Yes... she used to be called Celibaby. The wife wasn't fond of me calling it the same as the first Celica I had... She met her untimely death after multiple repairs (HG replacement, PS hoses, cracked fuel rail, engine fire due to cracked fuel rail) when I sold her for $500 to a friend who needed a car bad (this was my 3rd vehicle at the time, had no room for it). She ended up blowing the engine and demanding her $$$ back because it wouldn't pass emissions (duh.. you blew the HG and it's burning the piss out of oil & coolant...). So I gave her her $500 back and donated the car to charity for $500. July 24, 2009 Bought Jasmine for $250. Clean body, no serious damange, clean VIN, no accidents, etc. Here's how she looked (previous owner's picture). Some better shots all around once she was in my garage. August 25, 2009 After some debating as to what I'd be doing, I proceeded to pull out the motor in preperation of the 3s-gte swap. October 14, 2009 Dealer pics of the engine I purchased October 19, 2009 5 days later: 30 minutes after arriving home:
Man I have a lot of work to do Cliffs: Need to install axles, buy fuel pump, radiator, have exhaust made, and get the lil' odds & ends I need to get it running.
Excellent work so far, and I'm so jealous of your garage :mrgreen So much space to walk round and polish
I meant as in fixing the thread Lost all the updates I had posted. I'm down to just some small stuff and should be good. Gonna have to do a junkyard run one day though to get some parts I need still. Pressure power steering line st162's speed sensor off the transmission (don't think the 185's will work, as it's a 3 wire instead of 2 wire of the st162) Speedo cables Radiator & fans
For the high pressure power steering line there's a great write about it I've been passing around since the normal one kinda.. well sucks! http://st162.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=3788
So last time I 'fully' updated the thread she looked a bit like this.... The full intake assembly is completed** **Few exceptions. Need to plumb port for PCV and another line that looks to connect to the stock intake box somehow into the fresh air intake pipe. Mounted intercooler (again) Clearance from turbine outlet and radiator. After installing the Autopwr radiator the clearance has increased between the radiator and piping. Very minimal contact between them now. Bottom-ish angle view of the pipe routing Cold charge off the cooler Cold charge to the throttle body with fresh air pipe & filter installed Hot side charge pipe. Once I cut the pipe I had welded together it gave that extra mm or two of flexibility that allowed me to make the bends/twists to connect and have it purty looking. Hot side by the radiator. While it looks like the fins are mashed, they're not (I straightened them out). There is no contact, I can slip a thin piece of cardboard between the coupler & the radiator. As far as the fresh air intake, I took Marshall's advise and cut the plate I made out just a little more to allow room for coupler to connect all the way. (yes I was able to 'hide' the clamp behind the plate for a more clean appearance). After buttoning everything up, she looks like this. Now where does this leave me? As listed above it’s really small annoying shit I need to finish up. Power Steering Install pressure line from pump and reinstall cooler line (if I can find it…:gulp: ) Fuel Delivery New fuel tank o-ring gasket for bracket and install tank Wire in new fuel pump relay Motor ventilation Need bung onto intake pipe for PCV with catchcan. Install BOV Connect boost gauge to BOV & vacuum lines (where the hell can I tap into this???!) This will be installed where the blue coupler is currently on the cold charge pipe right by the fresh intake pipe. Transmission problem Correct whatever the problem is with the shifter. I can’t grab any gears (well now I am able to grab some but not sure which ones). Stories I heard/read indicate I just need to get the transmission filled & spun up by the motor at an idle RPM speed to mesh all the gears and call it a day. I will still need to rip & replace the shift linkage on the case (fill the holes, redrill and tap) to properly secure them. Obtain & install spark plugs Fill up remaining fluids (coolant, transmission fluid with friction modifier, power steering fluid). Bleed & fill brake/clutch lines.. (still need a mr2 slave cylinder pushrod…..) Obtain & install radiator fans Obtain and install gauges (water temp, oil pressure & temp). That’s it.. I’m started! Once it starts I’ll take it and get the exhaust built by a shop for it. Then brakes & suspension before she’s 100% roadworthy.
