bang for buck with your exhaust...straight pipe!! but thats if you dont mind the noise an the eventuality that you WILL get pulled over if your in anything besides a small town...i personaly love not being able to think in my cars haha (ive had too many straight piped cars ) but yea if your looking for pure performance...go balls to the wall, header, cat/glasspack (optional ) and 2.5/3" the rest of the way with a high flow muffler...oooooor run a standered exhaust with a dump before or after you cat
Get all poly bushing then coilovers, and then T3 arms. And Ya get exhaust idk lol if you go online andysautoparts.com you can get an idea of pricing and quality and then you can go looking around the wed for a cheaper price lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Take the advice of an Old School racer, build your car to handle and stop first. Power is great, but if you can't control it, it does you no good to have more power. I've raced everything from a 48hp Civic to my current 135hp Celica, and the lower horsepower makes you a better driver. What I mean, is you learn to maintain your momentum, without scrubbing off speed at the cars limits. I have long told new racers during the my years as a Driving Instructor for both BMWCCA and SCCA, It is better to drive a slow car fast, than to drive a fast car slow. One of the biggest mistakes I see newbies make, is to want more and more horsepower, before learning just what their cars are capable of with the power they have. My favorite and most rewarding racecar to this point, was my '84 Honda CRX Showroom Stock car, only the tires were not stock. This car taught me to drive at or just below the limits to extract every once of available performance. Please read the below article, and understand that it doesn't always cost money to make a car fun, but a willingness to live with its limitations and enjoy what it offers.... http://everydaydriver.com/awarnings/horsepower-corrupts/ racerb :corsair
[HR][/HR]Thanks everyone for the amazing information. Yes I am working on making the car fully stop and go but I'm getting a chunk of money soon and I'm among the idea of dumping the full $2k (hopefully that amount or somewhat close) into the Celica. I really need ideas and what not of what I should do. Headers are the first thing on my list. Next would be suspension and I need help on what kind I should get. As for the exhaust, what kind should I get as well? I'm not really a big techie person for Cars so please bare with me as I learn from the ST162 community. & wow Racerb, that was an amazing speech you gave me. But to be honest, I have quite the amount of driving experience for a 19 yr old. I have driven slow and fast cars. I just really wish my Celica was manual so I could learn.
You say something that catches my attention, your car is an automatic. Well if it were me, that would be my starting point for making mods. Look into doing a 5-speed manual conversion first, then work on making your car handle. It doesn't cost a lot to improve the handling, replacement inserts and struts from www.tirerack.com would be a good start. The replacing the suspension bushings and lowering springs from www.toyheadauto.com , also look for swaybars from www.whiteline.com.au , if these items are all still available. After you have done these things, then I would start to mod your engine or replace with a higher output and/or later model engine, possibly JDM version. racerb :eng101
Wow, this is some good information. Where could I find the conversion to making my car 5-speed? I'm really interested in doing that!
Check it out in the Drivetrain section of the forums, a few Members here have done the conversion, and have step by step photos and instructions to get it done... http://www.st162.net/forum/showthread.php?4368-Auto-to-manual-conversion-what-s-needed And this shows how to get it done.... http://www.st162.net/forum/showthread.php?5439-Joes-So-Cal-1989-GTS-coupe/page3 racerb
Damn well I'm in the middle of trying to decide what I really wanna do to the Celica before I get all this money! *sadface*
It will fit, but you have to do some mod work to make it work. The starter has to be moved over to the far left on the transmission, as on the GT chassis. This requires machining a starter hole opposite the original hole, using a GT flywheel (120 teeth vs. 112 teeth) instead of GTS unit, and GT starter. Your GTS clutch assembly will still fit and can be re-used. Oh and one more thing, the OBX header, doesn't match the exhaust ports exactly, but is only off so slightly, it will not hurt exhaust flow. racerb
Yes it is the same as a gt which is what is listed in the product description so assuming the seller knows what they are selling then yes.
i have an odd question. not to sure if it has been asked as i cant find any info on it (searched but not more than a page or 2 back) my question is will installing a header and getting rid of the cat make the engine throw a code? i live in NY and dont want to do a mod that will stop me from passing inspection. if i will still need to run a cat does anyone have a recommendation? also is there already a bung for the O2 sensor or will i need to install one?
There is no need to remove the O2 sensor Removing the cat won't make any difference, the JDMs have a cat sensor and even removing that doesn't make any difference. My 20c says your cat lost it's function years ago, they are finicky things and die easily
So I should be able to swap to a header system without complications? That's a good thing to know. Now I just need to look for a header for cheap. I have seen a few on eBay that are in my budget. Sent from my BLU STUDIO 5.0 C HD using Tapatalk
Hey thanks Stig. For that info. Quick question that manifold doesn't have the O2 sensor??? Do you need it??? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The o2 sensor helps control the fuel mixture, generally good to have it but getting a plate added wouldn't be too hard. My extractors had the O2 sensor hole right where it would hit on the aircon pipe!! ...pro tip* do not try and bend aircon pipes..... Extractors go a dream though, with the cat still there. Just be sure your extractors or the down pipe have a support back to the block/frame otherwise it pulls on the exhaust gasket and you get leaks, my problem I'm dealing with now
Ohh I see thanks.... Ohh I forgot I will be putting my 3SGE in my st. and I cant find headers for that any ideas????
Headers, hmmm... Well i got lucky on a local buy/sell site (Gumtree) and a guy a state over had a set laying around. Otherwise a local exhaust place quoted me 400-500 bucks. Just look online honestly, even MR2 ones "Could" be adapted, as the manifold should still be the same. I just found these suckers and i dont care what i have to weld up i want them lol http://www.empireperformance.com.au/headers/4-toyota-mr2-sw20-3sge-headers.html You should be able to find some close to home, or even just hit up some exhaust shops and see what prices they want, might get a good deal! Ive been told the 4-1 design goes the hardest, while the 4-2-1 is more spread power, though mine are 4 into 2 into 1 and all my power seems to just kick in at 4500 to 5500, as if the tvis, cams, and headers all have to work together to make a difference lol. Saying that, as soon as i put my foot down at any revs it definitely pulls a bit harder, it definitely has more torque than it did. The stock one is complete rubbish and weighs a tonne.