Coilover Sleeves

i know ground control made a kit up at one point that fitted these. may be worth contacting and possibly even organising a group buy.

Flatliner (if you chime in here) care to ellaborate?

 

i bought them but sold them to another forum user for him on his earlier creesida.......i couldn't get them to work and the person who told me that he used them i cant get into contact with him to figure out what was up......sry guys i just didnt see this thread......


you would still have to round the bottom nut to get the sleeves to fit and then weld them to the strut....it could work and im sure that's how he did it....i just wasn't about to go that far....i would rather just buy the 900 dollar ones from aus land.

 

if you really want it lower...cut 2 spring rings from the front and one from the rear and you'l be as low as you wanna go....soend some money on those special nuts for camber and then get an alignment....roll your fenders.....thats how im sitting right now and its fine but i bottom out everywhere.......i still have to get my lazy ass and get new bumper stops installed.

 

just buy stiffer lowering spings. if you cut the springs youll loose sping rate (stiffness). and youll botom out everywhere, along with a boaty ride. no offense to anyone, but imo cut springs are uber ghetto....yes this coming from a guy driving around with an incomplete, unpainted kit and peeling paint. your pretty much destroying ride quality and handling for looks. seen a civic bouncing down the freeway latley?...cut springs.

-im very happy with my setup even though its more than the coilovers. i honestly cant figure out why id ever really need coilovers. other than finding a hieght i liked id never adjust them again. iirc race cars generally only run 1-1.5in drop max.

-again no offense to anyone (nate) just personall opinion.

 

:iagree

There's no shortcuts when it comes to suspension
Cutting springs is something we try - once, and then move on - wiser

Not only dangerous but illegal to do it, the site cannot condone such a modification

If you approach a spring manufacturer you can have springs made any size/stiffness
you want and the cost isn't that high either, many times another spring
fitted to some other car is what you need and already on the rack.

 

yep....i want to move on and the ride handle suffers and i know that....im just waiting to change to coilovers.......no offense taken

 

yep pretty much what bottoming out is....its where your struts and or springs are so worn out that they dont do their job anymore and when you hit a bump in the road it sorta hits the stopper alot harder than normal which than creates the loud bang.

 

cutting any portion of the spring will result in less spring rate. NO MATTER WHAT! if the springs are stock (no matter how old) the bottoming is a direct result of bad struts. either there is no fluid in the strut, the fluid has lost all viscosity, or the valving is so worn that its no longer functioning.
-springs will eventually loose some rate....but very, very little. the way i was taught is that you would only see a loss in spring rate in things like 40+ y.o. HEAVY cars. i.e. old school marrows, stangs, ect. a 25 y.o. 2500lb car would see very little loss in spring rate unless absolutly raped. i.e. offroad.

-again, as far as coil overs you have to ask yourself... am i actually going to adjust them other than the first time?

 

It's not just that. What the real power of this particular kit is, that makes it a better choice than other brands is the complete customized assembly, to suit personal needs.
About adjustment:
- height: yeah, you will probably adjust this once, but it's a great thing just having this option to set the height you desire, imo
- camber: adjusting is easier with the top mounts
- damping: quite easy to adjust this one too, probably you won't adjust it every week, but you can if you go to a track day or a longer trip (out of town)

Furthermore, it's not even that expensive, if you take that you are getting 4 struts, 4 springs, 4 top mounts and all the misc parts, it's about the same as oem. Of course this is a very unlikely event, that all of these parts will go broken and you have to buy everything at the same time But the more parts are broken, the more one "spares" on the kit.

 

hm how do you know whether it's the spring or strut that's worn? i bottom out and bounce a lot on the highway...

 

True. My struts aren't even a year old and I still bottom out going 40 or 45 in some streets with uneven surfaces. Railroad tracks that slope and then down are such PITA to drive through lol. And I made a hard turn once and I heard what sounded like my tires rubbing on the fenders. And this is on stock height! Though wouldn't mind the car being lower. It's a greater sacrifice. Driving slower is nothing bad.

 

If your car is lower, it can only be because of the springs (or your wheels are smaller diameter). The springs are holding the weight of the car, the shocks are to stop the springs from constant bouncing

 

Try pushing down on the car to see if it bounces. My struts we're the definition of dead last year. I tried pushing it down to no avail. Won't even bounce lol

 

Yes the st182 suspension can be fitted to the st162 chassis. Likewise is true for the st185 to the st165. You can not fit the st185 to the st162 or vice versa (st182 to st165).

The rear suspension is different between the two. The alltrac suspension has a shorter rear suspension due to the rear drivetrain.

There are a few ways to do this. You can swap over the st182’s everything (hubs, arms, etc) to the st162 chassis. Or you can drill out the st162 hubs to accept the larger bolts for the st182 shocks (IIRC it’s like a 19mm on the st162 and a 21mm on the st182). Or you can just use your old st162 bolts to attach the shocks to the hubs and a few washers to make up gap difference.

 

-hmmm, the shock does serve some porpose in bearing the wieght aswell. i.e. a shock/strut has to be able to bear some weight aswell due to the fact that the valving has to be centered to start. if the valve was bottomed out to begin with youd have stiff-legged the suspension. likley the gas/fluid has seeped out causing the spring to bear more wieght than it was designed for.

-i did notice with 09 that even with brand new struts it did bottom out under severe cornering (like really at the track cornering). i would be willing to bet though that all new bushings and top mounts would limit this severely. ill find out this weekend if "the dog" bottoms out.

-i honestly dont think springs "sag" nearly as much as youd think. i think the strut and bushings are just overlooked. tech school taught me that a spring will break long before the average person would notice rate loss. if springs broke all the time they would not be used. they are a very long lasting item.