ST162-7254182 "Dirty Deeds" Edited

Well by the time you get to 50 years old you acquire a few goodies to play with.
Back in my day it was a large box of Mechano

For the resin probably your best bet is Home Depot


You can also get fiberglass cloth and fiberglass mat at HD. I like to get my mat/cloth on ebay I can
normally find better deals there.




I also like ebay because they have more variety than just cloth or mat. You can also get a combination
of cloth and mat combined into 1 product

 

Well you can never get your hands on to many boobs :hehe

 

Well I wouldn't exactly compare it to modelling clay. You could definetly use modelling clay to make
a negative mold of the part you want but the fiberglass itself has no ability to hold its shape until
the resin hardens it needs a mold of some sort.

Body filler would be much closer to modelling clay.

If you go back to pages 10 & 11 you can see how I made the visor




One of these days I'll post how I did the side window louvers.

 

To late for that engine.....well not really its more like its just not worth it to put the effort/money
into that engine. Unfortunately my garage is only so big and I just keep stuffing more stuff into it.
Currently I have
-Dirty Deeds old head & block & tranny
-another spare GTS tranny
-a ST185 tranny
-a RAV 4 tranny
-a ST165 head & block
stored in the garage in addition to all my tools and now a furnace that I have to
make room for, and thats just the large stuff that takes up floor space.

So the ST165 head and block was my All Tracs original engine which was burning
a fair bit of oil so I had the engine replaced and now that I've seen how much play
their is in the turbo I'd have to guess thats where the oil was leaking but the Toyota
dealership that worked on the car thought it may be the rings of 1 piston all had their
openings lined up and oil was getting past there. I was skeptical about that idea but
a spare engine wasn't going to hurt so I have a spare 165 engine with no real plan of
ever putting it back into the All Trac so logic would tell me that I should convert it to
a naturally aspirated engine and put it into Dirty Deeds. Their is a chance that its no
better than the engine thats in now but if I'm going to end up re building an engine I'd
rater use a 3sgte block as it provides better cooling than a 3sge block and their pretty
notorious for cooking cylinder # 3.

Dirty Deeds next engine


Advantage #1 for a 3sgte block is built in oil cooling


Advantage #2 for a 3sgte block is aditional coolant flow through the block(red arrow) yellow arrow looks like an
aditional temp sensor


Advantage #3 for a 3sgte is oil spayers for the pistons


heres another picture of an oil sprayer on the right I've highlighted the tube in red, it sprays
oil on the under side of the piston


I'm going to use the GTS harness and ECU so I need to change the All Trac injectors for
GTS injectors and I'll put 162 intake and exhaust manifolds on, a 162 oil pan and probably
a 162 water inlet as it has the fan switch but I don't really need that as I run the fans
constant.

I do believe that if I put a GTS head on the All Trac block I would probably get a bit better
performance but for now I'm just going with the engine as it came. What difference would
GTS cams in the All Trac head make. I do believe that the All Trac engine runs lower compression
than a GTS engine is that true? If it is lower compression then is a GTS ECU & injectors going
to make it run rich ?

Any other advantages/disadvantages to a gen 1 3sgte block/head ?

 

One problem I'm going to have in converting a 3sgte to NA is oil and coolant lines that go to the
turbo charger. Coolant lines are easy enough to block off but I have this one oil line that needs
to be blocked. Initially I was just going to make a block of plate but that would still leave the
unused pipe sticking out quite a bit.


A closer view of the oil coolers bolts


Luckilly a friend of mine thats a machinest showed up so i conned him into making me a custom
stainless steel tube




While I have easy access to the engine I'm going to note the various numbers I need to know
in order to replace crank & connecting rod bearings. For the connecting rods the manual says
the number you need is stamped on the side of the bearing cap but I do believe the number
needed is actually cast into the bearing cap. Connecting rod bearings come in 3 sizes 1,2,3
In my case the caps are sized 1,3,2,1 so I need 2x1 sized bearings 1x2 sized bearing & 1X3
sized bearing


