I dont know what it does. I'm thinking it is something set by the factory that is not suposed to be changed. If it is adjustable it should be in the EFI section of the manual. Mitt has posted a few pics of an AFM opened up down in the technical section but it does not show what that screw does.
Ok, tested the AFM and the values are all in range, except the value that it says the resistance should be infinity, i get no reading? Anyway, seems fine. Motor keeps throwing up a code 21, oxygen sensor, so i guess that will be getting changed. Whats that gona cost me though?
Alot cheaper than an AFM at around $700 US. An O2 sensor new from the dealer should be around $150 US
:shock: Wondered why the very cheap self serve wreckers here want 55 for an afm....... 150 us....hope it makes a big difference! I know this damn thing still doesnt perform how it should..
O2's make a huge difference if they are broke.., ive got 3 spares at my place, but im not sure if they are functional, not worth the trouble of the long distance shipping
Mephtar, thats very comforting. It runs real rich, even sounds a bit rough and constantly throws up the engine light for oxy sensor when i floor it after starting the car every time. Think thats where my power has gone"? Need reassurance
out of a full tank, probably out of 50 litres i would get 400-500kms, not too sure. Costs 75 bux to fill it usually! guessing u guys have cheaper fuel.... Im more worried bout the power though too.
Ok, yesterday i unplugged the o2 and drove the car. No difference, no check engine light no matter what. So i plugged it back in, and then snipped the two 02 wires to the ECU. Tested one to have voltage, the other didnt. Wired the one with voltage to both inputs on the ECU. Dont reckon it made a difference. I think its probably time to move on from the O2 sensor, but that is definitely weird behaviour i think. There should be a difference! SO now its on to checking if TVIS is working. I dont reckon i have any fuel probs, as it revs very smooth, just doesnt pull as hard as it should. My lancer is faster, with a 1.8 single cam making only 86kw, the celica should be making 103kw, with only 100kg more.... So i need to check all the vacuum lines for a start again, then its the electronic parts? Maybe I should wire up a TVIS light to see if the ECU is activating it? WHats the chance that the hardware inside the intake manifold is simply missing or broken? I should feel a difference about 4000rpm...........I feel nothing!
Anyone? Going to have to check all of the vacuum hoses very carefully. But the motor is still smooth and runs well, just SLOW! Need to get a new pcv hose as that has split too now, but that wouldnt make me lose like 20-3o kw would it? Going to take off the intake manifold to check the TVIS. But it looks impossible to get out.... :x Starting to feel pretty down about this car...
If the hardware was missing inside then the T VIS would be open all the time. It is more likely that it is not opening when it should and that would certainly reduce top end power. I will try to get you some pics of what is back there that you will be messing with First thing I would do is rig it to stay open all the time just so I could test drive to see if there is more top end power you will loose bottom end power with it open but if you notice more top end power then you could check the T VIS system more thoroughly.
Something to check if you haven't yet.... The ECU... I couldn't figure out why the hell my car was running like shit, had a flat spot at 6500rpm..... Turned out the ecu's O2 output was bad or something, replaced the ECU, ran BEAUTIFULLY......so.....yeah...might wanna give that a shot?
SO maybe I should grab an ECU from a series 1 at the wreckers to see if it helps? I can use the multimeter to test mine first right? I think i downloaded the page for that. ST165, that would help alot! How can i disable the TVIS? to see if i have a difference, then investtiagte like you say? I reckon it has to be this. All new ignition components, revs smooth all the way up to the limiter, just takes forever getting there! Really want to get this sorted now, this is really getting me down every time a granny rapes me from a standing start in her gopher....seriously.....
This is pretty much what you would see if you were underneath the car looking up. Hopefully your T VIS is sealed to the intake manifold a little better than mine. I think you'll pretty much have to work from underneath the car so remove 1 or both crossmembers to gain access. This is a 165 intake manifold so it may be slightly different but the T VIS is from a GTS. You are interested in the mechanical mechanism in the green box. Watch out for little plastic $en$or bit$ that like to break off. If your going to remove the intake / T VIS you should remove these $en$or$ first. If the hoses attached to the $en$or$ are brittle or stuck cut the hoses. Hose is cheap $en$or$ aren't. A close up of the mechanical mechanism. There is a little "C" clip (yellow arrow) that holds the vacuum actuator rod on the T VIS. It would be a real bugger to remove/ re install so just leave the whole thing connected. You should be able to manually move the actuator rod back and forth thus pivoting the T VIS mechanism which will open/close the valves. So make sure the actuator shaft is free to move in/out of the actuator. Move the actuator rod out as far as possible (green arrow) and find a way to prevent the T VIS mechanism from rotating backwards and closing itself and give the car a test drive and then verify that the T VIS is still wedged open when you return. Remove any modifications you made to hold the T VIS open and let me know what happened.
If you disconect the hose going to the actuator (green arrow) then the T VIS should stay in the open position. The natural position for the actuator is to be open. When a vacuum is applied at the green arrow it is stronger than the spring inside and the actuator closes and that in turn closes the T VIS valves. So try to get your hand up there and make sure the little rod moves in and out of the actuator. It should be in the out position but you should be able to push it in and when you release it it should spring back out. If that is okay and the rod moves then the easiest way to keep the T VIS open is just to disconnect the hose but you should plug the end of the hose with a golf tee or small bolt as that unplugged hose is like a vacuum cleaner and will suck any crud it can find into the intake.
Thats going to be fun to get at :? Excellent pics and info! Is there anything you dont know on a 4th gen? Thanks to you i now not only know what im dealing with and what it looks like, I finally get how it works. Your a legend
Ya real fun .....PITA Lots Its allways nice to know how something is suposed to work when your trying to diagnose problems with it.
Going to try to do a compression test soon too. Havent had time to touch the car, really busy at the moment How much work is it just to change the rings? My Haynes manual isnt helping much. Im guessing you would have to take off the head. havent done alot of work on a motor before, could get help though. The cylinders are in the head right, as are the pistons? Guessing once you get it all stripped down, you rip off the old rings, and install new ones and reinstall everything, fill with oil and enjoy? How much is a set of rings likely to set me back? I suspect they might be bad as it does burn oil, dunno how much, but you can smell it i think when you rev it above prob 4-5K. That likely t be losing me alot of compression and power? Just short on time atm, and trying not o spend much more money on this car. lol....................