JDM TEMS, Corona 162 - 2 & 4 door and many more jdm oddities

Welcome to my page where we are fortunate to have all the Japanese 2nd's, OZ won't have them or Holden/Ford would throw their toys around -

Set your personal settings to always view the last post 1st or you'll always end up here, here's a simplified map of the thread for those who get stuck (me) & can't find stuff (me) -

Some threads are not working after a site revision - we are working to fix the problem and I'd like to thank Seank90, Gages50, eNtraxGT88, celicaman, MattC


MENU

The site

-My latest page-
-JDM Used Spares - Indicators, mirrors, ECU's etc - watch for my threads -
-Got your ST162.NET shirt yet?-
-If you still don't have your car sticker-
-Aftermarket ST162 Parts?, Toyota Parts?-
-Ride of the month, ROTM voting-
-4th Gen Celica desktop gallery-
-4th Gen Celica hall of shame-
-Member's cars gallery-
-Engine bay gallery-
-Members interior picture gallery-


Electrical

-Fuel pump replacement, GE/GTE distributor differences-
-Window switch repair-
-3/4/5S Starter relay mods - Starter relay and wiring-
-Starter Diagnosis-
-Fuel cutout switch install-
-Adding a spoiler & spots-
-Battery Maintenance Tips-
-The different Gen4 console types & some common faults-
-Diagnosing Charging/Alternator/Battery faults-
-Heater repair -
-Repairing the blower/heater system -
-Battery problem/drainage tips -
-Starter motor - recon tips
-Fitting a larger alternator -
-The instrument console, types, repairs & upgrades
-Converting A/C from R12 to R13 -


Motor
-Replacing Cambelt, water pump, oil pump etc-
-Gen 1-3 Shim & bucket comparison-
-Why you can't use Gen2/3/4 cams in Gen1 motors-
-Gen2 GTE head pics & notes-
-Gen2 GE exhaust swap for gen1 GE/FE motors-
-Gen2 (ST182/SW20) GE head pics and notes-
-Cam Timing tips -
-Injector size chart -
-Another Injector size chart -
-Are GE & GTE heads different?-
-Valve shim replacement notes & tips-
-Intake mod thread-
-Comparing the FE/GE/GTE motors, noob guide -
-Whats different FE/GE/GTE-
-Smokey engine? High oil comsumption?-
-3S-GE gen2 head and cam notes-
-Diagnosing Cooling problems-
-Oil pressure (Fact vs Fiction)-
-Strange but true, 2 types of GE gen1 motors-
-How to build a Gen2 3S-GTE-
-How to build a 700hp 5S-GTE-
-Fitting Gen2 or aftermaket headers -
-Adding extra radiator fans, engine covers, spoiler covers -
-Engine assembly tips -
-New motor startup and running-in tips -
-Oil/Oil pump tips & tricks -
-Bearing failure, causes & pics -
-Diagnosing a smoking engine
-Cams - FE/GE/GTE -
-FE alternator bracket mod -
-My Fuel Injector size chart -
-Fitting other injectors - -Cam timing and cambelt Replacement -

Brakes

-Gen4/5/6 brake types & tips-
-GT4 Brake upgrade, cheap alternate upgrades
-Rear brake, new pads, studs & wheel bearing
-ST165/ST202 brake fitting notes and comparison
-Converting to ST185/202 front Brakes -
-Brake master cyl upgrade -


Gearbox/Power Steering

-S53-S54 Gearbox swap-
-Jumping out of gear-
-Diagnosing Manual Gearbox problems-
-Manual S53 gearbox internal inspection-
-S53 Gearbox stripdown and findings-
-Another short shifter how-to-
-How Toyota changed gearbox oil specifications as the years went by-
-Converting an Auto to Manual-
-Clutch master & slave cylinder replacement-
-Common manual gearbox questions and answers-
-Gear Ratios explained-
-Converting 4wd to 2wd-
-E series gearbox discussion-
-E series gearboxes & AWD - FWD conversion notes -
-Short shifters - tips & tricks
-Automatic Gearboxes, stripdown pics and tips -
-Power Steering hose repair -
-3S-GE gen1 ver1 vs ver2-


