My wiring plans have been put on hold and how! Last week I had the interview and test and this week have started a pre-apprenticeship in Light Vehicle Mechanics. Put Uni on hold, it wasn't going well, to try something I really enjoy, so far so good! Waiting to swoop on the White Lightening being wrecked that I saw last week, long term plan is 2 running road legal cars, hope to turn my old mate into a racer and have a nice white lightening day car. All in good time
Steve it's the same old place but a new white lightening i picked up yesterday. now for work to begin! It has a near perfect body and needs an engine. Matt cheers the lightening will end up a daily car and mine... We'll have a good time til retirement Maybe take it to the track later this year. This week will be getting an engine stand and see if the engines rebuildable - has a bhg
Sweet! I'd like to see closeups of the grafix so I can perfect the design How much was it? If I were you I'd strip it and rustproof/respray 1st, find a BEAMS to go in there and stop dickin around, swap over all the good stuff, etc, etc
White Lightening Stig I will get photos for you very soon when i've washed the car! I plan to take it apart and fix the body before I deal with driveline stuff. There isn't too much to do, and it'll inspire me to fix my car's body too $850 Most of the car is in decent to great shape - possible front end damage - front of radiator support is a bit bent. Nothing major i hope. Spare front spoiler with original radiator and gearbox under trays Perfect black steering wheel Working cup holders 5 newish tyres etc Engine - many options - beams, 2nd gen 3sgte, rebuild this 3sge for now... I'm not in a hurry so i'll keep saving and reading... Gearbox - I have a spare s54 just needs a clean up and appropriate clutch, shafts for whatever engine.
87 Wheel Alignment I had an alignment today, the car had been pulling left and scrubbing the front right wheel when turning left hard. I'm going for a proper drive later today but so far it feels better but still drifts left. They made the rear toe nearly neutral, and the front toe neutral. They tell me I need to correct the castor on the front left wheel, with an offset bush, $80 for the pair. I don't mind the price but I only need the back left control arm bush and have 1 year old polys in there now. Any advice is very welcome Cheers Andrew
Looking at Nolothane and Super Pro for Castor correcting bushes Nolothane adds +0.5 deg castor, only need one side (passenger/left) But would this be enough? http://www.nolathane.com.au/product_detail.php?part_number=45382 Super Pro have a few choices - but don't say the amount of change SPF1364K PS decreased DS standard SPF1365K PS increased DS decreased Even better Toyhead Auto Front Control Arm Caster Adjusting Kit (#342) adds plus 1.0 degrees. $57.61 Would adjustable camber tops be useful for castor? At some point i'll be getting new ones for either car and might as well get adjustable for not much more money, last i checked Cheers Andrew
i think it's because at the moment there's no adjustment for the front left to bring it within spec(match the right side) look at his alignment sheet. there's a diff in castor angle of 0.67deg
This normally happens when the RHS bushes collapse due to oil contamination Your chart is disturbing - Left rear camber is f/d and they didn't correct it? - I had this too and had to slot one of my LHS rear bolt holes Your LHS front castor the RHS camber is way out of spec I know from experience that camber can have a major effect on the steering and the angles you're running will cause the LHS to pull the car over to the left plus the rear LHS is trying to push the car to the right at the rear. Get the camber angles correct, it will have an effect on the castor readings too because the hub angles changes with camber This isn't good for your tyres and I see your LHS rear and RHS front wearing out
Hi thanks for the good replies, I'm keen to get it back to spec just no money at the moment, it handles fine but not perfect as I hoped after alignment. I'm wondering what changes I really should make considering it's lowered about 1.5 in. I have 6 spare good tyres so no worries for the moment
keeping an engine alive. hopefully So I'm finally taking everyones good advice and getting my engine along til I can rebuild it. I took off the top timing cover to have a look. The belt is dry - i'm losing oil so that's good it's not seals - It's the compression in cyl 2, i did wet and dry tests dry wet 1 190 210 2 160 195 3 190 210 4 195 215 It's been whirring from the front for a while now... a long while. When the engine is running, the intake cam gear wobbles a fair bit. When the engine is off, it has no play. The bolt is too tight for a big spanner. If I can get the tension off the belt, It will help me find out. I loosened the tensioner bolt, and tried to move it to the left, extending the spring. I'm pretty sure that's the right direction to loosen it. It won't move either direction, but i couldn't get the engine mount off to get more space. I'll do it again with a frame/hoist thing. Or a flat surface. Both would be nice See what you thinks Cheers [video]http://s402.photobucket.com/albums/pp106/trelmcgee/?action=view&current=3sge_intakecamwobbling.mp4[/video] [video]http://s402.photobucket.com/albums/pp106/trelmcgee/?action=view&current=3sge_intakecamwobbling1.mp4[/video]
my trick used to be engine crane on the front of the motor, undo the two bolts under the engine mount, the undo the bolt through the centre of the engine mount and pull the mount out. then you have a whole bunch of room between the strut tower and the engine to do shit. i had a timing belt change down under 30 mins easy, when you realease the tension off the pully youu need to slid the belt off the tensioner and both cam wheels ast the same time. it looks as if the pully is actually bent, i had a spare motor that had a bent wheel it came out of a car that was in an accident, thew wheel was still in one peice and was far from braking but it got bent from the of the strut tower pushing it agains it after the accident had happened
Thanks man that sounds about right. Cheers for the how-to, I wasn't sure what exactly held the mount to the block. I don't have a crane but might be able to use a frame from work to hold the engine up, or a jack and wood... I once used a forklift to get a engine out of a car, i miss it. If I need to change the cam gear, does it need locktite or what? What's the best way to stop the cam moving when i tighten the bolt? I might have one on the spare head.. I'll look tomorrow. Or i need to find one Hopefully it's not that bad :fingersx
Hi Andrew I think you have got your self a good bargain there.Hopping to see good progress with this one keep it standard.For the cam gear yes it does take locktite on the bolt to loosen it you see that the cam's on the inside if you remove the cam cover's as a place to hold it with a spanner 22mm or 24mm if I can remember. Read on how to replace the cam belt and timing that Kevin (stig) wrote on this site it's detailed 100% so you won't go wrong.
408000km service I put the car on the hoist at work and did some good stuff today. Need an alignment and i guess i'll go for a new castor bush, but it wanders a lot less than it did Oil and filter - free filter good skills Ball joints - both were torn and 1 seized Tie rod ends - one torn Rack boots - both torn Valve cover gaskets - intake side leaking a bit Lifted the front of the engine/gearbox up off the crossmember - doesn't clunk on takeoff. Cheap fix! Cleaned and pressure washed everything about 20 times to find the oil leaks later this week cyl 1 and 2 Intake lobes and cyl 3 exhaust lobes look cleaner than the rest, maybe they're not getting enough oil? missing crossmember bolt More pics here http://s402.beta.photobucket.com/user/trelmcgee/library/408000km hoist action Needs Intake cam gear - spare on the white lightening crossmember bushings crossmember bolt - spare on white lightening but need a replacement change back from atf to 80w90 rust kill Big adventure driving trip