ST162-7254182 "Dirty Deeds" Edited

Re: ST162-7254182

Yeah this one was half price and I was ordering other stuff anyways
so I thought I'd pick it up. I knew it was a bit big but I thought I'd
check it out. Thats one of the reasons I ordered 30 10mm red leds
cause I'll probably be useing them for the rear turn signals and center
brake light, but I thought I'd check out the other light.

 

Re: ST162-7254182

Well thats the basic molding all done. When I made the main visor piece
I also made 2 little side pieces that I have now attached to the sides
of the visor. So I now have 5 areas that conform to the shape of the
roof. The 2 edges I just did and the 3 strips under the bolts. I might
use 2 sided tape on the 2 edges since they don't have any bolts it will
depend how ridgid the final visor is, it may be strong enough that the
bolts will hold everything in place without flexing at high speed.

 

Re: ST162-7254182

Don't really know. Alot depends on how cold the garage gets. To cold
and its "useless" trying to get the resin to cure.

I got the driving lights today so I immediately cut holes in the visor
and used little pieces of styrofoam to wedge them in place for a
pretty good idea of how they'll fit

 

Re: ST162-7254182

Yeah those lights are the make or break point for the visor. Without them its a pretty
plain piece of curved fiberglass but with them it will add more shape & detail to the
visor and give it more of a purpose. As I had previously stated the whole reason for
the visor is because I wanted roof mounted lights but thought they would look kind
of dorky just bolted to the roof so since I liked the visors I used to have on my old
customized vans I thought I could do a pretty good job of merging the lighting and
visor into one unit. Now that I have the driving lights I'm pretty happy with the way
they fit in, but in reality I really don't care what it looks like I'm more concerned with
added light on the road and other places. I drive alot at night and alot of times oncoming
drivers don't turn down their high beams. I used to just flash my high beams in the hope
the oncoming driver would get the hint and turn his high beams off. Now I just turn my
high beams on and leave them on until the other driver turns his off. I really can't
wait to blind them with all this extra light.

I might have to raise the lights up a little bit cause their pretty tight in their but 1/4"
should help alot




Price $400 $200 for lights & leds & bolts & fiberglass & $200 for me the bad
news is the waiting time. As far as I can see I'm pretty busy for at least the
next 2 years so at least you have time to save money.

 

Re: ST162-7254182

Today I made some cardboard molds for the inside of
the lights.






I'm going to use some woven cloth first and then cover it
with a layer of the mat. The woven cloth will wrap around
90 degree corners easier.


Once the fiberglass has been laid I bolted the the visor back
on the roof. These pieces I'm making now should help to add
some strength to the visor so thats why I bolted the visor
back in place so as the pieces cure the visor will maintain the
correct shape.

 

Re: ST162-7254182

And now a few pics after the resin has dried and the molds removed

 

Re: ST162-7254182

Yeah its you toetap05

Thanks for the ideas and nice picture all ideas are appreciated. I was
planning on 'leaving' the lights open so the air flowing over them will
help to keep them cool. As far as rusting is concerned I agree that
most of these cheap aftermarket lights rust out pretty quickly but I'll
repaint them & clear coat them before I mount them and I'm also
hoping that since they are 4' of the ground instead of the normal 1'
that they won't get as damaged by road debris and crap.

As far as brackets are concerned and being able to adjust the light up
and down I allready have the brackets made and I have enough
adjustability. I went with a really simple method of adjustment partly
because the simpler the method the more reliable it should be and also
the simpler the method is usually also the cheapest and you can't get
much cheaper than a couple nuts and bolts and a couple of pieces of
metal bent at right angles.

Top bolt in bottom bolt out and the light angles down


Top bolt out bottom bolt in and the light angles up


So there you have it the KISS (keep it stupid simple) principle at its finest.
A pivot point and a way to apply a force above or below the pivot point.