ST162-7254182 "Dirty Deeds" Edited

:toetap05

Your just not looking hard enough :banghead

I try to replace 10 & 12 mm nuts & bolts with stainless steel. Now with the tranny
since I don't have to remove those bolts I'll just remove the rust and paint them.
Theirs probably about $20 worth of 12mm stainless steel bolts on it. 14mm and bigger
I don't convert because your looking at $1-2 a bolt or more and I can't get them
without special order and then I have to buy a whole box and those bolts never rust
and break when you try to remove them so at best they'll just get their heads painted.

10mm timing belt cover bolts


10mm oil pan bolts


10mm water inlet & heater bypass pipe nuts


10mm valve cover bolts


12mm heater bypass pipe bolt


And I don't have to polish them because they come that way

 

Now that the tranny is cleaned I'll document all the markings on it.
3-1 & 12




This one may be an E but it more likely an F


This one perhaps a 19 or 10


A couple more markings on the top


I don't know what happened in its previous life to get it so mangled but the number looks like
705065


and this one TVO


I'll plug one of my favorite auto parts stores, I needed a plug to block of a coolant
line that used to go to the turbo so I got these rubber caps and 3 sizes of fuel line
clamps


That green cap I got at another store and does no more than block of the end so it doesn't
fill with dirt


This is the other store I got the green cap from and its where I get my stainless steel
nuts and bolts. Today I got a bonus big nut & bolt and a couple of washers to play with.


Polishing takes alot of speed and a drill is way to slow but will do an adequate job with time


So I got some more wheels


And converted on of my grinders over to a polisher, their are places online that sell a proper
adapter and I always meant to get on but that would probably cost me $40 with shipping so
since the place I get my stainless steel from claims Home of the "World Famous Wall of Fasteners"
I thought I'd see if I could find the pieces I'd need So for $2.85 + $1.17 + $0.27 + $0.27 = $4.56
I can now run buffing wheels on my grinder.


I gathered up the remaining parts that I need to re paint, below you can see the spark plug
cover that is painted the new color


A picture of the intake before I start to polish it with the grinder, its pretty good now but
I can still see alot of tiny scratches


And some newly painted parts

 

I wish my shop was at least twice as big.....one is never happy

In my garage degreaser = gasoline or diesel or furnace oil whichever is handy

I have green plugs on each end just in case I find a purpose for it.

In North America All Tracs were re called and fitted with an extra presurized tank. I am
going to use my aluminum All Trac radiator so another option for me is to run a hose
from the pipe back to the extra inlet on the All Trac radiator, but I don't really see any
benefit to that.

I don't think the stamped numbers are casting numbers they could easily be incoporated into
the casting and it would cost nothing.



Instead they have had to pay someone to manually stamp these numbers. Normally that would
happen to indicate something specific that went into that case. I would imagine that they indicate
what gears went into the case which is why I documented them all cause I know my other tranny
turns around 3500rpm at the same speed this one turns around 3100rpm so one of these days I'm
going to see what numbers were on that tranny
The only marking I can find on the 3500rpm tranny is a 12 which is the same as the 3100rpm tranny

Yes and no, it is the box that will accept an FE/All Trac starter I did nothing to it when I got
the car it was like that. I'm thinking it may be a JDM tranny as I know the engine that came
in it was a replacement.

Aproximate ratios given it is a limited slip and I was counting the revolution of a half shaft
that had some resistance
5th 3.15:1
4th 3.8:1
3ed 4.9:1
2nd 7.6:1
1st 12.2:1
rev 12:1

I dont know what color the speedo drive gear is but if I turn the half shaft 1 turn the speedo
gear turns about 1.1 turns.

I got the inside of the bell housing cleaned up, it was pretty oily and after sandblasting it
had acumulated a nice pile of dust and dirt


Its amazing how fast rust can happen, this part was sand blasted less than a week ago
and sat on top of the rear spoiler of Dirty Deeds after that, never rained once since sand
blasting but their was still enough moisture in the air to produce new rust
In the background you can see part of the oil cooler, it has been re polished with the grinder
and blue polishing compound

 

Wishfull thinking, I just meant differential but was trying to stress that all my numbers
may be high depending on how much the halfshaft sliped during its revolution due to
resistance.

Todays topic is starter motors. 3 easilly repairable things can go wrong with them.
You can burn out the motor or the solenoid or you can burn out the contacts. In this
picture I've removed the motor and the back cover of the solenoid. Inside you can
see a plunger (round thing) and 2 copper tabs. 1 copper tab is connected to the battery
the other copper tab is connected to the starter motor. When you send power to the starter
it does 2 things the solenoid depresses pushing the starter gear out to engage the flywheel
and the plunger also completes the circuit and allows power to flow from the battery to the
starter.


Here I've removed the plunger and 1 of the copper tabs, you can see where the 2 surfaces
have been in contact and become pitted from the arching that happens when the 2 pieces
of copper make contact.


I was just going to paint the motors steel cover and polish the aluminum cap but their
was hardy any rust on the motor cover so I just sanded off the paint and then polished
it to

 

Well just for you a nasty old starter bolt and some sandpaper


easiest way to do this is with a drill


top bolt has been polished bottom bolt has been sanded to 600 grit


not perfect but I'm not spending a whole lot of time on it


I even got the backing plate for the solenoid to shine a bit and it was pretty nasty before

 

All the polished parts are getting clear coated so if they oxidize again then its
time for paint

 

If I have my 4th gens on the road 20 years from now I think Toyota should give me an engine & tranny

 

I allready have my own "Toyota storage" with parts you can't even get from Toyota anymore :drool5

I dont know whats happening here I went to clear coat this piece and the stuff came out of the can like this.
A couple of days ago I went to clear coat the oil cooler and the same thing happened so I cleaned the crap
of and I bought a new can and did the starter solenoid cover but the same thing again. Two new cans of clear
coat both not going on clear. My old can of clear coat went on so clear its almost impossible to tell what you
need to spray. I'm going to leave this stuff on because I'm hoping that they have added something to the clear
coat that will disapear as it dries, but it would be nice if they would mention that on the can. I'm also going to
get a different product just in case.


Luckilly it does clear up as it dries, to the right I got a can of VHT clear, the left hand can is the
old can that went on clear


To make sure I'm getting the same product I check the bar codes, so it is the same product
but something has definetely changed inside the can


I used the VHT for the oil cooler, same deal it goes on quite milky looking


Here I've used my new grinder setup and polished the left half of the intake, theirs not much of a difference
but it does clear up the "cloudiness" or "haze"


And now totally finished polishing and ready for clear coat






And now with the clear coat

 

I don't know what effect the ceramics had, I have heard before that you can get a ceramic coating for headers
that will act like insulation to keep the heat inside the headers but in this case I don't know what purpose the
ceramics had. The newer cans now claim that its an acrylic polymer


One thing I need for this head is an EGR blockoff plate so I grabed a piece of 1 1/4 x 1/4 bar stock and the gasket
for the EGR pipe a couple of files a grinder and a drill with a sanding disk.






and I got some more parts sandblasted and painted and some bolt heads polished


and even more bolts


and a couple of nuts

 

Gathering up all the parts I need to re assemble the engine


I made a little stand to support the engine, this is a much better solution than just
laying the engine down


The stand will allow the engine to sit level instead of slanted towards the exhaust side. The
measurements I used was 6" high and 9 1/4" between the 2 vertical supports since the oil pan
is 9 1/4" wide. So I used a 18" long 2x4 and 2 @ 4 1/2" to make the stand. Now I've got the clutch
re installed


and finally the tranny re attached