JDM TEMS, Corona 162 - 2 & 4 door and many more jdm oddities

Re: JDM parts, $1 Celica's, TEMS from New Zealand....

I left the handles in as the only problem I ever had was those nuts coming loose.
I can see if I can rescue them for you

The fenders were pretty buckled and the left one cut lower down. I have a new set
on the way to Fiji at the moment, I thought of keeping the tail lights but nobody has ever
asked for them. There was a complete FE motor lying inside as well as tons of stuff nobody
seems to want.

The interior, windows, bonnet, motor, bumpers etc are all standing here waiting for the buyers, but it
seems I'm surrounded by timewasters here at the moment

Guys came to me wanting stuff and had no money, I offered the parts in exchange for for helping
me strip etc, but even that didn't work. Seems the idea of working for something is alien to the kids
and probably explains the demise of these cars here.

I have a serious space shortage at the moment, the TEMS interior is all over my lounge and bathroom,
there are boxes of spares, motors all over the place and once the car is sorted, I'm chucking most of the spares

 

Car parts storage ideas

Today I went to hand in the plates and fill in the "death certificate", bought some new speakers to
replace the stolen one and tried to get the exhaust welded up. No joy with the exhaust as it's
stainless and had a few dents in it, a new front section is in order.

Some good ideas there, my current place is a large flat and I built a shed outside. Not ideal

I have parts bins all over and the shed is filled with motors, boxes, panels etc, I only
want to keep spares I may need in the future plus some JDM parts. Trick is to know what's
worth keeping, your input is extreemly valuable



Those dash supports are way overweight thick wall steel and probably good for another 100 years,
I treated mine on the outside as it seems it's moisture coming from the heater that's doing all the damage
under the dash. The lower console brackets and gearlever housing are a worry though.
Alwayz, your's looks new - what is it? ST202?

I like the idea of magazine articles etc, any exposure is better than no exposure
Rich, you should submit articles to your local paper, they are always looking for locals to brag about
and who knows who will see it.

I tried to get those door handles and remembered there is a set of Kings springs in the scrap car.
I could'nt find the car - not even among the squashed cars, admin doesn't know where it is either
so it seems it left my place and went straight into the Bermuda Triangle.

Good news is that there were 5 ST182's in good nick and believe it or not an almost complete ST185
(minus ex mani & front shocks, disks etc)
Unfortunately someone is hacking the silencers off all the cars so I still don't have a solution to my exhaust problem.
I bought a mint recon ST182 radiator and will see if I can mod the brackets to suit (All my ST162
rads seem to to be cracking top tanks lately and Toyota doesn't have stock??).

 

Celica ST162 rear brake stripdown & rear wheel stud removal

I needed to strip UH2892 for spares and change the busted studs on the TEMS car.

This is just a breakdown, ie to change pads you only need to lift the caliper, push the piston back, put in the pads and close it up again.
To change the wheelbearing it may not be neccessary to remove the drum shoes
If changing the wheel bearing it is advisable to replace the handbrake shoes at the same time,
the pads are very thin and not intented for doing handbrake turns or slowing the car

Remove the 12mm bolt and lift the caliper up, remove the pads



Slide the centre section inward on the top pin, it will free itself like this



Loosen the 2 14mm bolts holding the bracket and remove it



Remove the disk, sounds easy - remember to release the handbrake and if it won't move you may have to
remove the rubber window and loosen the adjuster at the bottom of the hub.
This is the adjuster you may have to turn using a long screwdriver



Remove the two top springs



There are two more clips on each shoe looking like washers on springs.



Remove the top hinge plate and it's spring - note how thin the pads are!



You will then be able to lower the shoes like this and remove the cable by pushing the spring
back and pushing the cable forward. If you are just doing the wheel bearing it's not neccessary to remove the cable at this point



Shoes removed, the hub is held on by 4 bolts easily removed by putting a socket through the holes on the wheel flange.



Note: A normal person would now remove the hub to remove the wheel studs or change the
wheel bearing. This car was scrap and I didn't have a press or vice handy, or time to find one!.
Do not do this on a running car or you may damage the wheel bearing!!!!


