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Headwork

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by 1fstgts, Jan 25, 2012.

  1. 1fstgts

    1fstgts Well-Known Member Staff Member Administrator Moderator Donated!

    Ok, so I went up to the engine shop that did my bottom end and dropped off my head to get redone. Getting ported/polished, new Ferrera 1mm oversized valves etc. Now my question to the boost guys, is what/whos cams is everyone using? I have the stock cams that came with the gen2 3SGTE, I also have the set of cams from my 3SGE. Id rather not be changing cams out later.
     
  2. Zaluss

    Zaluss Well-Known Member Donated!

    I read somewhere that Cometic was the brand of choice for that. Mafix will probably have the answer for that though.
     
  3. eNtraxGT88

    eNtraxGT88 Well-Known Member Donated!

    i heard that 3s-ge cams are a bit more aggressive...stig should be able to help you too!
     
  4. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    Yeah the GE cams are a bit better
    Anything more than that and you'll have to buy a/m cams for the gen1, you can't use gen2/3 stuff in there.

    The head I want is the gen2 turbo, it has big springs, buckets and cams with bigger profiles which are swappable with the gen3

    I'd get reliefs around the valves too while it's out - comes stock on the gen3 heads

    On my thread is tons of head info pics lately as I've been comparing for my new motor
    http://www.st162.net/forum/showthre...a-162-2-amp-4-door-and-many-more-jdm-oddities
     
  5. Spiderman

    Spiderman Well-Known Member

    I have been looking at your oddities thread, some pages can't be found while others go to the other forum home page..
     
  6. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    Don't blame me -
    The new site addressing doesn't recognize the old site page addresses, you'll find that ALL the links prior to January are messed
    The 'missing pages" are addresses on the old site which are now deleted, ther'e still here on the new site but the links aren't working
    Somehow we're going to have to change them

    A few pages back is a post on the different cams and timing
     
  7. 1fstgts

    1fstgts Well-Known Member Staff Member Administrator Moderator Donated!

    Ok. I think Im having a brain lapse... what do you mean by reliefs?
     
  8. Mafix

    Mafix Owner Staff Member Administrator Donated!

    i'm assuming you are using a gen 2 head...
    port and polish will net you nearly nothing HP wise. it's a touch more but not a lot
    polishing the cumbustion chambers it the single most important thing.
    the valves and valve work won't help a ton either. hell mine are still bone stock. but a good cleaning and lapping or angle cutting to make sure they are clean and closing proper.

    not that over kill ever hurt. the port and polish and the oversized valves will help for sure.

    your biggest thing is that you'll need on the head are some cams. gc 264 or better for the gen 2 should be a good pic. if you are going to use stock cams use GE cams. the only catch is that stock cams are generation specific. so gen 1 cams only work on gen 1 motors. gen 2 for gen 2, ect.
     
  9. 1fstgts

    1fstgts Well-Known Member Staff Member Administrator Moderator Donated!

    Awesome info. Ill probably order Crower cams. As far as my Gen1 JDM head, I guess its getting mothballed.
     
  10. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    Sorry - thought you meant gen2 GE
    Gen2 cams will fit the gen1 but destroy the shims/buckets, gen1 cams won't work in the gen2 heads.

    Knew that was gonna bite me - I meant to say chamfer/radius/countersink like this -
    [​IMG]

    I normally chamfer the ledges as well, air doesn't like sharp corners
    [​IMG]

    Seems to make a difference, I don't have dyno charts to back it up tho

    Oem cam specs
    1st gen 3SGE (160hp) - shim (4AGE) on bucket
    Cam # 88360, Head #88360/1
    IN: 240deg, 7.2mm lift, (timing 5/55) Overlap = 10 deg
    EX: 240deg 7.2mm lift, (timing 55/5)

    1st gen 3SGTE (185hp) - shim (4AGE) on bucket
    Cam #88380, Head #88380/1
    IN: 232deg, 7.15 lift, (timing 4/48) Overlap = 8 deg
    EX: 232deg, 7.15 lift, (timing 48/4)

    2nd gen 3SGE ST182, SW20(165hp): - shim (3SFE) on bigger bucket
    Cams have no number?, Head #88363?
    In: 244deg, 8.5mm lift (timing 7/57) Overlap = 14 deg
    Ex: 244deg, 8.5mm lift (timing 57/7)

    2nd gen 3SGTE ST185, SW20 (225hp) - shim (3SFE) on bigger bucket
    Cam # 88383?, Head #88383, 88390
    In: 236deg, 8.2mm lift (timing 8/4) Overlap = 8 deg
    Ex: 236deg, 8.2mm lift (timing 56/0)

