i need a picture of the camshafts & the cam gears and the engine must be at TDC when these are taken HUGE thanks to whoever can do this for me.
its definately a 3sgTe head but its got the ge cams and cam gears. and basically everything else from the ge engine, the only 3sgTe part is the head itself, and the valves, springs and washers collets etc.
3SGE 3SGTE I got some pics for you. I'll do a writeup later. Sorry for the crappy head but its good for pics at least.
yeah its toast it sat in my friend barn for a couple of years and I think every pigeon in the world crapped on it.
whats the "famous" celica starter problem? i went out there, did the timing and went 2 start the engine and it wont turn over, just makes a humming noise.
The starter relay I do believe it is located beside the fusebox in the drivers compartment does not work so you get no power sent to the solenoid on the starter. BTW you should turn the crankshaft 2 full revolutions manually after you mess with timing belts and stuff like that to ensure that everything turns properly before you try to start the engine.
the part is 25 bucks from your local toyo dealer... I have a spair one (I replaced the one in the trac I sold Mike with a brand new one) any one want the original one it worked fine I replaced it before I read about the starter mod. yours for price o shipping
the engine doesnt wanna start at all just makes a noise, then when i eventually get it 2 start, it turns the engine over really really fast, is this still the same problem or is this somehting else
Well I'm not sure I understand exactly what your saying but it sounds to me like your saying that the car doesn't actually start but when the starter does turn the engine over it seems to crank really fast? If that is the case the only reason I can think off right now that would cause the engine to crank really fast is really bad piston rings and almost no compression(resistance) in your cylinders.
um, i ment turn over isntead of "start" in my last post, and the timing on the cams, to the rotor and crank are perfect, not even one tooth out, and theres spark, thumb compression test made a loud PHHHHSSS and INSTANT ENGINE STARTER did not work.
Well then were going to have to look at your fuel system then. You have "timing on the cams, to the rotor and crank are perfect, not even one tooth out, and theres spark, thumb compression test made a loud PHHHHSSS " So really if there was anything in that cylinder that could explode it would. It's 7 am here and odly enough thats my bedtime so when I get up I'll see what I can find for fuel system tests.
Well we'll start by seeing if any fuel is flowing. Find the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) and disconnect the fuel return line. From the pic below it looks like the top hose is a vaceum hose and the bottom hose is the return line. Put a rag under the FPR before you remove the hose to catch any gas that may be present. Put a piece of hose on the FPR return outlet and run it to a bottle or something to catch any gas. Crank the engine and hopefully it will pump gas into the bottle. This test will verify if there is fuel flowing all the way through the Fuel Injection system. Could you smell gas?
^I gotta say huge kudos to you for helping out on this and many other topics as well. A lotta guys won't take the time to explain or post helpful pics, but you always seem to. Helps to make this site a real community for us. Good job :wink:
Well thanks for that Rick Compared to all-trac.net I think for the amount of members we have here we get a pretty good response from members in helping out. We all have 20 year old cars and no matter what sort of quality you build into things everything is going to break sooner or later. So it is in every members best interest to learn as much as they can about problems these cars may have so they can perhaps monitor certain aspects of the car more closely. This is home to me. All-trac.net is okay but a few of the "GODS" :roll: are idiots You could probably find one of those "GODS" :roll: responding to this topic I posted Rear Wheel Bearing Grease Now I happen to know that he gets some of his parts from england at the same place I do and when he got a ST205 rear diff with a cracked casing for over $100 plus more than $200 for shipping he passed up a ST185 rear diff because it was not listed as LSD but he knew all 205's were LSD. If he had of been a little more diligent in his homework he would have known that LSD was standard on European ST185's. So for $40 I got that diff which is LSD and for $200 in shipping cause I got my own shipper I got the diff and a ST205 shifter sent over. Now putting a LSD inside the case is a pretty specialized task and he would have had to get it done by a shop$$$$. He posted on AT.net about swapping it into a new case :roll: All mine needed was a little media blasting (about 3-4 hours) So it pays to be active and learn about your car. Or you can wait till it breaks and hope one of us will help. 4TH GENS FIRST The fact that mine just happens to also be a first gen Trac is just a really fun bonus.
Hehe, the boys were really going at it over the grease thread, LOL. Nice rear diff, I painted mine yellow (!) but gloss black always looks good. Mine's a regular rear diff; nothing special (except for the colour).