ST162-7254182 "Dirty Deeds" Edited

Yeah all the parts cleared up when they dried. I used the VHT clear on
the oil cooler but I think their both manufactured by the same company.
I think the VHT is supposed to withstand 490 degrees Celcius and the dupli
color is only good for 260 degrees so I used the VHT for the oil cooler since
it's probably the hottest part that needed clearcoating.

I've allways had good results with dupli color too, I hust wasn't expecting
the clear to come out all milky looking since my old can didn't but I guess
it's just a new feature they didn't bother to inform the public about.

 

A shot of the reversed starter position and the 1998 rav4 flywheel


my cheap solution to covering the extra hole left by the removal of the old
gts starter


a couple shots of the throttle body so I can take it appart for cleaning

 

I sandblasted the throttle body and then gave it a quick polishing






and a few steel vacuum lines waiting to get clear coated


and finally afyer clear coating, I think that means I'm now ready to re assemble everything

 

I was hoping to get the engine installed today but I knew I might have to swap distributors
since the wires come out at diferent angles. The All Trac distributor sends the wires out at
about 2 o clock, the GTS sends them out at around 10 o clock so I could have used the All
Trac distributor but the distributor wire holders are set up for GTS wires so I'm going to take
the time to polish another distributor. So with the exception of a distibutor the engines pretty
much ready to go back in






and now the distributors ready to go back

 

heres the distributor and throttle body before they got cleaned up. I can't believe
the distributor cleaned up as good as it did because it was real nasty to start with
but I used the greaseless compound and sanded it and polished it


and it turned out real well


I took the time to clean up a bit and paint some places that had got scratched up


the GTS block has these 2 holes, the All Trac block does not


that means I cannot use this second intake manifold stay which also acts as an exhaust
pipe support


so the engine is ready to go back in now the only thing left to do to it is tighten down
the distributor bolt once I have the timing set






and since I'm going to use my aluminum rad I decided I would have to polish the
top of it up just to add more bling :drool5

 

Stig that hose goes to the flexible hose between the AFM and the throttle body

 

I agree it does not seem to make much sense

Got the top of the rad polished


In the air


It does not fit with the starter attached, I,ve got blankets and pieces of carpet spread around
to protect things


Crappy picture but you can see in addition to the engine hoist and engine leveler I added a
chain hoist to allow even more possible adjustments


And finally all happy in its new home

 

Pretty close now


Just have to
-bleed clutch line
-add battery
-add engine oil
-3 nuts for exhaust manifold
-plug in ecu
-install 2 front tires
-take car off jack stands

 

Everybody can swap an engine/tranny, I'm 50 and it was totally a 1 man job so you
young lads should have no problems keeping up with me :corsair

No new car pic today since it would look the same, I did add oil and bleed the clutch,
put the wheels on and got it off its jack stand but then I had to go fishing so I'll through
in a pic of a pike my buddy caught


So now I have to hook up the battery and plug in the ECU and crank the engine a bit to get
the oil flowing and see if it will start

 

You know that was so much fun I think I'm going to pull the engine and put it back in again :banghead
It took a bit of work but I got it running. When I first tried to start it I noticed that my fan wasn't turning
on and it should because I have it wired to run continuosly so I took the battery out and checked the
fusebox and found one of the plugs from the engine wiring harness wasn't fully connected so I fixed
that and tried starting it but it sounded horrible like it was trying to fire before TDC so I took out the
GTS distributor and put the All Trac distributor back in and it fired up although rather roughly at first
eventually it started to fire on all 4 cylinders. It sounds meaner than the GTS engine did when it idles
the closest I could describe it is when you get one of those big V8 dragsters idling at the starting line.
Now I do have some nice exhaust leaks and it is still inside the garage but it does sound powerfull
although with the All Trac cams still in it it should be less powerfull.

So now back to the bit about having so much fun I'm going to pull the engine again, well when I have
my foot on the clutch all is fine but if I have the tranny in neutral and take my foot of the clutch I get
a knocking sound that sounds like its coming from the bottom end. If I put the tranny in 1ST oe reverse
and let out the clutch I get the sound of 2 gears grinding together so thats not going to work so well.

So I have several options, current setup is the 1998 RAV4 flywheel, clutch disc, and clutch cover and
the 1988 GTS release bearing. My first idea was to rob my All Trac of whatever I needed but it turns
out that would not have helped at all. The problem is the RAV4 cluch disk has a bigger spline than the
GTS. So I definetely have to use a GTS clutch disk or swape the splined shaft coming out of the tranny.

The GTS shaft


The RAV4 shaft, notice also that the shaft the release bearing slides over is not removeable, the
diameter of the release bearings shaft is also bigger that the GTS one


An All Trac shaft, same size as the RAV4 shaft I'm guessing since the release bearing is the same


Release Bearings RAV4 (left) All Trac (middle) GTS (right)
RAV4 & All Trac release bearing are the same GTS bearing is about 1mm thicker and its center
hole is slightly smaller


So I have to pull the engine and hope this GTS clutch disk will work with the RAV4 flywheel and
cluch cover.