    3rd gen 3SGE A/T (170hp) - shim under bucket
    In: 240deg, 8.7mm lift (timing 7/53) Overlap = 14 deg
    Ex: 240deg, 8.2mm lift (timing 53/7)

    3rd gen 3SGE M/T (180hp) - shim under bucket
    Head #88460, cam# 88460
    In: 252deg, 9.8mm lift (timing 7/65) Overlap = 14 deg
    Ex: 240deg, 8.2mm lift (timing 53/7)

    3rd gen 3SGTE (245hp) - shim under bucket
    Head #88481, cam #88480
    In: 240deg, 8.7mm lift (timing 7/53) Overlap = 13 deg
    Ex: 236deg, 8.2mm lift (timing 50/6)
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2012
  11. 1fstgts

    1fstgts Well-Known Member Staff Member Administrator Moderator Donated!

    Thanks Stig. Makes sense. I would venture to say the shop is going to do that. They are an extremely reputable engine shop that has been building racing engines for years. Also, does anyone make aftermarket cam bearings or will the stock ones work(obviously new)? If my memory serves me I went with ACL on the mains, havent looked to see if they make the cam bearings or not yet.
     
  12. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    The cams don't have bearings, I scrapped a gen2 GTE head the other day because the caps and head were badly chewed up.
    There is a way to fix this or re-size the cam journals - it's the same as re-sizing a conrod/main cap, but the head has to be line bored and the seal caps re-cut, it's damn expensive.

    ACL make normal white metal bearings and also a "Race" compound with a stiffer shell to prevent the shells distorting under extreeme load or heat.
    [​IMG]


    The race bearings are also available in .025 oversize which was handy when I discovered my crank had been polished twice and the gaps were around .060
    [​IMG]

    I've had terrible luck sofar - all the motors I've bought have had roasted bearings, this is a "good set" (wasn't knocking - yet)
    [​IMG]

    Which leads me to the following
    1)Using the GTE/5S oil pump with an overdrive pulley is a must, esp on the GTE's.
    No excuse, you don't need to spend $350 either - http://www.eportuning.com/Oil-Pump/...mry-5SFE-22-NEW-Sensor-Oil-Pump-p9080947.html
    2)Grooving the main journals to force more oil to the big ends - (explained on the Crower site). Normal on race cars.
    3)Cross drilling the big end journals and using lighter rods without oil holes (ours are too damn heavy)
    4)Pay attention to the oil pressure gauge
    5)Use the best oil you can afford and change it & filters before it turns black
    6)Any score marks anywhere inside the oil pump - chuck it out

    This really pisses me off, it's the GTE motor those bearings came from
    [​IMG]

    Pulleys can be found on later motors
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2012
  13. 1fstgts

    1fstgts Well-Known Member Staff Member Administrator Moderator Donated!

    Its been so long since I tore the head apart I couldn't remember if it had bearings or not. I used the acl race bearings. Ill post a pic of my short block later. So later ge oil pumps have smaller pulleys?
     
  14. 1fstgts

    1fstgts Well-Known Member Staff Member Administrator Moderator Donated!

    And next dumb question, what buckets should I use?
     
  15. Seank90

    Seank90 Well-Known Member Donated!

    was looking at you links page and just changed the first one to the last page web link... sent me straight back to the index page.
     
  16. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    Yeah, dunno what you mean but I see the old site used number addressing and the new one has filename addressing

    Oil pulleys - later 5S and 3S motors - not all have it and the oil cooler, seems to be some changes on various motors and no explanation found yet.

    Shims - I think the gen2 shims would be good for less than 9mm of lift, over 9 and I'd fit the under bucket shims but the retainers and valves are different

    I have tons of gen1 & 2 shims, fairly easy to find on 4A and FE motors - under bucket and solid shims are a pita to find
    I took some from a 5E motor the other day - no joy, they are 0.5mm narrower so won't sit in the gen2 bucket - go Toyota:mad:
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2012
  17. 1fstgts

    1fstgts Well-Known Member Staff Member Administrator Moderator Donated!

    Thanks good info. I have a custom Oil cooler that I built.
     
  18. Mafix

    Mafix Owner Staff Member Administrator Donated!

    shim under bucket shims are what you want. i believe you can get them from supertech
     
  19. celicaman

    celicaman Well-Known Member Donated!

    shimless buckets from a 1zz will fit
     
  20. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    Shim under bucket you need gen3 valves/retainers
    Shimless will work with gen2 valves
     

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