ST162-7254182 "Dirty Deeds" Edited

Re: ST162-7254182

I hope to inspire everyone else here to put as much care into their 4th gens so we
allways have a few around :mrgreen:

 

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The color along the top of the dash should give you a good idea of the original red
that toyota painted the celica before 20+ years of sun fading.

 

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Its not sun faded thats why I said

 

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Well I thought I'd make the car feel a bit better about itself so I gave it a bit of a facelift







While doing all that cleaning I kept seeing this nasty old clutch line so I decided that
while it was pretty easy to get at I'd pull it and bend up a new one.


Then I remembered I had a braided stainless steel flexible clutch line so I thought
I may as well replace the old rubber one at the same time. So now I've got a couple
more brackets to media blast.


Finally another bracket in this case it holds the heater hose control valve in the engine bay.
I'm glad I did this one cause I discovered that the valve itself was broken which is something
that would have been very hard to discover if I hadn't taken the whole assembly apart.

 

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In order to replace the flexible clutch line and since the clutch master cylinder was allready loose due to the
removal of the clutch pedal I decided to remove the whole system and found a bunch of gunk in the bottom of
the clutch reservoir. This is why I advocate periodic bleeding of your clutch and brake systems.


Nice and happy again.


I found my shifter cable bushings their from the same place as the braided stainless steel clutch line so I'll
plug http://www.speed-source.net since we need to support companies that actually make parts for our Celica's


First off you need to remove 2 little clips to slide the cables and old bushings off the transmission levers


Then you need to remove the C clips that fasten the calbes to the tranny


I was going to remove the cables and media blast the ends but after getting this far I found out the rubber
grommet that holds the cables in the firewall has a metal plate around it that is held in place by 2 bolts and
one of these bolts has about 3mm clearance from the powersteering rack so the cables stay in and I'll media
blast the ends when I move the car outside to media blast the interior.


Off course the rubber bushings have a brass sleeve which has rusted onto the shift levers. So I need to remove
this bar to get the bushing off. Of course this one remaining bolt is stuck under the tranny mount


Well the tranny mount had seen better days and the bracket under it wasn't any better so of to
the media blaster for them


This shifter arm has its brass bushing sleeve still rusted to it but I can't get the arm off the tranny
even after loosening the nut and heating the pin to melting point and beating on the end of the nut
with a hammer. I tried vice grips on the brass sleeve but it just filed off brass shavings so I took the
grinder to it and ground off the brass sleeve.


So another pile of media blasted parts.


Gotta stop looking for rusty bits I got enough to do inside the car so I got started cutting out rusty bits.
First pic is the drivers side rear seat floor, still lots of little rust holes but I'm going to do the major patches
first and then fix the little holes


Passenger side front floor


Passenger side rear floor

 

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Has to be done!!!!!! Its ashame people didn't treat these cars with a little more respect. True sports cars
in Canada are driven in the summer and stored in the winter. To bad a few people didn't do that with their
Celica's. I say tha but I do know of 1 coupe in Ottawa that wasn't winter driven. What a difference that
makes.

As I posted earlier this is the oil pressure guage on my 88gts. This part would have failed due to rust
eventually.


Wheel bearing seals, rear diff seals for All Tracs.....cheap $5 parts fail resulting in repair bills of hundreds of
dollars because the cheap part wasn't adequetly rust proofed.Halfshafts, brake lines, fuel lines, calipers,
emergency brake cables are either bare steel or bare steel with an oil coating. Some pretty critical parts
which mainly fail due to rust.

So my only option is to remove as much rust as possible, neutralize any remaining rust and then put a
protective coating over the part, and then perform routine maintenance to ensure the protective coating
hasn't been compromised. Cars can be driven in the winter and last a long time as long as you give them a
good checkup each spring but nobody is doing that to their cars. Dealers and other repair facilities do
mechanical repairs or send it out to a body shop for cosmetic repairs and I'd say 99% of the body shops do a
crap job but then again if your going to do body work properly then you have to find someone that can work
with lead. But nobody really cares about a little bit of rust here and there and by the time its noticable the
car is 10 or 15 years old and its not worth the cost to repair.

Unless of course your me and your stupid enough to try and fix this rust bucket, but if done properly and then
maintained afterwards I'm planning its 40th birthday party.

More pics of pieces that have or are being restored.

 

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http://www.speed-source.net/

http://www.speed-source.net/products/clutch_hoses.htm

 

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Can't absolutely guarantee it yet because I haven't installed it yet in my ST162 but the old rubber
hose under the new clutch line is a ST162 hose. They are the same length and appear to have the
same size holes in the ends so I'm 99% sure

 

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Well I finally got the rest of the sound deadening material removed.


To get the last little bits I used varsol and a rag. I wanted to get rid of all the sound
deadening so I can sand blast and paint the interior


I taped bags over wiring harnesses and just used tape on individual plugs




Drivers side rear strut tower


Drivers side rear fender well


Drivers side rocker panel


Drivers side underneath


Looks pretty much the same on the passenger side. Guess I need a new gas line. It broke
when I was removing the gas & brake lines from the frame so I can cut and weld the floor.