I DID IT. Starting problems with the new JDM engine.

READ MY LAST POST.

Someone suggested this site to figure out my problem, I wish I would have found this site sooner. Below are the problems that I been having, I posted this on other sites with no answers.

This morning I got on this site and did a search for code 12 and I found a discussion, started by thrill, about it, but no solution. In this discussion Mafix suggested that it was the starter the culprit. Not so much the starter, but the wires. I went out and checked wires and noticed that that the black wire from the starter to the ECU was loose. I took the two bolts out to rotate the starter and noticed that the plug broken, it will plug in but not lock. I put the wire back on, tested continuity from the starter to the ECU and put everything back together. Now it was time to see if it would start and it did. I was so excited, I run into the house to do my dance in front of the wife and as soon is got in the house it died. It would not start again, I checked coeds and nothing. Tried it a few more times and nothing, but I got a code 12 again. Continuity checks ok from the starter to the ECU, so my question is. Are the wires inside the starter bad and not sending the signal? Do I need a new starter?

Any suggestion would be appreciated. Sorry for the long post, but I just wanted to give the whole picture of my problems.

Thanks,
Javier


Update:

I spend all day Friday and Saturday checking wires and I give up. Friday I had a code 43, No STA signal to ECU when engine stopped and engine running over 800 RPM.

I checked the continuity of the wire that goes from the ignition to the Igniter, Coil and Injectors. In they were good. I then checked the continuity of the wires that went for the igniter, coil, and distributor to the ECU. They were also good. I had a rodent problem, so I thought they might had eaten a wire. The only wires that I found bad, were the ones for the sunroof.

I put everything together tried to start the engine and nothing. I have no spark know, but I can smell gas. Not sure if it’s from the injectors or the cold injector. Checked codes again and this time I had a code 12. No Ne, G signal to ECU within several seconds after engine is cranked.

I checked connections, power supply to coil and igniter, and checked signal generator. I also checked the resistance to the coil and I have a question on that. The book said that the primary resistance should be 0.3-0.5 and secondary 7.7 –10.4K. Mine was 1.0 primary and 20.5K secondary. Does it mean that is bad? The book also asked to check IGT signal to the ECU, but I can’t find how in the book.

At first I had no gas from main injectors and now no spark. Could the Igniter had gone bad or is it the ECU? Does the Igniter control spark and fuel delivery?

I just don’t know what else to check and my brain is fried. Any ideas?


Previous post:

I have in 86' Celica GTS with the 3SGE engine. I just got done installing a JDM engine and it's not starting. At first it was just turning over and not starting. Today I spent sometime looking at it and figured that the cold start injector was not working, the temperature sensor plug was loose. After I fixed that the engine would start, rev up to about 1500 RPM's and die. So, the cold start injector is starting the car, but the injectors are not firing. I got a NOID light tester and checked the injector plugs for power, all of them blinked just fine. I bought an ohmmeter to test the injectors resistance. I tested the first two and they had the proper resistance, so I did not test the last two. I figured it should start with at least two good ones. I had an extra fuel pressure sensor so I also replaced that with no luck.

I don’t know what else to do or check. I keep reading my Chilton book and can’t find the answer. Can someone please help me?

 

One more day under the hood.

O.K. I finally had a chance to spend sometime under the hood and check something’s. I replaced the coil, I could not afford an original, so I got an MSD one.

In know I don't have the Code 12 problem, I have a Code 11 problem.

I replaced the Engine Main Relay and it did not solve the problem. I checked the +B/+B1 - E1 and it had 13.something Volts. Is there another relay that I don’t know off? Am I missing something?

I just don't know what to do anymore. If I can’t figure it out by tomorrow, I am taking the car to a shop. I really would like to figure this out myself, with the help of others, but I just can’t figure it out.

 

No extra ECU.

 

Thanks for the offer MITT4G, but I'm like four hours southeast of Scottsdale.

 

Did Troubleshooting that St165-2765 suggested......

and this is what I got:

I have 11.65 volts from E1 to +B/+B1.

I have 11.65 volts from +B-+B1 to body ground.

and from Terminal E1 to body ground I get -28.4.

What does the -28.4 mean? Do I have a problem with the ground? The next step after testing E1 to ground means bad ECU if OK or fix if bad. But fix what, the ground wires?

ST165-2765, thanks for all your help. None of these troubleshoots were in the Chilton book I bought.

Javier

 

OK so what to do?

Everything seems fine, voltage wise. By looking at the diagrams, it looks like it could be the fusible links.

I have read that they melt, become weak and you can’t tell. I removed them a while back, when I first starting having problems and they were corroded. I clean them, but maybe they are not making full contact inside of them.

If anyone has any other suggestions, they would be appreciated.

Thanks
Javier

 

I have a similar issue in my BMW. Open up your fusebox, and clean all of the ends of the fuses with some sandpaper, and also the terminal contacts. Sometimes if they become corroded, they can act up like this. If the fuses look like they need to be replaced, IE; pitting, or broken, then replace them. Remember, always look at the cheapest culprit first! lol

 

yea troubleshooting that one was a beast, and after all i did it ended up being the ecu giving me the issues. but do pay attention to these guys here, they know whats up.

 

No Luck...

Replaced the Fusible links and cleaned the fuse box with no luck. The weird thinks is the Vehicle ignited for a few seconds up to 1000 RPM's and shut off, then only to 500 RPM's. I checked for codes and I just got a bunch of blinks. I figured cool no codes, what else can it be? But, after messing with it and trying to start, I checked codes again and got that damn 11 code again.

Any way to check the ECU? From what I have read the only way to check is with a known working one. Is that correct?

Thanks
Javier

 

Quick Question?????

It seems that the injectors are not working, but the cold start injector works. I got some starter fluid and the engine starts and runs, but eventually shuts off. If I give it gas it bogs down. I got a noid light to test the cables and they were pulsing. The injector test at 13.8 ohm's. Some move from 13.8 to 14, but come down to 13.8.

I replaced the fuel filter. I tested the fuel pump and I can hear it run. The injector that I currently have on the engine came with it. The injectors have the brown top, just like the ones that I had on the old engine. So why are the Injectors not working? If I have some time I was thinking of putting the old ones on, but they test ok and are the same color as the old ones. So, what good is that going to do me?

Any Ideas? I was thinking of purchasing another ECU, a use one, and see if that helps. What do you think?

Thanks
Javier

 

YES

I still have the code 11.