My ride :) ST162 April 1986, ST165 R.I.P. Engine kept !

I think that's your problem - my GT4 was one of the last cars built and it was never an option or upgrade here

 

stig , epx clearly shows the surge tank....

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_1988_TOYOTA_CELICA_ST165R-BLMVZG_1603.html

but for japan market dont...

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1989_TOYOTA_CELICA_ST165-BLMVZ_1603.html

it is market type of thing i suppose, but imho pressuriesed tank is beter option....


if i am reading the epc right, after 05 89, the cars got it , but not sure all or some markets..

 

I think some early JDM's got it
The radiator cap pressurises the system, why would you need to pressurize it again?
My Alfa had something similar but the "reserve tank" had two lines - one was to bleed air from the top of the radiator and the other fed water to the lowest pipe in the event of a leak.
I'd like to build that setup into my car as it gives an extra 1l of water in an emergency

 

get rid of heavy servo pump, cast exhaust maindfold, put some pipe extractors with cheap t3 turbo , and put it in locost replica mated with w58 gearbox`rearend from supra... or build some dune buggy/auto cross fraser type of car




or buy a ke30 and put it in there

 

That's right, some time in 1989 Toyota issued a recall for the ST165 coolant overflow and had it replaced with a pressurized metal tank. They're hard to get because not all 1988 ST165 owners new about it or cared to take it to the dealer for the retrofit. Roy, if it comes down to it I do believe I have an extra one. Let me know if you'd like to give it a go.....GL!

 

clean shed!! looks like the perfect place for an engine project

 

Thats not a sensor, thats a cold start injector

 

a bit of heat will move it.

 

leave it you, have one 2 on st165 mainfold.... also , if u using stock ecu and wiering it is in use, use st165 throttle body, and rubber part, the fi60mm chrome pipe has snug fitt when u get your fmic... and u have the st165 instalation that has electric IACoposite the st162 that dont ,



delete egr in the procees, and charcoal canister..,

and yeas CLOCK THE FUCKING TAAAARBO NOW... DONT make thos shiti over the exhaust maindfol piping - reference the picture )



you need to grind the notch in lower area of intake maidfold ( look at your st 165 manifold when u remove the TB), u can plug the holle beneath the 5 injektor also...or put the WI sprayer there, or use 5 injector for it if u get some nice SA ECU ... ))

then u can use a egr hole in your manifold to put intake temp senzor for sa ecu /gauge... because you are get rid of egr shit Dont you ))

friendly advice: drill the holle larger for the egr that u have delted , so u can in the future put the bosch intake air thermoreresistor senzor in there,,, because you will need it if going SA (the only right route), so that u dont need to do it like i when the mainfold is on car... it needs only few mm bigger hole and tap for securing bolt,, im talking abbout this :



oh btw. i can give u a link for prety cheap but good intercooler just about the right size to fit...
i use a evo 6 one , but frend use that or his 280+ hp CS,, and many more guys on they drift cars over here..

http://shop.wiltec.info/index.php/cat/c189_Intercooler.html/XTCsid/s2an3d6aj0780mut6422j951u2

oh yeah, make some nice fi 76mm downepipe with flanage for ct20b cann provide cad drawings ;P, geting ridd of primary catalyzator (preberrably both off then) when are u in the process of making the pipes for your fmic, and also pick up a ct20b turbine form england for 150 pound for sale on gt4oc.. and put that on, ))) and 550 injectors for cheap , becuse u will get the SA sooner or later )

mine ;O)






oh, yeah put your 3sge cams in your 3sgte head when u are taking the mainfold off... a little thing but will net some gains

 

for true straith intake you need to ditch the AFM )) LOOL

 

hm,,,,,, if u have coolant lose when getting in the high temperature area. try to chek the co2 in your coolant , is it possible to get a hairline crack in the head or 20- year old oem headgasket is leaking. or did u change that when putting the motor in......

if the coolant is on higer pressure , it will star to cook later.. try to use some fresh red toyota coolant.. or something like type G12 coolant, id should stay liquid at 1 bar even at tempertures exceeding a 110°C

btw a friend of mine that has a 280+ Cs is using a trd cap and thermostat and even when we mallest the turbine with flat shift driving and lauch contorol turbine beccoming yelovish white off temperatures, we don get any troubles with temperature or coolant losing, or even the inffamous bubbling off the water that the 185 are infamous of.. , oh yea he got the tb COLLANT heating pipes deleted, if it is of some importance...


btw. another thing to take into consideration, u got a water to oil cooler/heater on the 165, termodynamics 1 or 1 says if your oil temp rises high your water temp will raise also...,