So the car is starting and capable of pulling itself now, I love it, except for the fact that its gonna overheat! Water pump isn't doing anything! no pressure in the line, water isn't moving! I dont want my alltrac to die! Question is should I get it towed to a shop to get it done? I'm not good with timing belts and I was told it was loose Check engine light is on BTW...
Well..the first deal is. Dont drive it. Second if you have no flow, chances are Id say your thermostat is bad and not opening at all. A bad waterpump should still move some water. If the impeller was completely off inside the pump it would be making some serious noise. Typically when our pumps go bad they tend to start leaking. Id take your water inlet off under the alternator and check out the thermostat. Second read the code and find out what the ECU thinks is wrong. Also define"told it was loose" on the timing belt. If your timing belt was loose youd have worse problems than no water pump. ie poor oil pressure and possibly jumping time on the intake/exhaust cams.
lose by it requires a little force but it gives about 2-3 cm in either direction (top) And thanks! If its the thermostat or something elce because mafix and my mr2 friends are telling me what a PITA is its Do you know any place that will do an on site ecu scan? Whats the best way to check the pump? What sort of sound should I be listening for? my exhaust is a strait pipe with only the DP cat (which isnt working too well) so Its hard to hear unspecific noises. I also had some barely visible smoke coming from above the valve cover but under the inter cooler no strong burning smell more chemical (I'm thinking and praying its just the paint that hasn't cured but I doubt it) No smoke from the exhaust though
First. You can scan the code yourself. Go here. http://st162.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=343 I dont remember the spec off hand on the timing belt, but that sounds ok. The thermostat isnt that bad to get at, youll have drain the radiator. Then take off the alternator and then the lower hose from the radiator. Its like 2 bolts and the water inlet should come right off with the thermostat. There is a sensor on that inlet as well. If you suspect the water pump is bad, you can take out the thermostat reassembly the hoses.(leave you alternator off.) fill it back up with fluid and you should be able to watch coolant flowing through the radiator inside where the cap goes. Without the thermostat installed you wont have to wait for the engine to warm up. This is only just to test water flow. You definately need a thermostat installed no matter what anyone tells you. Heres why, the thermostat acts as a valve/restrictor. First to bring let the engine warm up to normal operating temp and allows coolant to flow. Second then once its warmed up it allows the water to flow at a rate that will keep the engine at the correct temperature. Without the restriction the water will flow too fast. If the water runs through the engine too quickly it doesnt do its job by removing the heat AND also it moves through the radiator before it can cool down. So the reverse happens and you can overheat your engine without even knowing it. Goto www.celicatech.com. There you can look at the BGB's(Toyotas Shop manuals) online. Everything youll need to know on how to test the water pump, thermostat and disassembly-reassembly is in that book.
NO NO NO NO NOOOOOO Coolant just dumped from some where behind the engine it just poured out... pour water into radiator... water/coolant dumps from behind engine.... /cry
The only places for coolant to run out on that side is the heater core going into the car. I could traces those lines back and see what happens. From the firewall is where I would start. Should be dead center on the firewall, bout 8-9 inches down from the top. just a guess there. Its been a while.
question Actual Scenerio... My father... I dont feel any pressure in these lines *gropes the main coolant lines repeatedly* "HEY! your coolant level is lower" *I start to argue with him looking at it that thats the way it was last time* "NO! Its lower that means something is moving through the lines!" he says He grabs the water hose and puts more water into the radiator.. Water comes from behind engine w/coolant onto the garage floor.... I had started the car previously and moved it no problems... all serious problems and new findings happened after the tube groping...
Where is this... if some one has pictures of the BACKSIDE of a pulled 3s-gte who wants to point this out please let it be known! I cant the origin of the leak...
one of the hoses is red, and one's black, iirc....they're about an inch - inch and a half in diameter and they go into the firewall....they're not that hard to find....
I cant find a red one ::EDIT:: I deserve a "CHECK YO HOSES AFTER YOU MESS WITH CRAP" beating... Throttle body coolant line... wasnt clamped down and it popped off, wile it sat on the valve cover it spewed water down the back side of the motor, it went behind some stuff and well... appeared to be coming from behind the engine... And now, with that problem solved... Its time to get back to the original problem! and on a side note... MAH FENDERS ARRIVED!
good to see you got it fixed! for future reference you can see the metal lines that the hoses go onto at the firewall in my empty engine pics, theyre in my ride thread.
Well now coolant is flowing again! I'm so excited! Changed the oil wile I had that alternator air thing off too. Did the self ECU scan and I got the following numbers for sure. 21 41 51 I'm guessing the 3S-GE applys to me even though I have the turbo... http://st162.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=343 Any one want to give tips on what to do? Also! I dont think I understood the blinking properly... so I'm gonna video tape it next time I have a chance.
Well, if those codes are correct, I'd check the wiring for your O2 sensor or replace it and check out your TPS sensor. Should be a thread around here somewhere on how to rebuild the TPS...I think.
TPS is my fault I disconnected it and forgot to plug it back in I also have error 54, which I first though was me not paying attention, but listed on a link in the link I posted... So right now Only real errors I have are O2 Sensor and Inter cooler... I'm going to check the inter cooler ECU (mafix said to make sure it was plugged in) and then see about a new O2 sensor... She's almost ready, once everything is good I'm scheduling my body shop and muffler work as close together as possible then I'm talking to my insurance and getting one way trip tags
split blocks = much pain. happened to my grandpa when he was trucking, halfway up a massive mountain, and after he'd already waited a few hours. major PITA.
