ST162-7254182 "Dirty Deeds" Edited

Re: ST162-7254182

Yeah I know I apologize....... the guy I get contracts from called with an emergency today so I had to quite working on the car at 3:30 INSTEAD OF 10:00.

But EMERGENCIES = $

And I like $

 

Re: ST162-7254182

New toy its a needle scaler which goes on an air hammer and pulverizes
rust scale. Unfortunately I work all weekend so I'll have to wait till monday to try it out.
Sandblasting is great and would eventually get rid of heavy rust scale but this will chip
away the heavily rusted areas and leave just the surface rust for sandblasting. Should
be a big help and reduce the overall time needed to back to bare metal.

 

Re: ST162-7254182

Think of a jack hammer like they use in construction to break up ashphelt and concrete.
This is like a mini jack hammer except it has about 20 little round tips instead of 1 like a
jack hammer.

Normally an air hammer has a chisel or a pick on the end of it


A needle scaler just adds many more spots that will hit the rust with each impact.

 

Re: ST162-7254182

Not if you do it yourself I wouldn't want to have to sandblast 4 rims with powdercoating. It
would take forever. I'd check with powdercoaters in your area, they should be able to strip old
powdercoating off.Their are several methods, it can be burned or baked off, ground/sand blaster
or hot or cold chemical stripping. It may depend on what sort of finish you want to have left on
the rims after they have been stripped.

Found a box of old GTS parts I had previously restored

 

Re: ST162-7254182

I got all the sound deadening material out of the passenger compartment. Just got the hatch left to do.

Unfortunatly cars are just not designed to last for more that 10-15 years in a salt filled environment. Most
of the seams are spot welded and the inside of the seam is filled with seam sealer(caulking). This is a horrible
way of joining to pieces of metal. In most cases you have two 1/2" wide seams that are spot welded every 4
or 5 inches. All the remaining metal in this 1/2" seam that is not spot welded is unprotected and very vulnerable
to rust. Heres a crude picture to ilustrate a spot weld. The easiest place to find this weld is on the bottom of
your rocker panel all the way from the rear of your front fender to the front of your rear fender. In the picture
the green area is unprotected metal which is going to get butted up against another piece of unprotected metal
and then spot welded. Once water/salt gets into this seam you got problems. If you really wanted to make a car
properly then all seams would need to be fully welded forming a permanent seal.


So my new project is to get rid of as much seam sealer as possible.


A couple of shots of the drivers side rear fender/strut tower




Ultimately I'm going to weld the inside of each of the lower seams, so i'll give you 2 pictures one
showing the state now and the second with a red line drawn to indicate the seam I'm going to weld.
The same seams will be welded on the passenger side.

Seam welding around the rear fender




Seam welding around the rear seat side




Seam welding around the front seat side, their is also a seam along the front of the floor pan




Seam welding under the rear seat.




The same spot after I use the kneedle scaler, this tool will probably save me about 75% of the
time I would have had to spend sand blasting if I didn;t use the kneedle scaler


Heres another before and after shot of a spot I used the kneedle scaler on




More goodies I had previously restored. Some are for the All Trac but some will probably fit the GTS


Restored clutch, brake and gas pedal assemblies


The bar under the dash

 

Re: ST162-7254182

Just do a search online for powder coating removal, heres a couple of links

Removing Cured Powder Coatings

Solvent Kleene Non-Hazardous Degreasing and Paint Stripping Products

 

Re: ST162-7254182

Well my wifes on night shifts at the hospital so I can't make to much noise in the garage
so I moved to the engine bay to get rid of the air conditioning.


Now that the air conditioning has been disconnected time to remove the heater hoses


Now that the air con & heater have been disconnected its time to remove the rest of the
stuff from under the dash




SOAB they had to put one nut that holds the clutch pedal in the engine bay where almost
no tools can get to. Luckilly I have an air ratchet where I can just push a lever and it turns


Here you can see the offending stud that has a nut in the engine bay on the other side of the
clutch it has a nut in the cabin?? go figure. Why couldn't they have put 2 nuts inside the cabin like the 4
bolts to the right for the brake pedal.


Since I was in the engine compartment I thought I'd grab a bunch of rusty old parts


Parts after media blasting


My oil pressure sensor. Can you say RUST KILLS


Picked up another bottle of rust preventer


Got the rust check rust converter applied to the parts and their now drying in my custom
paint baking booth