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How do you "Burp" the cooling system (3S GE)?

Discussion in 'Diagnosis/Help' started by vicdat, Apr 6, 2012.

Page 5 of 7
  1. vicdat

    vicdat Well-Known Member

    Thanx 2765
    While I was waiting for your reply I went outside to lock up the Celi and on a whim tried to start her up...it sort of fired up; wouldn't stay running, but at least it was a slight improvement. Tomorrow I'll try again. Any thoughts?
     
    vicdat, May 7, 2012
    #81
  2. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!

    If your religeous ----------> pray :bowdown
     
    ST165-2765, May 7, 2012
    #82
  3. vicdat

    vicdat Well-Known Member

    Not religious at all but I do have faith, four polydactyle cats and a lot of hope
     
    vicdat, May 7, 2012
    #83
  4. Spiderman

    Spiderman Well-Known Member

    @Dave

    What does that YELLOW wire and fuse do that is connected to the positive on your battery ?
     
    Spiderman, May 7, 2012
    #84
  5. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Just extra power for more accesories, when I had the car torn appart I added an extra wire to the harness that
    runs through my drivers side fender and into the car. Specifically it powers all the additional roof lights and also
    provides power for my remote controlled doors.

    The fuse is so if for some reason anything running off the yellow wire gets grounded I don't set the car on fire.
     
    ST165-2765, May 7, 2012
    #85
  6. vicdat

    vicdat Well-Known Member

    Oh, so those are the fusable links...I'll double check everything tonight when I get home.
    I'm leaning towards needing new cap and rotor though.

    V
     
    vicdat, May 7, 2012
    #86
  7. vicdat

    vicdat Well-Known Member

    Hi
    I just discovered that if I disconnect the fan sensor on the T-stat housing the car will start and run rough for a few seconds then die. If I try to start it with the sensor connected it turns over good but won't start at all almost like a no spark situation. I wonder if the fan sensor is the culpret of all my problems...
     
    vicdat, May 7, 2012
    #87
  8. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!

    What year is your 3sge? does it have the O2 sensor in the exhaust manifold 86-87 or under the engine in the exhaust pipe 88-89 ?
     
    ST165-2765, May 8, 2012
    #88
  9. vicdat

    vicdat Well-Known Member

    87 with o2. Sensor on mani right in the front easy to get to...why, do you think its bad? What about my revelation about running when fan sensor is disconnected?
     
    vicdat, May 8, 2012
    #89
  10. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!

    You can test the sensor, with it unpluged & cold make sure you have continuity between the sensor terminal and ground
    [​IMG]

    Check your O2 sensor wire and plug, is it a 1 wire sensor ? I think mine was a 4 wire sensor when I had
    an 87 engine and I had problems with the O2 plug and wires
     
    ST165-2765, May 8, 2012
    #90
  11. vicdat

    vicdat Well-Known Member

    My O2 is a single wire.
    I'll try to run the tests tonight...they look pretty easy to do.

    Vic
     
    vicdat, May 8, 2012
    #91
  12. vicdat

    vicdat Well-Known Member

    Hey Guys,

    On the upper water outlet, what color are the wires that go to the cold start injector and the EFI Water temp? The connectors are very similar...maybe I have them plugged in wrong.

    Vic
     
    vicdat, May 10, 2012
    #92
  13. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Normally toyota makes it so you can't mix up plugs, if you look at them closely you'll probably see that is the case but
    just to check for a 1988 the wiring diagram says

    cold start injector green wire & a black wire
    [​IMG]

    EFI brown wire & a red wire
    [​IMG]
     
    ST165-2765, May 11, 2012
    #93
  14. vicdat

    vicdat Well-Known Member

    Thanks 2765
    I'll double check them tomorrow...
    The car's starting again; runs good for a few mins unti the temp gets to halfway then slight upward and continuous spikes higher and when it does that the engine runs rough but I don't notice any true overheating signs.
     
    vicdat, May 11, 2012
    #94
  15. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!

    I think you said you were in California ? Perhaps this EGR Sensor thats inline with the EFI Temp Sensor ?
    [​IMG]
     
    ST165-2765, May 11, 2012
    #95
  16. vicdat

    vicdat Well-Known Member

    So tonight I yanked out the cluster and cleaned up everything in that area. Can't put it back until I get a small instrument light for the ECT "Normal" mode which burned out a couple of months ago...the two bulbs are different than the rest and say TSD V2 I checked to see if I could find a Toy part number and came up with #9072-02005 for about a buck each. I sincerely doubt if I can just march into my local dealer and walk out with one...they hate me there...but I ramble. ..
    If any of you know other sources for it let me know.
     
    vicdat, May 15, 2012
    #96
  17. Jamezzy

    Jamezzy Well-Known Member Donated!

    Apart from what we discussed over the phone, I just read through your thread and your situation still stumps me lol.

    -Temperature spikes but no overheating signs.
    -Poor idle when accelerated
    -Idles fine for a bit

    I myself have got A LOT to learn about cars, but what I can tell you is this:
    -More often than not, my car idled horribly when parked uphill and idled better parked downhill (which confused me at first) but found out it was due to a leak in the air intake (accordion) hose.
    -Idled horribly due to a bad battery even if I drove it 2 miles. (Started sounding like a MoPed or something)
    -And I think I still have to burp my cooling system since I do get temp spikes way too fast

    I hope this helps you, as I can relate to some of these problems. Might be a leak in your air intake too and such. But I don't understand the jumpy temp gauge.
    Also do check the timing belt if it is incorrectly placed. Might not be powering your alternator the right way thus the spikes and the early dead battery? How's the car's 'ground'? Could be some wiring acting up due to corrosion. Just throwing possibilities out there.
    Hope this helps.
    -Jamezzy
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2012
    Jamezzy, May 16, 2012
    #97
  18. vicdat

    vicdat Well-Known Member

    Thanx for all your help thus far...I think that I'm getting closer to closure on this issue:
    I finally installed the donor temp guage which works much better than the original; this one does not "bounce" at all. I'm still getting slightly higher readings than normal. After a few miles it creeps up to just over halfway or even a little higher. The car seems to be running OK. I'm still not convinced that it's right as far as trusting it on too long of a jaunt...
     
    vicdat, May 17, 2012
    #98
  19. vicdat

    vicdat Well-Known Member

    Just as I suspected...drove it around tonight...starts easy, runs smooth and quiet. New temp gauge seems more accurate, but after a few miles temp creeps above half then higher almost to red and runs a little rough unless I drive slow then temp drops to just above halfway; the more aggressive I drive the hotter it gets. I might pull the radiator and check it out closer...sucks for me...
     
    vicdat, May 17, 2012
    #99
  20. eNtraxGT88

    eNtraxGT88 Well-Known Member Donated!

    it's weird how it gets hotter the faster you drive. usually the faster you drive, more air hits the radiator and cools it down. try this, blast your heater (full fan speed, all the way to red, fresh air source) while driving around, see if it still runs rough.
     
    eNtraxGT88, May 18, 2012
    #100
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