Severe grinding noise while braking.

check to make sure everything is bolted down properly...make sure that your caliper is working correctly......and uneven wear on the pads?

 

your caliper doesnt seem to be working correctly...your wearing too much and i dont think your piston is working on one side.

 

really have no ideas on checking that.......just looks like it isnt working on one side very well.....take it off and have it checked out.

 

Honestly I would change out the rotor and buy a new caliper. .......then if its still there we can go to the next step but I think doing that will solve ur problem

 

Yeah that rotor is definetely toast, so is that 1 brake pad. I don't know what
that crap is that is on that one rotor but its not good


Heres a bit of info on how your calipers work. Left an assembled caliper right
a disasembled caliper. The top piece of the disassembled caliper should have
2 pins indicated by the yellow arrow, the right one is missing. The pins slide
into 2 tubes in the bottom piece. The top piece is the piece of the caliper that
mounts to the hub so it never moves. It also holds the 2 brake pads in place
but just loosely the pads are free to slide in the top piece. When you press on
the brake pedal the bottom piece needs to be able to slide along those 2 pins.
When you press on the brake pedal the piston extends (green arrow) pressing
on the inside brake pad which in turn presses on the inside of the caliper, when
there is enough pressure on the inside pad then the caliper will want to slide
on those 2 pins which makes the 2 tabs on the bottom piece (red arrows) press
on the outside brake pad pressing it in on the outside of the caliper. So pull the
2 pieces appart and lube the 2 pins and make sure the 2 pieces slide pretty easilly.
I`m guessing right now the pieces are stuck together pretty good so it may
take a bit of work to get them appart.

Most people think it is the piston that seizes up but that is very very rare. The
most common problem is one of the 2 pins seizeing up. Thats why some of mine
are missing a pin, they`ve been used on another caliper to repair it.


heres a picture of the front suspension. Just make sure your axle nut is torqued
properly. It should be
1900 kg-cm or 137 ft-lb or 186 N-m


So I would buy a new rotor and brake pads, if you can free up the pins on the caliper
then its probably still okay. That is why your right wheel wouldn`t spin freely

The caliper isn`t releaseing properly so there is allways some pressure from the brake pad on the rotor.
All that grooveing is probably little stones that get cought between rotor and stuck brake pad.


I lube my pins every year.

 

yeah...i see your point on the piston......i usually just start there........didnt think of the pins....this is why several people get their heads together and you can learn new shyt.......


is it possible to over tighten your pins?

 

Well the engine uses oil not grease I`m sure your aware of that but just to be on the safe
side engines/transmissions/differentials use oil, ball joints axles and bearings use grease.
Pretty much any grease will work. I allways like to use synthetic grease so it doesn`t thicken
up in the winter time. I`m not recommending Mobil 1 just a conveinient picture.

 

:thumbsup: Allways nice to see happy Celica's on the road :driving

 

Now you can also practice rebuilding your spare caliper.
It isn't that hard and rebuild kits are cheap.

 

^Yep, nothing to worry about. I re-read the posts, I misunderstood; thought you bought a rebuilt caliper.

 

-ive found the best results with either silglide, or cnc disk brake grease. 09 would burn of any other type grease very quickly.

 

Thats beacause there's no pad left, you're looking at the holes in the backing plate



I hope you didn't forget to re-fit the driveshaft locking plate and pin? Why did you remove the driveshaft?