Great update! Can't wait to see it running and all. I'm going to be undergoing this SAME conversion for my 162 so it's going to be interesting to see what is done. Although wish the website didn't crash so I could read the whole build thread. How much did everything cost you up until now?
I have a full build thread (with rants, rambles and facepalm moments) over on ctech still. Additionally, I finally got around to getting my site gallery back up and running that has all the pictures there as well. Jasmine's gallery I've lost count at this point of how much I'm into it... I think I'll be around $5000 total after she's running.
Found most of my receipts.. Engine/ecu/harness - $1200 Transmission - $950 Reseal kit (water pump, etc) - $450 Clutch - $350 (maybe $400, can't find the receipt for this) Random parts - $500 (mounts, crossmembers that i never used, trans parts, etc) Radiator - $150 (by the way I have contact information if anyone wants a dual core aluminum radiator for the st16x chassis for $175, sells for around $200-220). Intercooler - $400 (pipes, cooler, other parts to install it) Fuel pump - $100 Axles - $175 Yeah, so I'll be around $5000 once it is up and running. After that suspension/brakes will be done just edging the cost up a bit more. I'll still insure her for $5000 though. If (knocks on wood) something happens I'll at least be able to save most of the mechanical parts and suspension to swap to another one.
How are the smog laws around where you live? Did you have to modify some parts of the engine since the engine you purchase looks like a caldina engine only in japan?
Correct. I really wouldn't rather explain how I am addressing this on a public/open forum. I could install the necessary smog equipment (egr, etc) and then get it certified by a mechanic and then take it to the emission testing place and call it a day. Or I could take advantage of a loophole in the system.
DIY catchcan assembled & installed. I drilled the necessary bung on my fresh air intake, stuck a grommet & barb in there. The intake breather valve I just stuck a small breather filter on it. Power steering pressure line (which sucked by the way to install after the fact) and cooler lines re-installed. Due to mounting of the FMIC I couldn't leave it in the stock position. Right now I have it mounted behind the plastic grill above the intercooler. It'll work for now until I come across some metal and can customize my cooler line. I have a SARD R2D2 BOV installed. Took care of all the boost/vac plumbing now. I have NO open nipples to plug. I also have dual 12" electric slim fans mounted in front of the radiator. I'll wire them both into the cooling fan circuit. They draw 6a and move a shitload of air. Should be good for what I need. Oh..I also have a set of st182 Megan Racing coilovers on her Overall engine bay now (cleaned up a LOT).
Felt like updating threads today... It's been a slow work on her. Fans are mounted to the front. Need to wire them up to figure out which way is right to make them pusher fans. Fixed the shift lever bolts so it doesn't move anymore. Gotta re-assemble the intake assembly now (had to remove it to get to transmission). Spent the weekend doing the brakes and other suspension parts. Since I bought this giant lot of 90-93 Celica GT/GTS suspension parts, I figured I'd make use of what I could. So now it has SS braided brake lines on 3/4 wheels, new end links in the front, new end links in the rear and a ST Suspensions 7/8" rear sway bar. The passenger front wheel I need to work on. The nut on the brake line was rounded off. I am looking at getting a 9mm wrench and beating it until it fits on there that way I can replace the flexible line. Other wise I need to remove the flange/redo it (which I'm hesitant to do) or get a new hardline for it (which may be hard as i"ll need to get one from a junker). Anyway, onto the pictures. New front endlinks. Driver side I removed the sway side without an issue. The other one rounded out. So I broke out the cut-off wheel. used that and chopped off the nut, and then the nuts on the other side as well. Total time to replace front endlinks = 10 minutes. New front brake lines: New rear brake lines: Stock '89 GTS rear sway bar on top, Suspension Techniques rear sway bar on the bottom. Just a small upgrade. Passenger side shot with sway bar, new link & coilover. Driver side as above: With the suspension under load it looks like I have a pretty damn close to 90* from sway bar to strut.
Why does the new endlink look at tad shorter or do I need glasses hnoes :corsair :lachtot Good work dude :cheers2