Project Rust Destroyer (56K W*A*R*N*I*N*G)

Excellent idea but no real need as they are on there real tight. I think the steel line is a slightly larger diameter than the metal tubes they attach to on the engine. I'm 100% positive there not going to leak and I did drive it quite a bit last summer when they were in their polished condition with no problems.

One could only hope that all encounters in life had that tight a fit if you get my drift

 

Got louvers ?





I read somewhere that toyota decided against louvers because Datsun (can you say RUST BUCKET) had used them on the
240z. Ah well to bad for toyota, I picked these up from some place in the states that knew they were for a toyota but
didn't know what model but they had the dimmensions of the unit listed so I grabbed them. Unfortunately they were the
last set they had. I have also seen a plastic version but they warp over time so I'm quite happy with the aluminum version.
Their also hinged at the top so they can be raised to clean the hatch glass.

 

Well since dirty deeds is now experiencing snow its time to start planning for my All Trac.
So I guess I'm going to go all out on this one and do my version of the IMSA Celica so I
need to get some measurements.

I can use ratio's to figure out sizes so width of hood is 7cm in picture actual width is 52"
overall width in picture is 9.5cm actual width is 52/7 * 9.5 = 70.57" current stock overall
width is 65"


width of taillights 16.2cm actual width is 61" overall width of new fender is 18.8cm
actual width is 61/16.2 * 18.8 = 70.79"


so 5 1/2" wider in the front and 10" wider in the back

So the most important thing for the car is going to be tire and rim size and I know stock alloy
rims are 14*6 and I've heard offsets from 30 to 40 so lets measure
depth = 12.9cm


now I need the inner and outer dimmensions of the rim lip
17.8cm
15.4cm


the thickness of the lip of the rim is (17.8 - 15.4)/2 = 1.2cm
depth = 12.9 - 1.2 = 11.7cm
center of rim = 15.4/2 = 7.7cm

offset = 11.7 - 7.7 = 4cm or +40

So a stock alloy rim is 14*6 offset +40

I want the biggest wheels I can fit it looks to me like the IMSA car uses much bigger than stock wheels
especially at the back but since I'm doing an All Trac my wheels will have to be the same diameter but I'll
still try to go as big as possible.


unfortuneately the front wheel is really the limiting factor theirs really not much extra room between the
wheel and the frame of the cab, from the door to the fender is 7"


and with the fender removed from the door to the unibody frame is 6.5" so I would have to say a 26"
diameter tire will be the absolute maximum I may have to use a sledge hammer and redesign the unibody
a bit just to get that to fit


now I need to consider the clearance for the strut on the inside so I'll check what the stock setup is
205 60 r14 & 14*6 +40


what I want to know is how much of the tire is sticking out and how much is sticking in useing the
mounting pad as a reference
sticking out = 8.1/2 - 1.6 = 2.45"
sticking in = 8.1 - 2.45 = 5.65"
so as long as my new tires don't stick in any more than 5.65" I should be okay the only other thing I
have to consider is the seat for the spring I think a 26" tire will still clear it but it is getting close if
the tire is to big I will have to move out another 2" so I would reduce the sticking in value to 3.65"


The easiest way to move wheels out is to change the rim offset so after a lot of searching I finally
found a 15" rim with a -38 offset. Thats a 7.8 cm move so thats potentially my rims
Anytime you get - offsets I think their more designed for trucks but I'll take them



front tire 215 65 r15 rim 15*8 -27
sticking out = 8.5/2 + 1.1 = 5.35"
sticking in = 8.5 - 5.35 = 3.15"

rear tire 275 50 r15 rim 15*10 -38
sticking out = 10.8/2 + 1.5 = 6.9"
sticking in = 10.8 - 6.9 = 3.9"

stock sticking out was 2.45"
width increase front = 5.35- 2.45 = 2.9" per side
width increase rear = 6.9 - 2.45 = 4.45" per side

I can't get 5X100 bolt pattern the best I can do is 5X114.3 which is the same as my camry
for the front I'll try to swap camry parts to match the bolt pattern but for the rear I'll use
some 1" spacers to convert from 5x100 to 5x114.3 so add an extra inch to each rear tire width

final width increase rear = 4.45 1 = 5.45" per side

 

Well hopefully you were entertained with all the sheet metal work I did on
Dirty Deeds because I'm guessing almost all the mods will be done with steel

I did a new internet search and found some more pictures ....enjoy opcorn














they must have produced a plastic model kit at some point (next 4 pictures)














tranny was rear mounted, tranny drove the altenator off the drivers side halfshaft.
Gotta wonder if your going to move the tranny back why you wouldn't move the engine
back there to. Best possible weight distribution when engine is mid mounted, no driveshaft
from engine to tranny saving weight.


finally I have an engine pic kind of
engine has been rotated counterclockwise 90 degrees
exhaust is coming out the drivers side going forward into the turbo charger
air is entertering the turbo on the passenger side from the intake at the bottom of the windshield
and flowing through that black plastic tube after that it gets a bit confusing, it looks like theirs
probably a second turbo ....
looks like all the exhaust/hot air components/tubes are on the drivers side and all the cold air/intake
components/tubes are on the passengers side




the above 3 pics are from this car

 

I'm thinking of doing the sunken headlights but I'll weld the headlight covers into the hood

EH???????? :eek5 no no no no no no noooooooooooooooooooooo

thats the beauty of it a whimpy little 4 cylinder rice burner went to north america
and smoked all the big boys in their v8's (first time I saw the IMSA Celica was this add)
475hp 4 cylinder Celica

 

I doubt that the offset would be what I want, I did alot of searching to substitute our +40
OEM rims with some that have a -38 offset for a whopping 78mm or 3" move
Add a 1" spacer for each rear wheel and another 1" since the profile of the wheel
is much wider and I'll be increasing the width of the rearend by almost 11"