For crankshaft bearings you need 2 sets of numbers 1 set of numbers is stamped on the crankshaft
itself


the second set of numbers is stamped on the block


the locations of the 2 sets of numbers


Crankshaft bearings are a bit more complicated and come in sizes 1,2,3,4,5
In my case the crankshaft is marked 10000
and the block is marked 22232

12345 <----Bearing #
10000 <----Crankshaft #
22232 <----Block #
32232 <----Crankshaft + Block #'s (add the 2 numbers together)

Bearing # 1 is size 3
Bearing # 2 is size 2
Bearing # 3 is size 2
Bearing # 4 is size 3
Bearing # 5 is size 2

Connecting rod bearing info


Crankshaft bearing info

 

Interestingly the intake side of the GTE head is pretty clean and lacking oil buildup.
So it was just the exhaust side of the valve cover that was leaking. There is some
oil buildup on the intake side but it was in the area of the distributor so that was
the likely culprit there.


GTE injectors top GE injectors bottom


for some strange reason the standoffs for the fuel rail are slightly different. They both
have the same overall height but the GTE standoffs incoporate a plastic ring


3SGE flywheel 29.4 cm wide


3SFE flywheel from a 1998 RAV4 30.4 cm wide


The manual shows a 3SGE flywheel as having 8 bolts and a Celica 3SFE flywheel only has 6 bolts
I can't use a GTS starter because even though I don't have the turbo I still have the oil cooler
and that will be in the way so I'm going to have to use a GT or All Trac starter and that means
I'm going to need a bigger flywheel so hopefully the RAV4 one is correct. It will be dam close I
know that but until I get a tranny bolted up I won't know for sure.


I finally got the last head bolt out of Dirty Deeds old engine so now I have a spare GTS head


Oh Oh.....................
Its never a good sign when the crank has gotten so hot its burned all the oil of it


Well at least I get every last mile out of my engines


Block looks great to bad I have absolutely no use for it


Crankshaft isn't so great, connecting rod #3's bearing is the one that failed


Bits


Connecting rod #3's bearing

 

I am not totally blocking off the flow of oil from the cooler. The top hole of the oil cooler
sends oil to 2 places, the tube coming of the hole sends oil to the turbo and since the
bolt is hollow it also sends oil back into the block to aid in delivery of oil to the pistons
oil sprayers.


I have just removed the tube that supplies oil to the turbo. The oil cooler will still deliver
oil back to the block and the oil sprayers

 

I decided that the best thing to do before swaping in the 3sgte block was to take
a look at the bearings and see how bad they are. So I grabed some plastigage and
checked out the crankshaft & connecting rod bearings


Plastigage is just a strip of plastic that is a precise diameter


the paper caseing contains a scale so you can read the size, it has metric on the other side


Some other things you'll need, as a minimum clean engine oil and preferably something
called assembly lube


Assembly lube is pretty thick not quite grease but it ain't running down 2 quickly


a torque wrench for tightening the nuts and bolts and hopefully some other wrench for
loosening nuts and bolts as your torque wrench is a precise instrument and should only
be used for torqueing nuts and bolts


to do the job properly and get accurate torque readings you really need to clean all the threads


start by removing the bearing cap and bottom half of the bearing and wipe off excess oil


cut a piece of plastigage and lay it across the journal


put the bottom half of the bearing and the cap back on and torque down to specification


remove the cap & the bottom half of the bearing and you'll be left with a squished piece of
plastigage


grab the handy little measuring scale and you can read the clearance


Clean off all the plastigage from the bearing and journal surfaces. You need to be careful not to
scratch either surface I use the fingernail pictured above but a plastic bondo aplicator or old
credit card may also work


while I have the oil pan off I can also check the thrust washers


the manual says you can use the main bearing cap bolts as levers to pry the caps of once
they have been loosened but I would advise that you use something other than the bolts
unless you are going to replace the bolts


and now for the moment of truth

3sgte Connecting Rods clearance
standard
0.024-0.055mm
0.0009-0.0022inches
maximum 0.008mm or 0.0031inches

Rod #1 0.0015inches
Rod #2 0.0015inches
Rod #3 0.0015inches
Rod #4 0.0015inches

So their all happily right in the middle of the standard clearance allowed.
When I take my readings I try to take the max, all the 0.0015 readings I
took are probably somewhere between 0.0013 & 0.0015 but I'm not going
to waste alot of time getting exact numbers. If the plastigage had of been
up around the 0.002 mark I would have paid more attention

I am surprised #3 rod bearing isn't showing more signs of wear but perhaps
thats the benefit of extra coolant flow and piston oil sprayers.