Tyres & Rims

-Rim/Offset calculator-
-Tyre size calculator/comparison -


Shocks

-Noisy shocks? -
-The ST182 Active suspension system exposed-

Exterior

-Headlight, Lids adjustment/setting-
-GT4 bumper conversion-
-ST182 windscreen rubber on st162-
-Body kit choices -
-Matte black decals -
-Window Tint DIY -
-Fitting a Corona front spoiler -
-Rear number plate surrounds -
-Clear indicators, Fitting Corona sidelights/indicators -
-Sticker removal and panel cleaning tips-
-White Lightning (Rare OZ model) Sticker kits -
-The 4 mirror types, pics & explanations -
-Windcreen removal and rust -
-Rust - spotting & prevention -
-My custom stickers -
-Fitting GT4 side sills -
-Sticker kits for your car (complete or part) -
-Swapping tail light lenses -

Interior

-Cup holders -
-Fitting dual electric seats & St182 interior -
-Leaky Dash vent fix -
-Making a new parcel shelf -
-Secret compartment mod -
-Remove & fix your Dash fan, AC valve etc -
-Halfords DIY A/C refill kit (UK) -


Driveshafts

-CV boot clamps and special tool -
-Wheel bearing nut loose? -

Toyota History

-The story behind the Toyota logos -
-Toyota acronyms, ie wtf is a ESC? -
-Juha Kankunnen's private collection-
-New book - Celica GT4 - Rally Giants -
-Toyota/TTE/AAR-
-Other ST162's, Corona & 4 door versions -
-TTE built Group N car -

Interesting Videos

-ST162/5 Retracting mirrors at work -
-The ST162 TEMS system startup -
-ST162 TEMS system adjust -
-JDM ST162 Exhaust crackle (stock) -
-The JDM ST162 GT-R with 2.75" exhaust -
-Racing Celi's in action -
-Tacoma & wet tar don't go, almost rams a 4x4 -
-Tacoma on dirt-
-Pikes Peak 5th gen, botches the start & sets a record -
-Safari 4th gen in it's element -
-Del Mar GTO's, unbelievable handling -
-Portland GTO's, straight line speed (were they really backing off?, looks like it) -
-Opel GSI 1988 Digi dash in action

ST162 digi dash working
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2m1k3rZadQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9StEEkVr58U
As you can see many of the segments no longer work

 

Re: Tales of the $1 Celica and more....

I'm from South Africa (pronounced Sowff Effreka) where there are no Celica's (apart from a few owner imported RA60's). In 2004 I went to New Zealand (Nu Zlnd) to visit friends


Somebody mentioned a Celica standing in a mates back yard and I was already in ecstacy before I'd even seen it,
a TOYOYA CELICA for $120???? - I didn't care if it was wrecked or not.
It was THE performance car of the late 80's and you had to be a millionaire to
import one into Africa and pay 100% import duty etc, etc.

It was a Celirona 162 3S-FE auto, the previous guy "forgot" to tell me it was on an incline
and the trunk hinges were faulty (common I believe). When we got there it had about 2in of water inside,
I stripped out the carpets and shampoo'd the whole interior but weeks later strange looking plants
with long leaves started growing out the carpets. Years of pips had taken their toll and instead
of weed killer (scuze the pun) I chose to replace the carpet.

Imagine getting caught in a roadblock and sniffer dogs etc, how would you explain your way out of that one?
But officer it's a hydroponics experiment...., I thought it was the organic carpet option, Weed? I thought they were daisies....

My 1988 Corona ST162 with it's "funny" front end - Indicators are in the bumper a la st182.





The 14in 5 spoke rims looked OK, apart from being Japanese. How did I know?
They had "For perfection in speed" written on them


The car was ex JDM and had 13 satisfied dope smokers before me in Nu Zlnd alone,
one must have been in a wheelchair :corsair because the dash and cards had huge gouges and scratches everywhere.
I got all new stuff down at the breakers as there WERE (no jokes) tens of Celicas lying around.

