JDM TEMS, Corona 162 - 2 & 4 door and many more jdm oddities

Celica manual to Automatic conversion

I wouldn't say neglected, it's in way better cond than most, new exhaust system, tyres etc.
Gearbox feels like new, belonged to a lady for 15yrs and then a guy in his mid 20's

He (Dave) spent tons on it, but the quality of workmanship in this country suxx -
I learned a long time ago it's better to do it yourself and and make a f/up, than pay for someone else to fuk it for you.
At least if you learn from your mistakes you improve over time.
I have an intense distrust of mechanics and it is reinforced every time one of them screws a friends car .... some of those guys are dangerous!

The wheel studs are a disaster waiting to happen, stripping high tensile studs is one thing but replacing them with threaded rod is something else. :banghead
Looks like the drivers door was swapped at some stage.
Did I mention the rear window & boot leak? :sad5
Luckily all the spares are here, it's all a matter of time

Manual to Auto conversion
You'd need pedals, computer?, cables, lever and the rev counter, box (S or E)
The shafts shown are FE (Tulip) type, not neccessary to swap, but if you do the GE (CV) type are a better bet.

Here's the bits needed to convert from Auto to manual


Group hug - 4pm in the afternoon. Real English weather here in winter! -
Australian weather the rest of the year.
I'll be using the gen7 rims from now on, somehow they look like they were made for the 16x

 

ST202 front brakes in a ST162, ST182 silencer on ST162

I changed the rear silencer on my auto DD with one from a ST182 - looks sexual?
You will need to swap over the removable rear mount as well as the hanger sticks up further.
Truth be told - I was out of cash and the ST182's looked like it could fit, $15 fix!
Damn, it's fun finding other other stuff to play with!


Some may know I'v started experimenting with 202 brakes as a cheaper upgrade
I'd like Brembo's, Willwood's, AP's, Alcon etc, but we live in the real world

ST185 has 2 types of brakes - early has ST165 brakes and later has a bigger 285mm disk with single pot caliper.
Both require the hub to be swapped as well


The comparison - ST202 disk is 5mm wider and caliper is a monster.
Diameter is the same on 162, 182/185 & 202!


Here's the std setup, note - I use 182 pads already, cars been standing for 6 months


The 202 brakes fitted - you will need a 5mm spacer UNDER the disk & 15in wheels min
Or you could just use the Caliper & 15in rims
Easiest way is to fit the 202 hub complete, you must keep the ST162 bottom balljoint


Now you can see just how big that caliper is!

ST182 disks and calipers are a waste of time & money
a) The disks are the same
b) The calipers are modded to take slightly bigger pads, but you can easily trim the tabs to fit your 162 calipers like this:

 

ST162 Brake upgrades, Camry master cylinder

Sprey - To be honest I've yet to see a Vehicross here in Auckland
Alwayzsidewayz - Here's us racing tar oval against the poms, Deane Wood etc on tar in South Africa.
I think EU and SA are the only places that run 400m tar Oval?.
Race was won by Corry Samons in the black Starlet with Vauxhall BTCC power,
sorry about the vid quality - you gotta turn up the volume on this one, the 13b rotaries often break cranks at 12 000rpm, 12a crank is stronger but less power
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FiAgdsGLups
Things can go seriously wrong, very quickly - Vickus Cronje in the gold rotary Pug and my mate Tollie Goosen (Green Charade) swapping paint -
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auBVvmiraBM&NR=1

Brake upgrades
The brakes are one of those things, you can just see it's going to be awesome.
I fitted them onto the spare car as the wheel studs on the TEMS car are knackered,
when I have time I'll be swapping all the hubs and banshee motor over into the TEMS car.
My Stock G1 motor sounds like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BstYiwZQAA
Compared to a stock G4 beams motor http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-rLD9qa30qs&feature=related
I'll be adding the G2 headers pictured earlier as well, and now have a spare set if anyone wants.

The master cylinder is another cheap upgrade I have up my sleeve -
I stole one from a dead Camry V6 (looks like 205 brakes?) and it's way bigger than stock for $50

 

Hardcore Celica car porn

No ABS on JDM cars! - Never liked the juddering leg syndrome under braking anyway, you loose "feel"?
Great for noobs on the road tho

Turning in under braking is a no-no, I chucked it a few times doing that at Coppice
(a m/fukr double blind corner, for you others) Get your marker wrong and it swaps round every time

Left foot brakers tend to "kick" the pedal, so I'm not surprised you busted a few seals.

 

ST 205 brake pics

These ST205 items came up on auction here today


@$500 - I don't think so! Plus you'd have to modify them or find 205 hubsfor them to fit

Started stripping the spares car - see, the cyber fuzz can't get me. I have steel doors!


That arse looks kinda funky without the bumper

 

ST162 Rust areas and prevention tips

LOL - Rich, phfft - nice to see somebody on here- phfft - has a sense of humour! phfft
Thanks for the feedback, I presumed (wrongly) being derived from a FWD, the GT4 would
have similar traits.

:shock: Whaaat, I paid $350 for a minty car, $100 for 202 brakes!!! :shock:

Rust in NZ
Not as much of an issue as it seems to be overseas - The JDM's must have been treated to
last this long and still be in good condition.
I'm (Most NZ'ds) less than 1 km from the Pacific and about 40km from the Tasman Ocean, but surrounded by bays and lakes.

Yeah - Shit scenery, nice people :|

Common problems are the area above the taillights/boot sill and water leaking through the taillights if they aren't sealed properly (most aren't).
The front fenders behind the wheels is another trouble area.
The metal side strips below the doors on the TEMS car are stuffed and will need replacing, I have not seen this before.

