ST162-7254182 "Dirty Deeds" Edited

Hey thanks for all that good info stig. I don't have any polution tests here so I don't use EGR EVAP CAT

That 5s oil pan was just put on for sand blasting I have a 3sge oil pan to put back on

I was afraid I would loose power with the All Trac head & pistons but for now thats what I'm going with
I do have several sets of GE pistons and a couple of spare GE heads so that may become this winters
project. If I loose to much power I'll just take the turbo out of my All Trac. Then I'll probably be running
a bit lean especially with GTS injectors and ECU.

Todays fun includes more sand blasting so I took some washers and covered them in duct tape to help
seal them so I could block off the openings on the oil cooler pipe


more cleaned bits top left is the oil pipe & washers


and now I have clear coated the aluminum head and other bits

 

Thanks again for more great info. For now I'm just going to stick with the GTE cams
since I could swap them later without removing the engine and then I'd have a good
idea of how much difference there is performance wise.

I run the fan constant because the wiring in this car is pathetic, one of the previous
owners has hacked and butchered the wiring to the extent that alot of stuff doesn't
work so until I replace the bad harnesses I would rather run critical things constantly.

I will ask my friend to make another one of those tubes, shouldn't be a problem

You want this disaster area ????? I wish some of you did live closer so you could use it


All my backing plates have the starter hole so I'll just have to add a round cover, I do have a Camry
5sfe with auto tranny so that might have had the correct backing plate but it's not worth the effort
of separateing the 2 to find out.

The oil pump shaft has no play and I'll check and clean the relief valve

 

Well at least the floor is taken care off.

:lol2
Well er um yeah :banghead

You mean like this
















I probably don't know where 90% of my parts are.

 

Winter isn't nice to polished aluminum, especially aluminum that has allready had some previous corrosion.
Car was never driven in the winter or salty conditions. This is all just from moisture in the air that has
condensed on the metal while it was stored outside for the winter. If it had of been stored indoors in a
heated area it would have been ok.


So I'm going to try to seal the polished metal with a clear coat. I know in the old days the clearcoat
would yellow with age but now they seem to have better clear coats so I'm going to do a quick polish
on the fuel rail and then clear coat it


A while later I've given it a good enough polish to test the clear coat


The product I'm going to try is Dupli-Color Engine Enamel with Ceramics 260 Celcius 500 Farenheit


So overall not to bad its a little bumpy like orange peel but almost all paint goes on bumpy. I
could probably get an even better finish if I wet sanded the clear coat with 1000-1500 grit paper
and then gave it a good final polishing




Overall I'm pretty happy with the outcome since the alternative is to repolish everything once a year

 

Old engine is out of Dirty Deeds


And pretty much striped of needed parts

 

So I'm going to polish everything 1 more time. A quick wet sanding with 600 grit and
then black,brown,white & green polishings. I allready did the water inlet and outlet
housings. The exhaust valve cover has been polished but not yet clear coated.


Now I've clear coated the exhaust cover






Here you can also see the water inlet housing


If your going to use GTS covers on a 165 head you won't be able to bolt down the intake covers
center bolt


pretty much got this side together now

 

Dam that is weird, I knew you guys had your steering wheel on the wrong side of the car
but now your telling me that your whole engine is reversed and the intake and exhaust
is backwards. On my engine its the intake valve cover :hehe

I have checked some of my other valve covers and some of them have the 2 holes on the
intake cover so I would be guessing this may be an 86 cover and later covers were modified
when they came out with the GTE head.

 

Well thats a pretty nasty looking altenator


So I used a drill and wire wheel to clean it up and then I used black polishing
compound to give it a shine. Metal doesn't have to be perfectly smooth or even
sanded with 600-1000grit sandpaper. Here I just used a wire wheel and then
straight to black polishing compound and you can still make a part look alot
better


Here I've started to do the distributor not even a wire wheel this time just black
polishing compound


and the intake manifold is coming along nicely

 

Okay some Toyota engineer should be shot for sticking this nasty piece
of rusty metal on top of the oil cooler. They could have at least made it
out of the same material as the oil cooler :aargh cheep bastards :barf


Oh well its gotta go, I'm hoping its spot welded but I dont see any signs
of a spot weld so I'm just going to have to grind where the 2 sufaces
meet


well still no signs of spot welds so I took some pliers and broke the left tab
of by repeatedly bending it back and forth. It is seriously attached to the
oil cooler so its not going to be to pretty cause I'm just going to have to
keep grinding of the bracket until I think I'm down to the oil cooler metal
so like I said its not going to be to pretty.


well not to pretty but polishing will help


and after I attacked it with the black polishing wheel


and I got the altenator bracket painted and the altenator re mounted

 

The altenator looks shinier in this shot


and now for todays fun job (not)


getting a tranny cleaned up


and that bit of nastyness is finished




and a bit later some paint