I drove it for a year before finding a white 1988 Celica 3S-FE auto in good condition
for $400 standing on a pavement nearby. I gave it to my girlfiend to use but she hated it saying
she coud'nt get her kids in/out the back. The trunk never worked properly either and sometimes
you had to climb through the back seat to release the trunk :lol2
I then stripped/swapped all the stuff I wanted and put it up for sale for 8 months, eventually selling it as a Demo Derby car for $1.
Yes you heard right, $1 reserve - NOBODY would bid on it for 8 months!! :shock: That's him chucking it on a truck with a crane!!! - Kiwi's??? :x
Here's the link: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=89409444

At least it's death was honourable, I never heard if it won or not as the track was in Huntly,
Hamilton. I hate seeing things go, esp things that I like, but the landlord was on my ass with 4 cars,
a company van and only 3 parking spaces

Had I known then, I would also have kept the indicators and rear spoiler, mags,
wooden steering wheel, radiator, alternator, motor, box, gauges, switches etc

Anyway no sooner had I brought the Celica home, fixed the scratches along the side and
changed all the seals, belts, headgasket etc and gave it a complete service, it has been an utterly reliable daily
ever since - well apart from a cambelt idler which decided to seize for no reason in traffic one day,
and the heater now has to be persuaded to change from hot to cold
(I suspect the motor or flap may be faulty)

Not bad after 8 owners, bit of a bugger when the instructions, Fuseboxes etc are all in Japanese


The std interior - pity about those chrome strips on the seats and stringy holders


The car failed the test (Structural damage - ???) gotta love those guys, not -
someone had managed to put a jack through the bottom of the left fender and a new one was scavenged for $10


New fender and "those" rims, you can see the hole where the Japanese "parking aerial" was in the bumper.


Head gasket was playing up (probably why it was so cheap) so I had to get intimate with the 3S-FE


Cleaned the pistons and valves with a wire brush and roughly honed the glazed bores with the pistons in
(grease around the rings 1st!)


This is what the power mirror switch looks like


Fark, they're breeding out there!

 

Re: Tales of the $1 Celica and more....

An 87 GTR came up for $150 and I thought "spares car" and grabbed it even though it was a Manual 3SGE.
It was pretty much rooted, the steering column lock had been smashed off, starter had burned,
waterpump was leaking, radiator was leaking, steering rack had massive play on the left wheel and
the dash wiring had been tampered with. It had nice embroidered st202 seats which were not electric
and didn't go with the blue interior. The gearbox syncros are history as well but I found another box for $20
from a vandalised ST171 Station wagon which has yet to go in.
Not sure what the ratios will be like but will open it up first and check.

Still trying to decipher all those red wires - someone had grafted in an 88 control unit and it
wasn't working properly, no diagram I've found so far matches this harness (Japanese 1987 GTR version)
and I've stripped about 8 others out of cars in the hope one will match :evil:


I decided that it was way too nice to strip, no sign of rust, straight panels, sunroof (full of rustworms!)
and once I got the motor fired up - it revs like a bike engine


Corona ST162 front spoiler


Rustworms! luckily I caught them in time and rustproofed the panel

So the Corona column, complete interior, A/C (all the connectors and wiring were there already),
front airdam (solid), doorlocks, passenger vanity mirror light all got swapped over into the GTR.
I though of swapping the Corona front end but the "frog eyes" are just so cool.
A newish steering rack was scavenged from a 92 Curren and a Momo leather steering wheel drafted into service.


A set of 5 16in 00 Celica rims with tyres (Toyo 205/50/16 T1-S) came my way for $200 and with the Kings springs looks pretty good.
Anyone know where I can find another tyre as they seem to be extinct?
I'm contemplating dropping the spare wheel well about 50mm to take the extra rim

Factory towbar was scavenged from a haplesss victim for $25 inc the ball & coupling
I know it's dorky, but I need it to keep other cars out my boot and to tow
more hapless victims home


Speedo came from an OZ built Celica ST164 auto, JDM cars are all 180km items, so it's pretty rare here
Note the gearbox only has two modes, ours has 3 - extra manual mode will "lock" any gear for towing, overtaking, hills etc


Swapping front ends


87 didn't have the vanity light so I relieved one from an 88 GTR


Zounds will be courtesy of this Panasonic CQ-C3403W mp3/wma with remote & bluetooth capability for $190 -
Imagine my sense of humour when I discovered the bluetooth attachment costs $300 :x
Be warned!


