Another NO SPARK issue

Here is a pic of the ecu.



Numbers are as follows >

89661-20751

175000- 3910



I guess if you have a low 1990's model ST185 celica ecu, it should be identical aye. Thanks for checking, see what you have and well go from there, ta.

 

Anybody know the difference by 1 digit less with this ecu. There is a ecu at a local jap import wreaker, but the last number is 0, of the 20751. the bloke said its off a ST185, so yeah, whats the difference. Could it still work with my setup.

 

Thats ok.


I just bought a $195 ecu and its still not sparking.


Im going to dump the car till further notice. Thank you all for your advices.

 

Ok, got some new updates.

I installed the new ecu, and now, there is signal whilst cranking to ignitor, approx 7 volts. The output of the ignitor to the coil is also charged up, so that means the ignitor is in A+ working order. I removed the dizzy and these were the readings according to the resistance check >

166 ohms
166ohms
207 ohms

All within range.


I will now do the last thing imaginable, replace the coil. I looked on ebay, and there is a coil which the guy tested at 10 ohms, so its i guess like brand new. My coil should >

Primary: 1.3 ohms (technically very bad)
secondary: 12 ohms (still within range)


I will update asap.

 

Just a quick question. Will this coil work with the celica GT4 setup >

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/380243597208?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

 

Just a quick question.

Does the coil have to be earthed aswell, or is the exposed metal plate just for heat dissipation only when bolted to the ignitor, metal frame etc.

 

The saga continues.


Major clue number 1:
The coil output (secondary lead to dizzy shows only 12 volts on cranking. Why such low voltage?

Open circuit relay working A+
EFI relay working A+
Coil working A+
ECU in A+ order
Fuses/links all A+
Dizzy A+, resistance within range
Ignitor has 1 volt signal from ecu
From ignitor to coil has 12 volts.


Wiring is connected A+.


So yeah, i am currently experiencing a curse.

 

BTW: all wires of the dizzy are getting voltage on cranking. So this would mean that the dizzy is working, re: the teeth and magnetic part of the inside rotor, you know what i mean. the gap was like 1mm.

 

New update.


Now, when checking resistance across the distributer terminals, there is new light to why there is no spark, i just hope its this dizzy >

G1 - G = 166 Ohm
G2 - G = 166 Ohm
NE - G = NOTHING, no results whatsoever. (should be between 155- 240 ohm)

This is the last straw to the standard ecu system and to this investigation. If i replace the dizzy and there is still no spark, im going aftermarket with a side intake manifold conversion.