Put a nut over the stud to protect the threads, never hit/press/saw/grind a bolt or stud without protecting it first



You will now press out the stud in your vice or press using a large hollow socket/pipe behind the stud.
I just gave it 2 wacks with a hammer to release the studs (and fukd the bearing at the same time?)



Some of the studs I removed, ready to do service for another 22 years,
note there is no damage to the threads or end of the stud.



I notice a disturbing trend here -
people think they have to tighten wheel bolts and/or studs to breaking point in order to keep the wheel from coming loose.

The bolts function is to hold the wheel against the flange only, the centre piece does all the work and takes the weight of the car -
NOT THE BOLTS!!

Always make sure the centre piece is a tight fit when fitting new rims, often a rim will fit but
a collar may be reqiured or the rim centre may need to bored out slightly.

 

Removing debris from the Celica heater/ventilation system

Ventilation System noisy, not blowing properly?

The TEMS had it's heater blower filled with leaves and making strange noises when you put the fan on.

I pulled all 3 units from the spares car (1 Blower, 2 Air con condenser, 3 Main air dispersal unit)
and re-conned them, also gave me a chance to see how everything goes together and works.

Unfortunately you cannot remove the blower unit without first removing the other two.
The problem was the aircon was working (on 20+yr R12 gas!) and no way was I going to drain and re-fill the system.

The only solution I could see was to create a window into the condenser unit and remove the leaves
(the condenser itself acts as a filter for the rest of the system and traps 99.9% of the junk)

Problem is the radiator is flimsy aluminium and there is an expansion valve, pipes and a sensor located
on the inlet side where the leaves were collecting.



the solution I devised is as follows:

Step 1
Remove the cubby from the dash
Remove the fan from the bottom of the blower unit (Large black plate, 3 screws, rubber cooling pipe),



Remove the blower resistor as well or risk damaging it, reach in and remove whatever leaves you can.
Rustproof the resistor heat sink as no doubt it will be badly rusted. Be very careful removing/replacing the
resistor as the coils break easily.



Step 2
Drill a hole in the Condenser casing, CAREFULLY, don't allow the bit to go past the plastic
or you may damage the expansion valve or aircon pipes



Step 3
Slowly expand the hole to the size of the grommet you are going to plug it with, use a dremel, small file,
small grinding tip etc



Step 4
Remove whatever leaves you can using tweezers, a small pipe attached to a vacuum cleaner etc.
Re-fit the fan and switch it on to help blow out the leaves



Step 5
Once the leaves are removed, close the hole with the grommet. I used a floor grommet removed from my spare car



Step 6
Re-fit the cubby and enjoy your heater/blower at it's full capacity

I'm now looking at making a wire filter to fit over the fan entry hole below the windscreen
and stop this happening again,

luckily I now have a handy trapdoor for cleaning my system as well.

 

Harcore spiders in NZ

Glad you approve,

"Tips & Cheats" Dept is now open for business

I should get danger pay! After spraying the inside of the car with insect spray and leaving it for a day (webs everywhere)
I found another of those nasty looking fukrs living under the dash.
They are known as "Huntsman spiders" here and these things can reach 8in across!


Mom - look what I found

Here's the near new St182 rad compared to the gen4, it's wider & the brackets and holders
are all in the wrong places. A lot of work to get it fitted


Here's the parts from UH that are being shipped to Fiji for Eugene's AT160
In the backround is the spare complete sunroof and I've been doing some window tinting this week


Thanks to those who wished me a happy birthday, good on you guys
One of my favourite presents is a NutSac, girlfriend loves playing with my NutS
At least now they're safe and warm

 

Mitchell on-demand System - (Toyota Celica 83-), O2 Sensors

I missed it too

I've been so busy working shifts, putting the TEMS together, stripping & sorting parts etc.

This is another cool prezzie I got from the folks in UK, haven't had time to check it out fully
but it looks like the Celica BGB's on disk (1983-)


It's called the "Mitchell on demand System" - sound familiar?

I went to fit the O2 sensor to the G2 pipe, guess what?


Oops, the G1 has 1 wire and smaller, the G2 has 4 wires and larger - what now?
I checked my FE for swapping the exhaust as well and that is a screw in O2 sensor with 2 wires
Looks like I have to start making adaptors?
Damn Toyota engineers with nothing better to do! Seems NTK has a kit for this problem


I'm looking for this wire holder if anyone knows where to find one in good condition, I have 2 - this is the best one!