A glimpse of things to come

 

JDM Carb motors, motor variants

Most JDM cars have a bumper aerial to help parking, seems the Japanese can't park without it - go figure
Must be a JDM only optional extra, not offered here but most imports have them, there's a light in the top and NO you can't have any, coz the're dorky
JDM vans all have a mirror sticking out the back to see the back bumper as well ?!?
Grille badge - What does your grille say? Ours are all "Toyota" + "Twimcam16" or "GTfour"
Are you pre or post facelift? - They are different
I'll add them to my scrounging list and notify you, there are some grilles stashed in my garage somewhere

Mirrors -
Our AT160's (1600cc 4A-GE) had manual winders & mirrors, most brown or some grey interiors.

AT160 - heater controls are cable operated, manual winders, mirrors, 4 bolt rims, rear drums etc. Grey interior with plain seats.


Motor is a 4A-GE with C52 gearbox

I've heard of 4A-FE versions but yet to see one.... I think most are in Europe?

ST161's? had 2S or 4S carb motors, and it looks like a small few had 3SFE carb motors

2S carbed


3S carbed -(just bought one - head is the same but injector holes and mounts are blank, haven't compared the cams yet.

Edit: cams are crap, injected is better but nothing compared to 95- models

4S carbed - this one's in a Corona liftback - came in the Australian ST163 SX
The small bore and long stroke should make for a torqey motor with more reliable head gasket


All our ST's have electric mirrors inc the coupe (Corona here- There are no Celica coupe's bar the convertible)

Early ST's were available in brown, grey or navy interior, convertibles I've seen are all grey interior.


Never seen a red interior! must be USDM only

My 87 GT-R had a grey/black interior, only one here I've seen sofar, it's the same as those in the convertible


Black Leather


PLEASE NOTE
Only Selected versions of the "R" (3S-GE) had power fold mirrors and electric drivers seat
(some are also black or grey leather - incl the coupe)-
Std items on the GT4 - but they are now collectors items here

 

ST162 Twincam 16 grille badge

Found these in a box, I will have to fit them and check which it fits.
I suspect it's facelift


Original holder with owners and service manuals - only ones I've ever seen



Here's the new gauges vs the old....courtesy of an AT160
Gauges have to be swapped, the AT cluster will blow your 162/5 EFI fuse

 

JDM GT4 viscous gauges, 3S-GE gen1 methanol midget motor

Yeah Mafix - there's a turbo boost light on the rev counter of that 165 console. I thought it was standard
on all ST165's but yours all have a boost indicator instead of the diff gauge


As for revs, being a square motor (86 X 86mm) there is no reason why these motors can't live happily in the 8-9000 rpm range.
I'm sure a lot of race motors are doing a lot more than that. There are a bunch of these F2 midget motors here
with a fixed gear & no clutch, so need both low end torque and revs out to around 10 000. There's no sign of TVIS either?
These guys sound like self destruct mode at the end of the straights


The indicator in the console is fog lights I think?


I'm trying to re-wire the older silver heater back into my 87 (It had a semi-functioning grey 88 version fitted)
and all the BGB's, manuals I've found all seem to be for the 88 LHD version.
Any ideas where I can find manuals/wiring diagram for the 87 RHD JDM version?


These are becoming rare now, the LEDS in all of them are dying and it needs a special harness to work

 

Re: JDM tales of $1 Celica's and more from New Zealand....

Some drunk a/hole decided my car would look better without mirrors, it's a write-off


Wanted to see how a black roof would look. Some 3m black vinyl later and it looks like a convertible at night.
Decided I want to respray it silver (matching the gen7 rims & grey/black interior) with the roof blacked out
- unless someone has a better idea?


Now you see it, now you don't

 

Heater blower resistor & gen2 exhaust pics

My front 3 way speaker setup
6in subs in the door, 4in mids in the dash, tweeters on the mirrors, crossover is in the door panel


Repaired the blower resistor, anybody know what cement they use to hold the coils?
Alongside are some taken from Camry, st185, Corona - seems they have the later solid state types and not interchangable?


Note to self, cut out a set from another car and try it

Some new (old) JDM bits

JDM Gen2 3S-GE headers & collector

JDM Gen2 Centre exhaust section - No cat

 

ST162-R ST Australian model specs

Cruised the local scrapyards today...

