How do you "Burp" the cooling system (3S GE)?

So it's not getting over 200* according to your mechanic (ok, normal temps my swap I have a 190* OEM thermostat and I usually run about 200*) but yet when your gauge spikes you have performance issues?


The cluster gauge is just displaying what it's receiving from the sensor. If it spikes, there shouldn't be any effect on the motor (if indeed the gauge is bad).

 

hmm. maybe an electrical issue. maybe a positive wire is hitting the motor somewhere. check the alt + going over the motor? i would think youd need to find what would cause the cluster to fail. individual gauges/lights could go bad, but those can all be swapped individually. the cluster isnt bad to pull.

-in fact now that i think about it you should chech that plastic bit that goes over the motor. ill bet something is shorting in there. you have the alt wires, and temp sensors wires in there (probably more things but mines all relocated and i dont remember everything in that part of the loom) that whole bit being rotted out is a common issue but havent seen it get into anyones wiring all the way yet.

-once you find the issue then you could replace lights and gauges as needed.

-i guess dave would have to chime in if this is possible.

 

Holly crap now the auto tranny is toast too..............

Now thats a smart mechanic he must be logging in and reading this thread.
I also agree with him about the temp guage, if we know the sensor is good and
I think we can assume it is if your not going over 200 and don't worry about 200
thats fine remember your thermostat is set to open at 180 so that means the
cool water flowing into the engine is 180 when it comes out the other end 200 is
fine.

I would seriously think about replacing the temp guage in the cluster, each gauge
is seperate so theirs no real possibility that the whole cluster is f..ked, it's not a
solid state circuit board so it is possible that only the temp guage is broken and
that is sending faulty signals to the engine ECU and auto tranny ECT ECU.

Is this the light in the instrument cluster ? I highly doubt the instrument cluster light would cause your problems

Lets solve your temperature problem before we look at other issues.
Remember since you have an auto tranny you have a ECT ECU and
since you have that you can easilly tell if your tranny has detected
any problems since it will tell you so. So if the O/D OFF light in the
instrument cluster isn't blinking then don't worry about the tranny

Temperature plays a big role in an auto tranny so if the engine ECU
and auto tranny ECT ECU are getting false temperature readings who
knows what problems thats going to cause



If you want a temp guage I can ship you 1 but I'm guessing your in the states and
mine will have to go through customs from Canada so you might want to find 1 locally
Just the cost of shipping if you want it but it will take longer to get to you than a US
one.

 

Seems to me your gauge and box ecu are getting weird temp readings, problem is they are two different sensors.
I'd start by checking the connectors aren't rusted, then check the earth's under the dash and on the motor

To burp I just fill the rad, close it and squeeze the hoses a couple of times. Then re-fill the radiator - done

 

Good stuff lads.


For the radiator I just keep filling (while the engine is running and hot) and I make sure the overflow bottle is at least halfway.

If all the hoses - thermostat - radiator cap and pressure are correct then the radiator should stay full and hopefully GREEN :aargh

 

i doubt a cracked mani would cause that. even if the sensors were being heated the coolant would cool them.

-is your thermostat in the right way? the wax plug bit should be in the motor.

-again check the wiring bit that runs over the motor behind the alternator. its an easy check. the plastic bit will be rotted out for sure, just carefully check all the wires.

-and again to make sure the coolant system is burped pull one of the coolant hoses of the bottom of the throttle body. its the highest point in the system. just have somebody turn it over till its purged then stick the hose on. dont start and run the car like this or youll have a mess. this did cause a major idle issue with 09 for me.

 

So basically what do we know now ?
- temp guage does not work properly but mechanic says engine isn't going above 200
- fans work
- the car starts and idles properly

Your problem is that it runs rough when you try to accelerate ?
can you accelerate at all ? ie gentle acceleration is ok but hard acceleration causes it to bog down
does this problem happen at a certain rpm ?

 

if your coolant is always under 200F, but the gauge shows otherwise, definitely change the 1pin spade sender or the gauge. the gauge in the cluster takes 15 minutes tops from taking it out of the dash to getting everything back together. i had a gauge once that spiked DOWN before. changed it and all is well.

if you're changing the manifold, i would seriously consider the later gen celica manifolds. they bolt right in as long as the donor car has an S engine. the 5s-fe ones fit, but i think they're the same desgin as 3s-fe (downgrade) or find some 2nd/3rd gen 3s-ge's somewhere in the world.

 

hmmm.

check the intake hose from the box to the throttle body (the big one). take it of and strech it to check in-between all the accordian bits. make sure theres no cracks, including were the clamps tighten on it.

dave (2675) is much better at diagnostics than me btw. but ill bet if we were all standing in front of the car we could have it running in 30min.

 

if your freeze plugs are at fault, your temps would be a constant degradation.