 

O2 sensors?, solid air dam, 12V LEDS - automotive

O2 sensors
I'd rather chuck them if it doesn't screw with the emissions test
What happens if I disconnect them?

Oil
Good observation re the oil - it's the TEMS car! (electronic shocks in the backround are a givaway)
I bought it for $350 with a blown gasket and had to wait 2 weeks to tow it home.

Misc
Here is one of the rarest items you will ever see - the solid ST162 Airdam!



These are the 12V LED's I'm using to illuminate the boot, engine bay, footwells, cubby, cabin in the TEMS car,
We use them for making signs nowdays instead of crappy flourescent tubes
I'm busy sourcing smaller items for the doors etc
They're in parallel and can be run in singles or as long as you like,
stick them on anywhere with d/sided tape without having to make up holders etc



here's the 3M VHB d/sided tape I was on about the other day, it was invented to hold buildings together!

 

TEMS assembly glitches - pre-post crossmembers , ST202 brake

I don't believe in luck, you make your own luck in life!
Just keep scrounging the yards, the internet and stuff will become available

TEMS Lives!
I fired her up last nite for the 1st time in 3 months, motor sounds great and fired immediately after
some problems getting pressure to the bearings. (Eventually resorted to priming the pump and gallery).

You guys will not believe the crap I'm having - there are two totally different Gen1 engines
Don't believe me? - check some of the differences posted already plus the problem was compounded by
having to strip UH as well.

I was stuck with 3 of everything and decided to keep the best parts for the TEMS - BIG MISTAKE!
My engine mount problem turned out to be the wrong crossmember and rear mount, the TEMS crossmember
was pretty shabby, dented etc so I used the one from UH -
Looks the same?


Forget it, check out the hole spacing - there are other differences as well, ie the bushes are different
thicknesses/shapes as well between the pre-post facelift cars


Facelift on left has narrower spacing and thinner bushes, flat mounts etc

The Cambelt side mount problem is I have a Gen2 mount and will have to make my own brace to the Gen1 alternator bracket

The St182 fan (a joke) is in and clears the exhaust, now I have to modify the aircon pipe as it's too close
to the Gen2 exhaust - farkk!!. Here's a nice Gynae shot of the headers



These braces come from the 2 different motors, use the one on the Right and it rubs against the gear linkage cables
The other must be a later version offset to eliminate this problem (hung them loose to show the 2 types). Also those vacuum pipes for the P/S pump are level on the other motor, not staggered like this.
The other brace (not pictured) has an exhaust hanger on the bottom which is now too short,
I'll have to lengthen it or bend the exhaust upwards to meet it


I had to swap these vacumm pipes as well




ST202 Brakes
This pic is for Rev - It's the ST202 disks and calipers from the inside, minus those stoopid dust covers which I detest
a) You can't visually check the disk wear
b) I had an "off" in the UK once and gravel got jammed between the disks and the covers


You can see the (rusted) areas under the bolts which were machined down, also I had to fit thick washers
under the caliper bolts or they rub the disk.
Way better/easier to use the whole ST202 hub or a 5mm spacer under the disk!!!

 

Celica - strange exhaust sensor?

Yeah maybe, I saw the prices and had to sit down for a while :|

Can anybody tell me what this is?



My guess is it must be a temp sensor for the cat?
It was found tied up under the handbrake and on top of the exhaust, I checked the other car
and it looks like it was fitted at some stage as well, only the grommet remained.

Obviously it's not essential, but if it's an exhaust sensor maybe worthwile fitting to the new exhaust?

 

Toyota Celica Acronyms

As we're on the subject, I'd like to list the Toyota acronyns as I'm
tired of looking stuff up and I'm sure others are too

Feel free to fill in/add to the list!