Looks like I need to switch over to an ST182, the yards here are full of them!
Only found one 162 today, designated ST162-R.
R = non JDM right hand drive, I guess the ST162L's are the left hand version
Unfortunately most of the front end was gone, the spec is as follows:

ST162-R
3S-FE injected motor with all the O/Seas emissions crap - could this be an Aussie import?
5 speed manual
4 Bolt hubs - rear drums
Electric mirrors
Manual window winders
Black vinyl door trim - no upholstered inserts
Black carpets
Grey vinyl seats similar to AT160 (look like Golf GTI seats)
Steering wheel height adjustable only - no reach mechanism
External radio aerial in the left rear spoiler (ours are internal in the lid)
190km/h speedo, 6000 rpm rev counter?
Cable operated heater controls
No door assists - blanking plates
No drivers air vent - (vent below steering wheel)
Vinyl roof lining, vinyl sunshades
Front Seat belts have sliding rails for the bottom mounts - very unusual here
Distributor is the type including the coil - rare here
The P/S has an oil cooler!, the P/S fluid hoses extend to the front of the car
Spare wheel is the full wheel, not one of those skinny types, also has an unusual wheel cover for the full wheel - looks like I solved my full-spare problem

Back in the days when ST162's had real spare wheels


Unusual gauges? I think this is the rev counter Mafix is refering to

 

ST162.NET rear window stickers, Celica stickers

No, it's not euro or USDM - the indicators are the JDM type, speedo is 190 km/h etc.
I suspect an Aussie defected and brought the car with him (I have seen 2 white lightnings here)

I will try get back and take some pics.
I find it really strange that Japan has the worst pollution in the world and yet the JDM cars don't normally have emissions control.
The early 162's here all seem to have the 2S motor and the AT160's all have the 4AGE, 4 bolt hubs, vinyl roof lining, no trim inserts etc
This may just be a cheapo version using the AT160 body with a 3S-FE motor

Free advertising, the rest of the space is for rent

 

JDM ST16x instrument gauges,TEMS JDM Instrument cluster pics

The early NZDM cars are also 240km/h but I believe the factory closed around 1986.
Mafix tells me the USDM FE's are also 6000rpm units and that speedo is 190km/h, not the JDM legal 180km/h item.

Seen these before?

NZDM AT160 85-6 (4A-GE) at rear (Thames Plant)
JDM ST162/5 87-9 (3S-GE) in front


JDM ST165 88 (3S-GTE) locking diff version
Note the diff lock indicator, boost light activates at 5psi
Diff lock CANNOT be used for normal driving - it's stricktly for getting out of mud etc


ST162-R ST 86 (3S-FE) - Australian model


JDM ST162 88 Auto model has 3 settings on the rev counter, Economy - Power - Manual
and just to make things more interesting, some are fitted with TEMS,
Toyota Electronic Modulated Suspension
TEMS manual


TEMS auto, all JDM's are ECT-S (sport), normal, manual, economy settings

This kit is sometimes available on Australian ebay for $80 - requires extinct AT160 speedo or ADM speedo


TRD aftermarket gauges are available, prices are ridiculous though


BTW:
Those OZ rear speaker grilles have slots and don't fit my 87 with livesound?
The black boot carpet is now spare as I thought mine was grey

 

Re: JDM tales of $1 Celica's and more from New Zealand....

Thanks for clearing that up, I had my suspicions

I'll look out for sunroofs for you but I think those things are born with rustworms, even the good ones look bad underneath.
I poured rust sealer into all the channels on mine as well.
The ST182 sunroof panel looks the same - anyone tried it? Tip: The ST182 has a nicer grey cover on the inside
with a big vent and it clips right in, careful removing them as the clips can be tricky.

Lumbar control? what seat have you got. The AT type and convertible/Corona come with a lever on the side.
The rest either don't have or are electric, those electric seatbacks weigh a ton -
it's a really easy conversion though, provided you get the switch as well.

The gen2 is being stripped down, I like the cams and valves but prefer the look of the Gen1 head,
I think some serious machining is going to take place there as the intake I want to use is actually from an FE

 

P/S cooler pipes, ST162-R ST pics,

I managed to get back to the yard today
Please forgive the pics, it was pelting with rain and cameras are banned
I had to take these from inside my jacket!