I treated the boot area roughly 3yrs ago - nothings changed since
Note how the rust has turned black and died, ready for sanding and painting



When I changed the rear silencer last weekend, I noticed the lower rear control arms looked terrible on all 3 cars. A quick sand revealed it was just surface rust and has now been treated.
I'll be keeping an eye on them from now on. Any further rust here will mean an instant MOT failure

The sunroof is a disaster area worldwide it seems, my advice to any new owner would be to remove and treat it before it gets worse.

This is a good sample???


Also the black strip below the windscreen tends to suffer badly from rust -
It's a write-off on the TEMS car as well, but luckily I have a spare I treated years ago.
The exhaust heat shields are another major rust area

I'm stripping down my interiors for the swap and will be treating the complete interiors as well as drilling some holes into the channels and treating them with killer.
Later I'll spray Fish oil in the doors, roof, boot, channels, screens, fenders etc.(My secret weapon? - Fish don't rust!)

A mild case of rust under the screen


We do not get salt on the roads, black ice etc here, but I imagine it is common in the alpine areas.
When I was stationed in Wavis Bay, SWA, we had to paint our entire cars with iron oxide if we wanted them to last more than 2 years!!!

Any rust related info is most welcome!

Tips for new owners
Remove and re-silicone around the taillights
Clean around/under the boot seal and check for rust, treat and fill/paint. Or if terminal - weld in new strips, I find brazing easier than arc.
Remove the sunroof and treat for rust - esp inside those channels
Remove the Black lower windscreen strip and treat for rust, repaint
Remove the mudflaps & side strips, treat for rust as well as clean out the wheel wells and treat for rust
(crap tends to build up behind the mudflaps)
Check around the front and rear screens and sand/treat rust spots before they grow
Check your rear silencer, heat shield and rear control arms and treat for rust
Remove the small rubber plugs behind the rear mudflaps, those things are supposed to drain the water, not dam it up.
Rustproof those channels below the jack and around the inside of the rear wheel arches from inside the car

 

3S-GE Gen2 headers on 3S-GE gen1

I've been going crazy here, weather has been freezing & wet
1) Stripping the spares car - 70%
2) Pulled the TEMS motor - swapped with spares car
3) Repairing the FE for MOT test - 95%

TEMS car
Looking sexy with the gen7 rims fitted
This car is freaky, I'm starting to think there's more than 1 type of Gen1 GE motor!!!! Also after 22yrs and 200K/Km - IT HAS NEVER BEEN OPENED,
Clutch etc is also still original and was good for another few years,
I'm stripping threads left/right trying to undo stuff, the gearbox feels like new after 200K/km AND running on ATF!
Shows the difference when a motor isn't gunned all day!





Test fitted the Gen2 headers, no clearance problems with Gen1 starter, filter, alt etc
O2 sensor will sit below P/steering pump




Spares car is looking sadder by the day, motor is now in the TEMS car

 

Weird cam timing?

Need some advice

"Normal" practice is to advance the inlet and retard the exhaust.
This motor sounds like this - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BstYiwZQAA
but the cams are advanced around 15 degrees!?

It wants to eat small animals and children if not bolted down -Leave it, change it?

 

3S-GE gen1 motor differences? 2 types of motor?

TEMS car oddities
The more I look, the more I'm finding differences between the TEMS and the "normal" GT-R,
Which suggests there may be more than 1 type of Gen1 GE motor?

There is a ver1 motor, probably sold around 85-86 and they are cropping up worldwide

Throttle linkage - Direct (v2) or indirect (v1)?


Exhaust collector - 1 (v1) or 2 (v2) pipes Sir?


Sump - Gen2, FE etc doesn't have the 2 extra bolts (v1),



Alternator Bracket - Looks like the 1st one (v2) is a stronger version with provision for a
brace to the engine mount?


There is also an extra brace between the block and gearbox I haven't seen before?

(edit) - it's a stock part, prbably deleted on my other cars due to it's weight?

The conrods on the ver1 are heavier without the cutout around the base

The crank is 8 bolt and not 6 bolt as rumoured on many sites

V1 alternator guard


The v1 #24 sump plug - prone to cracking and leaking


The inlet manifold appears to have only 4 pipes from the front and the vaccum piping at the rear is different.


There appears to be a different set of headers too, this cover comes from an OZ imported 3S-GE


There are 3 types of rocker covers
Silver - Ver1
Gold - Normal ver2
Dark gold - ver2 "GT" High compression version, sold worldwide (rear lid says 2.0 16V)


This early pic appears to have parts from both motors plus a fanbelt tensioner similar to the MR2

 

3S-GE throttle bodies, another TEMS found in New Zealand...

I was looking at the ACl part list today
They have different categories for motors #0-90xxxx and 90xxxx-
so Mafix may be right, maybe the first 0 series are 6 bolt cranks, mine are both 90 series

I can't find any major differences between these TB's, apart for the hose
with the filter attached - what's it for?



Anybody got a pic of a 3Y or 4Y conrod bearing shells? I'm trying to see what it looks like?

A lady contacted me for spares this week, I asked her for a pic of her car -
I'ts a rare two-tone, silver, Auto, FE, 89 model


Imagine my surprise when I saw that sticker in the window - My car has a sister!

 

ST162 Throttle bodies

Well Mafix, curiosity got the better of me and I had to "play" with them

The tube goes to a diaphragm and the diaphragm's function is to slow down the actuator
just before it reaches the closed position. The TEMS doesn't have it and to be honest I
didn't notice any difference coming down to idle.

My FE has the same diaphragm and sometimes in traffic I have to tap the throttle cuz
the damn thing won't idle below 1500rpm - annoying coz it's an auto.
The damn diaphragm is stopping it from closing properly! The filter is supposed to keep dirt out
but I suspect the diaphragms (or TB's?) are getting sticky anyway.