CV's/boots, change the bushes etc. There's a set of Kings springs lying in the shed but they can wait till the car is sorted.

Here's some pic's


ST202 disks/calipers fitted - still looks small but no way you can put the std 14in rims back on


In case you're wondering, those nuts are shorter versions stolen from a ST202.
The std ones stuck out too far

 

S53 Gearbox stripdown & findings

Today's S53 Gearbox stripdown
The optimist voice in my head said "open the spare S53 and see if it's an easy fix"
The other rational voice said "forget it - that kid fukd it good!"
The box was good apart from the fact it refused to stay in 1st or 2nd gear, those 2 gears
share an actuator so I was being optimistic.

Usually it's 2nd, then 1st that goes due to the amount of torque those gears have to transmit.

Removing the outer cover I could aready see the box had been re-furbed before
How do you fuk a box TWICE in less than 140 000km???

Outer casings & 5th gear removed



The gears and linkages complete minus 5th gear



The gears with linkages removed, note reverse gear idler seperate on it's own shaft



The gears from the other side, reverse idler gear removed to show the shafts
Bottom small gear is 1st, straight cut gear is reverse (that's why it whines in reverse, race boxes are also straight cut),
then 2nd, 3rd, 4th above. 5th sits outside the main casing on those splines at the top and easily changed without opening the box.
(6 speed conversions lenghten those shafts and add another gear outside the 5th gear, using the 5th gear selector to work in 2 directions)



The gear linkages, note they are covered in nylon for better wear, noise etc. C-Series boxes do not have
the nylon covers, there are NO interchangable parts in the C-Series although it looks very similar (well, identical)



The gears and diff removed, the diff is matched to the secondary shaft - ie. you cannot change the diff ratio
without changing the secondary shaft as well. The gears are pressed onto the shaft apart from 1st, R, 2nd which
are machined as part of the primary shaft. Changing diffs/ratios/shafts is not as simple as you would think!



The inner casing (bellhousing) with it's large roller bearings, can be swapped with MR2 or FE type bellhousing



Unfortunately all the syncros (incl 5th & reverse) were totally fukd due to hooligan antics, so some parts have gone into
the spares collection, the rest are in the bin.

These are the selector ring teeth (tool steel) which engage with the brass syncro rings and gears,



These selector ring teeth teeth are shaped (flycut) to keep the car in gear, once the shapes change as in this pic
there is no way it will stay in gear when power is applied.
Typical of ramming into 2nd and hard pull-offs, not often seen on the last 3 gears


BE WARNED - Short shifters & crash changes!
These gearboxes use brass rings to "brake"/slow the spinning gears before the teeth can mesh (similar idea to your handbrake shoes)
If the gears don't have enough time to slow down due to short shifters or crash changing, thin oil, oil additives etc
The syncro teeth are ground away by the motor, resulting in a box which struggles to select gears, won't stay in gear etc,

Reverse gear has no syncro, give it more time to slow down in an older box
or the engagement teeth end up looking like this



Check your shift cable bushes, they are prone to wearing out like in this pic,
keep them well greased and check the square bush for wear as well, turn it if needed
Brass versions are also available online for around $10


The square selector bush (GT4 box pic) needs to be lubed too, turn it round or replace it if worn


I also recommed using 80W/90 Gear oil, ATF is designed for Auto boxes and does not protect your gears and bearings as well as gear oil,
esp if you are prone to ramming it into gear. (Auto boxes use hydralic pressure to keep it in gear and have an oil cooler to keep temps down!)
ATF is great for race gearboxes which are overhauled regulary, not in a 22yr old worn box.

S54 gears/syncros/bellhousings are interchangable with S53
You can't just swap bellhousings either - the reverse selector mechanism is bolted to the bellhousing
from the inside

My box turned out to be a std JDM item, gear ratio's are as follows:
1st - 14/46 = 3,286
2nd - 24/49 = 2,041
3rd - 31/41 = 1,323
4th - 35/36 = 1,028
5th - 39/32 = 0.820
Diff - 17/71 = 4,176

Which is actually very dissapionting, the JDM car is set for very fast acceleration with very little top speed ie:
(a 1500cc Alfasud has longer gearing and higher top end!!!), it will be difficult to get more than 210km/h out of these ratios.
Great for track/rally use but totally useless for economy in highway use.

I'm now looking for a 5th gear set 0.731 or lower ratio to suit these boxes?

Easy filling Tip
I found an easier way to fill these boxes.
Drain the oil from the red plug overnight, replace & torque it (GT4 has 2 of these)
Remove the filler plug (yellow) and the reverse switch or adjuster on the top.



Put a small funnel into the switch hole and fill till oil runs from the filler hole - easy!

 

Windcreen removal & rust

Swapping the screens I found this (just in time)
I'm hating the silly clips used to hold the beadings down, they just don't work properly and people have been
gluing them in which leads to a buildup of water and the crap you see in these pics

 

Corona & JDM indicators, JDM sidelights for sale

I still have JDM sidelights and both versions of JDM indicators (87 + 89) as well as these puppies -
Guru, how the heck did you mount them as I see they're supposed to bolt to the headlight?

Corona GTR park light


Does not have a seperate indicator light - it's in the bumper


The USDM vs JDM sidelight - JDM ver does not have reflective material inside

 

Corona indicator convesion, TEMS computer

Here's the new rear hatch cover I made using the old supports, a piece of 5mm
Alu composite panel (ACM)
and some string and felt glued on. 1000 times stronger, weatherproof and weighs less than the original.
Remember to file the edges or it will cut the material, your hands etc


Here's the location of the TEMS computer and (I guess) motion sensors, nestled under the rear LHS window.
I'm thinking of hiding the new Sony Xplod amp there as well - any better ideas or suggestions?