3sgte Crankshaft clearance
standard
#3
0.028-0.047mm
0.0011-0.0019inches
Others
0.018-0.037mm
0.0007-0.0015inches
maximum 0.008mm or 0.0031inches

#1 0.0015
#2 0.001
#3 0.0015
#4 0.0015
#5 0.0015

So bearings 1,4,5 are at their maximum for an acceptable standard size limit.
Before total failure I can go all the way up to 0.0031inches but I'd rather replace
all 5 bearings now

 

The first thing I have to do tonight is clean up a bit so I can move the engine
closer to the tv.


Now I can check the clearance on the camshaft bearings.....well theres not really
much you can do here if you have excessive wear but at least I'll know what I have.
The 3sge/3sgte heads don't really use bearings since its an aluminum head the head
itself has been machined to the correct size and the same with the bearing caps their
made out of aluminum and machined to the correct size to act as a bearing. So if your
cam bearings are out of spec you will have to send the head out to a machine shop
so they can machine it to take bearings.


I have to take the timing gears off because I want to use the 3sge valve covers but I marked
the timing belt before I loosened the timing gear bolts


So I rotated the crankshaft back to line up the marks


Useing 3sge valve covers mean I need to replace the 3sgte timing gear backing plate with one
from a 3sge


3sgte Camshaft bearing clearance
standard
0.025-0.062mm
0.001-0.0024inches
maximum 0.008mm or 0.0031inches

Intake
#1 0.020
#2 0.019
#3 0.020
#4 0.0175
#5 0.020

Exhaust
#1 0.0175
#2 0.020
#3 0.019
#4 0.0175
#5 0.0175

 

Great thanks for the info, as far as I know the GTS doesn't have one and I'm going to be useing the GTS ECU.

As far as I know you can't find aftermarket 3sge oil pans so the closest I can get is an aftermarket 5sfe oil pan
it will bolt up but it is lacking most of the baffle


So I'm going to sand blast one of my old GTS pans so I made a backing plate




I also blasted a couple other parts, at the right you can see the difference between a GTS
and an All Trac timing gear backing plate


and painted






in preparation for sand blasting the engine I have made up a few covers for various openings




If your a real mechanic its easy to make patterns for different things, all you need is dirty hands
and a piece of paper. Put the piece of paper over the part you want to make a pattern of and run
your dirty fingers along all the edges


If you want you can use a pen or pencil to enhance the lines and in some cases modify the pattern
to make it stronger


I'll put the spare 5sfe oil pan on while I sand blast








In order to clean the block I just use toothbrushes. I have tried lots of specialty brushes but
none of them work as well or last as long as toothbrushes. The only things I used to clean the
block were the 2 toothbrushes and an old screwdriver for scraping crap out of corners. You can
use a heat gun to soften the handle so you can bend it into different shapes


If you don't have a parts washing tank an oil change pan works well to hold solvent or gasoline
and you have a handy spout for pouring stuff out and the solvent will also clean out the pan

 

OMG 37 celcius 45 with the humidity for you farenheit people thats 98.6 & 113
and I've got to wear a hood and bake under the tarp in the sun. This is a nasty
filthy worse than hell job


but I got it done, probably could have spent a bit more time.....but for this job I
would have to disagree with AC DC when they say "Hell Ain't A Bad Place To Be"




Couldn't find Chrysler hemi orange so I went with Chevy orange, looks pretty much
the same to me, I guess my time in hell was worth it




The aluminum parts, head, oil pump cover and water pump housing I am just going to
clear coat and the oil pan has already been painted an aluminum color