ABS = Anti-lock Brake System
ADM = Australian Dealer Market
AFM = Air Flow Meter
AllTrac = NADM GT4 Model (with Bodykit minus Viscous Diff)
BGB = Big Green Book
BVSV = Bimetal Vacuum Sensor Valve
CASA = Centre Airbag Sensor Assembly (ST182-)
CCS = Cruise Control System
ECT = Electronically Controlled Transmission (2 Mode Auto)
ECT-S = Electronically Controlled Transmission - Sport (3 Mode Auto - JDM only?)
ECU = Electronic Control Unit (Engine controller)
EFI = Electronic Fuel Injection
EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation
EGT = Exhaust gas temp sensor
EPC = Electronic Parts Catalog
ESC = Electronic Skid Control (ABS)
EVAP = Evaporative Emission Control (Charcoal filter sys)
FPD = Fuel Pulsation Damper
GT4 = JDM AllTrack Version (No bodykit, Viscous Diff optional)
ISC = Idle Speed control valve (Inside T/B)
JDM = Japanese Dealer Market
LASRE = Lightweight Advanced Super Response Engine
Live Sound = Fujitsu Speaker System
NADM = North American Dealer Market
PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilation
PDLS = Power Door Lock System
PEGASUS = Precision Engineered Geometrically Advanced Suspension
SRS = Supplemental Restraint System
TCCS= Toyota Computer Controlled System (includes ECU)
TSCC = Twin Swirl Combustion Chamber (3S-FE)
TEMS = Toyota Electronic Modulated Suspension (JDM only?)
TPS = Throttle Position Sensor
T-VIS = Toyota Variable Inlet System
TWC = Three Way Catalyst
VSS = Vehicle Speed Sensor (inside Speedo)
VSV = Vacuum Switching Valve

 

EVAP System delete, TEMS progress report

Nearly, it's passed the shakedown tests but last night I noticed fresh oil lying under the motor,
and one of the hoses has a slight leak just as the fans come on.
I need to set the idle as well, it was too high and the only way I could get it down was to ADVANCE the distributor???

The exhaust still needs to be welded up and the interior put back once the new alarm, sound, amp,
remote boot opener, towbar, window tints, new window winders are in.

The "interim motor", shafts & box are extreemly quiet - which is reaally nice! (real motor is still under development)
This motor has some minor experimental mods, but it's on it's last legs.
I couldn't "clean" the bores by honing, the block & head are rusted badly (see bottom of pic)
& I had to replace the melted bearings with 2nd hand's from an old FE motor



The ridges around the valves are now smoothed - spot the difference?
Next head will be done properly with the valves out


Air does'nt like flowing around sharp corners, so we'll see if the cleanup works!

The new ST182 electric seats need the brackets to be welded on, the aircon pipe is too close to the
new exhaust & needs wrap as well, the rear windows are leaking and may have to come out as well,
that glue inside them is horrible stuff!!


Another day or two and it should all be sorted, but I'm in no hurry
I just want it to be "RIGHT"!

Last night I threw the entire EVAP system in the bin as I think it actually wastes fuel by sucking up the vapor,
I always had a major vapor lock in the tank. It hasn't affected the idle at all and I think the response is actually a bit better.
Fuel filter replacement is a lot easier now too!

 

Drivers window replacement & problems

I've been busy on the TEMS all weekend, progress has been dismally slow,
Here's the new alarm system wiring with the remote boot opener and a fusebox for the alarm & sound built in.
I cut up an old harness in order to keep the same colour codes as the car and restore some sanity to the wiring



I tinted the windows in the car except for the drivers window which was faulty.
I tinted the window out of the car thinking I could get it in without scratching - bad idea, very bad
The window motor was making horrible clucking noises and the window juddering up/down,
also it refused to go all the way up.

The complete drivers side window mechanism



Once the motor was removed the cause became apparent, the teeth had rusted and broken
away, this had also damaged the gear inside the motor!
The screws & holders were also badly rusted and the material window pads were missing,
this is to show the rusted spring, a new window pad and the rusted holders.
The teeth in the rusted area are gone



If your window is scratching on the outside
the cause is contact with the outside rubber.
Loosen the material pads slightly to relieve the pressure.

If your window is scratching on the inside
the cause is the material pads have worn down and the black section is missing.
The white hooks on the window clip under those black pads and pull the window inward against the rubbers.
Unfortunately it can cause the black pads to come unstuck and the resulting window scratches.