Here is the strange (to me) P/Steering cooler pipes - maybe it's normal on your cars.


The car is an Aussie import and labelled as an ST162-R ST (ST=GT?)


Side pic - this body would put mine to shame. Nemesis now has the rear light vents from this car.


Whats left of the interior, sorry no lumbar control


It really makes me sad seeing cars in this condition (no dents, rust etc) being ripped apart and then crushed. I thought hard about buying this body but nowhere to put it....

 

Toyota Corona ST162 pics, Seat conversions

The truth is I haven't seen one in the cheap yards for the last 6 months.

2 years ago they were everywhere with good examples selling for $250-$500, I don't think people here realized what they were. I'd love to see a Celica with those lights but that means using the bonnet which is V shaped, the grille and bumper are V shaped as well.
I don't like that honeycomb grille either



I have the Corona solid front spoiler mounted on my project car and even that had to be re-drilled (testing white & blue park LED's - the blue is waaay too strong at night & asking for unwanted attention of the enforcement kind)



On the left is the ex-Corona seat, on the right is my new ST182 hybrid seat/s, I have converted 2 electric seats for the project car but still figuring where to put the extra switch?
The black/grey trim & rear seat come from the Corona (Sedan) and is similar to that found in the JDM Celica convertibles. I want to spray it silver, so the interior should blend in?



Which means I now have these spare



I was thinking of making these 4 into bar seats - nuts?
ps. Believe it or not, this car actually came fitted with grey ST202 seats, but they had a pink/blue fleck and had to go.

 

Celica 3S-GE vs FE motor differences

Started stripping my spare FE and Gen2 GE motors

My main concerns at this time are the crank and rods
edit: moved findings/pics back from Diagnosis as it's now lost in the system

Cylinder block
Basically the same with minor changes for the oil cooler/filter attachment.
The GTE block has oil squirters and an extra channel for the cooler/turbo.
Some concern is the way water flows across the motor getting hotter and hotter as it moves from cylinder to cylinder.
Unlike many motors the water is not free to move around and the water jackets in the heads are not inter-connected.
I have read about modding the block to feed cold water directly into the #3 cylinder jacket as it is well known that cyl 3 & 4 have exaggerated wear and tear.

Crankshaft
Radically different - The GE versions have an aerodynamic shape and fillets on the journals. The FE looks like a conventional crank and rather disturbingly has 2 grooves on each big end journal where there should be fillets, which is probably where a break would occur.
The FE crank is also more prone to lose the flywheel as there are only 6 bolts whereas the GE/GTE has 8 larger bolts.
Both types are not cross-drilled (there is only one hole in the big end journal) because of the oil fed through holes in the con rods.
Oil flow from main journal pickup to big end delivery is nowhere near ideal on either type crank and explained in depth on the Crower crank page (straight shot oiling)
http://www.crower.com/pdf/173-188.pdf

Anybody tried other rods, bearings, crank mods



For those wanting to use the 4S or 5S longer stroke crank:
1) Get the journals welded up & re-cut (eliminate those grooves), also gives you you the option to stroke it even more!
2) Cross drill the big end journal holes & groove the holes. (Not for std bearings/rods)
3) Get it balanced
4) Use ARP etc, High quality flywheel bolts
5) Make sure the piston/valve clearances are correct
6)Try to get the later 8 bolt version

Pistons
The decks (tops) are the same height but the FE pistons are dished and shaped to suit the FE combustion chambers. GE gen1 pistons are flat, GTE pistons are dished and gen2/3 are raised, which gives you a wide choice concerning compression choices.
The crank, rods and flywheel will be the weakest parts in the FE block. Also the FE pistons are press-fit, GE pistons are not, you will have to "convert" your small ends if swapping pistons - at a cost.

If you're after more power in a GE, it's better to fit higher compression gen2/3 GE pistons & rods which are designed to work with the GE head
For more grunt in your FE, at this stage I'm inclined to suggest the 5S crank/rods/pistons.

