-88 2.0 GT, 3S-GE turbo project Hello I bought this one last summer, july if Iremember correctly. It had been daily for a woman, who drove it of the road in 2001. Her husband changed new fenders, new front lights, did some weldings to the bottom and few other little things at the same time. He didn´t done it all the way and they forgot it to the garage till summer 2011. So it´s been of the road and in warm garage 10 years. But finnish weather etc. have done few rust marks everywhere. When I picked it up, it wasn´t in driving condition. Fuel tank was in a boot. When I took it of the trailer, rear brakeline snapped. After getting fueltank into a car and pipes for it fixed, I tried to get it running. It wasnt easy task. After research I found out that no.1 and no.3 injectors wasn´t working. I took those of, little bit power from battery and hammering and suddenly those were working. 10 years had glued them somehow. After that I fixed brake lines and checked that brakes were otherwise ok. After those I took first test drive. Everything felt and sound good, so I could start fitting turbo and exhaust manifold from ST165. Quite soon I discovered that turbo was hitting starter, because fwd have starter beside engine, not above tranny like in 4wd. Well, celica have same tranny like camry and camry have starter above tranny. I took camry starter and made hole to bellhouse for it. After that was made, I realised that celica fywheel is smaller than camry one. Damn, I had to take tranny out and put the camry flywheel on it. Same time while doing that, I changed ridig copper clutch disk. I also changed tranny to camry model to get starter exactly where it should be. Now I really had chance to start bolting on a turbo. I was mainly using parts, which I allready had. So exhaust side is from ST165, manifold, turbo, DP and CAT. After that there is stock 3S-GE exhaust pipe. It didn´t have CAT before, but because finnish regulations, I had to put catalytic converter to ensure that pollution level is not rising after this kind of things. It doesn´t have to affect really, because CO and HC levels just have to stay where those were before. So Cat is empty, only shell remains.... Right behind the front bumber is aftermarket intercooler, which have "nice" homemade duct to take fresh air under the bumber. Pipes for cooler are made from thick steel bends and tubes. Heavy, but cheap and can be welded myself. Otherwise engine is stock 3S-GE, enginemanagement is untouched besides of extra fueling in boost area. There is one 530cc injector before throttle body, which is run by little device my friend built. There are two things adjustable, start point of injection (now start in 0.1 bar boost) and the other thing is how rapidly it increases the open time of injector. Triggering for injector is from ignition. Basic ignition timing is retarded a little to prevent detonation. I know, not so good things, but when you want to do and learn by yourself and do it with budget, it works for me. Car was in dyno this tuesday and gave 162kW and 318Nm from engine with under 0.5 bar. There is a little leaner spot in approx 4250 rpm, not too lean, but effects to torque and power line. It goes quite nicely and I´m quite happy. This is a good start, or what do you think?
agreed with sean t-vis opens up the other 4 runners, so you have 8 intake runners now that's letting air in.
"There is a little leaner spot in approx 4250 rpm, not too lean, but effects to torque and power line. It goes quite nicely and I´m quite happy. This is a good start, or what do you think? " That is beacause of the T-VIS, all cars with variable inlet do that - I saw it on BMW M3 even As a test we disconnected the inlet and the motor made 20hp less right thru the revs and wouldn't rev out past 6000 With it locked open the bottom power was gone but it made the same power at high revs Nice build - only concern is that you make max power at 3500rpm and from there it goes bad and gets worse as the revs rise Fix your fueling, boost and timing and I think you'll make 300hp easy If detonation is a problem try using E85 (110 octane) or similar?
Well spotted, still 280hp using stock stuff isn't bad at all I was going to suggest some 91- 3S-FE pistons, they should be cheap and easy to find
at the 4250 area, the afr is in it´s leanest point. After that it started to get better after it´s getting littlebit too much fuel in the end. I´m going to think solution for that. of course, if I raise the boost, it will get leaner, but then it might get too lean in 4250 rpm area. These settings I have now are just random parts, which I had. Now I have somekind of proofs whats right or wrong. Thanks for cheering me.
it sounds normal...T-VIS opening at 4200 and timing advance at top end...what afr reading are you getting at 4250 and at the end?
It's pig rich, even at 4000 it's rich, not lean - optimum air/fuel ratio is 14-1 When the T-VIS opens you must expect it to lean out and then it corrects itself. That dip is only present as the flaps move Yeah - needs a lot more boost to see how it responds, at the moment the fuel is killing it above 4500 FE pistons: 1)Cheap 2)Designed for the 3S 3)lower compression 4)Strong, thicker rings etc
Now I got an idea (splendid if you ask me), and started to prepare my 162 for new paint. And on the other hand, I had nothing else to do, there is -30 degrees celsius outside. I get color for it this week and hopefully painting will be started next weekend. It will be good or more horrible than it was, we´ll see. Here is one stipping picture.
It´s not going to be original color. Original color have been silver or gray metallic. More likely medium gray metallic (159). Then this color is wine metallic (3G9), but I´m not sure of that either. New one is going to be completely different I would say You will see someday... I´ll take pictures and put those here when it´s done. I´ll try to do something with the wheels also, I just don´t like to 5 x 100 bolt pattern, it´s not easy. I believe that the car is actually -86, but registered in -88.
uh unless i read your afr chart wrong you are lean everywhere. absolutely everywhere. except after 6K rpm.
yes 14.7:1 is ideal on a non blown motor. but even that is incorrect when heat and load are involved. stock n/a cars are 14.7:1 untill 2500 rpm or so, then they go 12.5:1 to save the engine. blown cars are 14.7:1 out of boost the they ramp from 12.5:1 down to 11:1. 11:1 being for anything over 8lbs of boost.
Ok, now somebody is thinking way I´m thinking. I got bigger injector for my extra fueling system and next I´m going to ditch the T-VIS and we´ll see where afr is going.