Began the interior stripdown for the conversion from blue to black


Anybody need any blue interior bits or fittings? Last time I forgot to change the hand brake
lever as well and it looked odd. Note power-fold mirrors are now repaired and working

Tinted the new screen before fitting, that's the maximum allowed here, or I would have gone a lot lower
Beer fridge needs more car/race stickers!

 

Re: JDM parts, $1 Celica's, TEMS from New Zealand....

I normally hide camera's, CD's etc under the seats,
I've seen guys hide amps inside the sub before
My boot's not an option as it's always full of tools, I'm adding
lights & a lighter socket there to charge drills etc on the move.

I like "stealth" systems - heard but not seen, much more fun seeing
people trying to figure it out, sadly not many hiding places on the Celi's

Fark, I was busy measuring speakers to fit in the doors & came inside for
some coffee, car wasn't locked

Went back out and some opportunist must have seen one of the Fusion
6" door speakers lying in the car, it's gone

Another $80 in the toilet, man I'm pissed

 

Re: JDM parts, $1 Celica's, TEMS from New Zealand....

LOL. I'm surprised there isn't a "No drinking" sign on the cupholders!
looks the same as mine otherwise

My FE has has a remote locking alarm which is really cool exept that it locks automatically
sometimes and I've been caught twice with the keys inside, now there's a spare hidden
under the car.

The TEMS is getting remote locking with an extra solenoid on the boot, nothing worse than
having to put stuff down to open the boot. I hate immobilisers, so I use a fuel cut which I
think is a better and more confusing way to immobilize your wheels

 

Re: JDM parts, $1 Celica's, TEMS from New Zealand....

Yip, It's annoying but not worth letting it get to you

I've got a weird problem, when I stripped the two cars I chucked all the mounts together and when I put
the motor back I noticed the front mount had to go in loose and it pulls the
motor forward.
The engine is solid as phuk. Now I put the brace & rad in and the inlet is against the brace and the
pipes are hard against the radiator fan. I'm going to have to pull it all out and try different brackets
The two crossmembers are different too...
The alternator bracket brace is now too short as well, but I may have a 182 mount in there

 

Toyota E153 gearbox conversions?

Yeah, I found a few 6v E153 articles, seems like a popular choice.

I'ts also big with the Lotus Exige guys who go beserk with custom shafts,
carrier housings, 2ZZ bellhousings etc. (Dunno why they don't just fit the C series BZR
6-speed?)
One of the Exige articles I found said the Final drive was 4.2-1, which is dissapointing if true.

I'd like to buy the box, but $250 for a busted box is steep in my view when I can
pull a working one from a V6 Camry for $100 (albeit no LSD!)

Still I think the LSD alone is worth it? and I could always change the crownwheel

On a lighter note, I bought 2 of these back-up warning hooters ($15) because I'm sick of
morons walking behind my car every time I try to reverse.
Connects to your reverse lights and sounds like a truck backing up, sounds wacky but
far better than squashing someone's stupid kid or the doucebag that stands behind your car
and refuses to move!


The other one I'm going to wire up to a 100degC sensor on the motor, that way next time
I'll have an audio warning before the radiator hoses blow (That's the idea at least!)
Am I the only one who thinks the standard temp gauge sukz?

 

R.I.P. UH2892

R.I.P.

Today is a sad day in 4thGendom

The affair started 3 years ago...


$150 later and she was mine, fukd wiring, waterpump, leaks, broken starter, smashed steering column, busted box, 202 seats and all.
The mags were 15in 5 spokes and she looked and sounded like she was going places - fast


Sadly the previous neglect and operator failure as well as her age were against her - she became an enemy of the state
and an eyesore the neighbors just could'nt see past.
I got to drive her - twice, the second time the head gasket went on the harbour bridge.


The rear lenses now live on Mafix'z Nemesis in US of A,
the front end, windows are going to Fiji to breathe new life into an AT160 there,
the motor, interior, screen now live inside the TEMS,
the sunshade & door stays now live in France on Oxi's car
st162 Rocket has the badges & repeaters in California
Celica Turbo has the Speedo is in Switzerland
- and there's heaps more spares looking for a good home.








Farewell UH2892, you will be missed but not forgotten

 

Re: JDM parts, $1 Celica's, TEMS from New Zealand....

Yeah, it was in ICU when I found it anyway, I had hopes for it. Other option was to build a race car
(the sunroof alone weighs 20kgs above your head!)
-but with the recession that's no longer an option for most of us.

The car has taught me a lot, and stripping the parts is revealing a ton of useful information,
& there are heaps of tutorials waiting to be published.

I'm awed by the quality of equipment used in these cars (usually covered in gunk!),
22yrs later and all the things that normally conk on other cars is still in pristine condition.
Unfortunately there is also a lot of bad news, re- rust/wear in places nobody has looked yet!

I only wish I had done the same with the Corona and that other guys would keep us informed,
sothat we could at least re-distribute parts where needed.

I'm here in Auckland and willing to help out where possible, unfortunately I usually only get to see cars when it's already too late.
We need to promote conservation of the cars NOW - before it's too late and wer'e down to 5 or so members
- like has happened with many historic car sites & clubs.