Does anyone have a solution for a replacement part for the broken tab on the power window switch? Every switch I have ever seen is broken.
Just keep check the local Pull-A-Part for cars coming in, someones got have these. Rock Auto doesn't list them, so you might just want check with either www.sparkstoyota.com or www.cabetoyota.com , both have more for older cars. If all else fails, check with www.toyheadauto.com , he might can get them too!! racerb
Well you really have 2 options - make a replacement piece - modify the original big switch so the little center piece isn't needed In the following picture if you break off the little tab indicated you will be able to use the big button to raise and lower the drivers window. You will also gain the auto up function for the drivers window. other option is to make 1 I used a hunk of aluminum I had a 1" by 1/8" piece of bar so I used it It worked well but when I had the chance I got a bigger chunk of aluminum
ive got a couple of extras , i will make sure they work before i ship.......35 shipped, send me pm if you want one
>>if you break off the little tab indicated you will be able to use the big button to raise and lower the drivers window. You will also gain the auto up function for the drivers window.<< Tonight I am looking at my 1987 BGB and I found this illustration which verifies this. I will remove that tab and test ..
Here's my solution: http://www.st162.net/forum/showthread.php?3520-Fixing-Power-Window-Switch Here's quick write-up on a common problem. It worked for me, just thought I'd share; maybe it'll help someone else. A very common problem on the 4th Gen Celica is the broken tab on the power window button. While not a major problem, it is an annoyance. Here's a simple and inexpensive fix: I fixed my power window switch by using a piece of plastic sprue or "tree" from a model kit. Cut an oversize piece of plastic sprue, hold it with pliers and heat gently over a candle. Be patient and take your time. When it has softened slightly, push it into the broken tab so it forms an impression. Trim it to size and if necessary, clean up the edges with an X-acto knife. Prepare both surfaces with some rubbing alcohol and let dry. Then use a pin or something small like that and carefully apply some Krazy Glue to both surfaces. Press together. I only had green plastic but you can paint it black if you wish. ***Be very careful not let any excess Krazy Glue drip into the PW switch mechanism!*** Mine has held for over 10 years like that. You don't have to take your door apart and it costs you next to nothing.
sorry to reply over here while you guys are talking on other stuff I got a problem and that would be that my battery as been going flat for quiet some time now I never found the problem maybe this was the cause of it can some on tell me why and how should the wiring be on this fitting this is the positive terminal
Your wiring appears to be slightly different from mine. My yellow wire joins with a black wire and the two of them then turn into a white wire. Heres where the wires go inside the fuseable link box Heres the best wiring diagram I have, it does not show a yellow wire but its more accurate than other wiring diagrams I have You appear to have red wires where I have black wires but overall the connections seem the same
Got the tabs, painted them with flat black, and one installed. I had to use my Dremel tool to cut away some plastic to allow the tab to fit in the slot and move the levers. i also clipped the small tab to allow for automatic up function.