Gen1, Gen2, FE piston comparison


A better gen1 & 2 pic, 9-1 CR vs 9,5-1 CR


Gen3 piston has an even bigger dome and 10-1 CR


Rings
The rings are NOT interchangable, FE rings are wider (more friction - less power) and designed to last longer than GE rings

Con Rods
The con rods in these motors are a concern - they use an idea first used by Suzuki in their TSCC superbike motors which has long since been replaced by better technology. There is a hole in the bearing shell and in the con rod which sprays oil under the piston to help cool it, sounds OK - but in practice the rods are moving at high speed and there is already an "oil storm" or "cloud" inside the crankcase. The oil hole sprays oil at the inlet side of the piston which is the coolest part of the piston and lastly, these holes "rob" the big end bearings of oil just before they need it most. The result is exaggerated bearing wear at the point of most stress (TDC), and ends up looking like this.....



And these came from a good gen2 N/A motor after 140 000km?
It's clear to see why these motors are prone to throwing con rods at the radiator!
An engine suffering from detonation shows similar wear patterns.
The solution is to use rods without holes, and the longer the rod, the better.
It seems the guys using Carillo, Crower rods etc have solved this problem without even realizing.

I'm looking at Mitsi 4G63 and Toyota 4Y big end shells as a possible solution,
Another is 2JZ rods & K24 pistons

Later engines have nozzles in the block squirting oil at the hot side of the piston and they don't interfere with the supply of oil to the big end bearings.

Spot the different rods - FE rods are not an option for power or revs as they are very skinny. Note the GE rods also have the beams stamped which changes the molecular structure and makes them even stronger.(same principle as shot peening)



While Gen1/2 are identical, Gen3 rods are an improvement but still no comparison to
aftermarket rods, these are Gen3 GTE items


Here's the reason I cringe every time I see topics like "Adding a turbo to my FE", "more power from my FE" etc
Besides the anorexic looking FE rods (pictured earlier) - take a look at the difference in rod bolt size/pitch!
No wonder FE's are famous for throwing rods


Cylinder head
The FE head is to the GE as the 4A FE is to the 4A GE, it is an "economy" head designed to deliver a balance of power and fuel efficiency. The GE head was taken directly from Superbike engine design in the early 80's with a "Pentroof" chamber design (stolen from Honda).
The FE head has the valves recessed about 5mm and a large portion of each valve is shrouded by the wall around it - not ideal for good flow.
Yamaha was involved in the design and production of the GE head but I'm not sure what the arrangment was.

GE vs FE head - bigger valves at a steeper angle and less room, wilder cams (not interchangable), bigger intake ports. GE gen1 and 2 parts are not interchangable but gen2 and gen3 are.



Before you shout "Foul, that's not Gen1!" - here's the gen1 GE head
Can you see any differences? - They are all in the ports (bigger), cams and valvetrain (heavier)



For comparison, here's the This ST215 GTE (Caldina) head - note the strange way the cam lobes are relieved
on the backs to promote bucket/shim lubrication, reduce weight etc - very interesting!


The head chambers look familiar but there are more steam holes and tunnels between water passages


Pistons are supa-low CR items, lower than Gen1/2 GTE


The Gen4 Beams head

Water jacketing is near identical to the race-only 503E head


All these motors have a problem blowing head gaskets when pushed hard, the bigger the bore the worse problem becomes. The only way around this is to replace the head bolts with studs (-gives better clamping, accurate torquing and wider load spread) and use the best head gasket (steel) your money can buy.
Be sure to have your head checked for hardness and get it skimmed if it is not straight, fail to do so and the next blown gasket is your own fault.

Exhaust headers
Some good news, you can swap headers between all Gen1-2 3SG/F heads provided the starter clears the exhaust header pipes on gen1 GE gearboxes.
Gen 3- heads use different headers and the spacing between cyl 3-4 is different to gen 1/2.

Crank Pulley
Has anyone swapped GE/FE heads and had strange timing problems?
FE crank pulley has an extra tooth, so I guess big problems if you use the wrong one


Early GE v1 crank pulley is lighter than later versions, later versions have more meat around the extractor holes


Flywheel bolts
Smaller version is 86-89 FE/GE/GTE, bigger version is 90- GE/GTE
The crank flange is also bigger and the seal and housing are bigger too