ST162-7254182 "Dirty Deeds" Edited

Re: ST162-7254182

Busy day today. Got the old Camry off to the scrap jard. Now that that is gone I
can get some firewood in so I cleaned up the yard and made an area for it.


lol2

Yay noise day today....get to play with my favorite tools.


Started on the passenger side. Its not as bad as the drivers side was.


Another big hole in front of the rear fender.


I could have left the middle piece in but then I couldn't get the rust out from the
inside of the rocker panel so I cut it out to.


The passenger side rear fender had already been repaired once before in much the
same way as I repaired the drivers side rear fender but I guess they didn't get it
sealed to well cause it had all started to bubble out so I cut out the whole repair.
Still not as bad as the drivers side and the inner fender on this side is in better
shape to.


And the rear quarter panel has seen better days to


All in all not as bad as the drivers side, so its time for round # 2. coolgleamA

 

Re: ST162-7254182

You know I think thats exactly what I said when I got it all striped down.
Followed by "What a F...ing rust bucket"

Well I didn't get to much done today.....
I got all the pieces I painted the aluminum color covered with a clear coat


And I got all the pieces I had previously painted red converted to the aluminum
color. I know theres a little red on one piece but its a part of the piece that
was masked off so no problem there


I also picked up a can of the Rust Converter in a spray bomb instead of the brush
on stuff I normally use so I can get it into places I can't reach

 

Re: ST162-7254182

It's all good. Labor of love I guess. Allways liked working on cars so this is fun time for me.

It's only the first step meant to neutralize as much remaining rust as possible. After that I
will use a product like the one in the following picture which is a thich sticky oil like substance
that I will use on things like inside the car on fender wells inside door panels inside rocker panels
and any other place that is suitable. It never dries out and will slowly seep into crevices and
cracks. Since it does not dry out I wouldn't use it on the inside floor and other exposed areas
but anything that is covered by an interior plastic body panel will get coated.


For things like the inside floor and anywhere on the outside of the car like underneath and
inside the wheel wells I'll use the following product (Hi Build Rocker Guard Coating)

Well it does seem to have some sort of reaction with rust. In the case of this product it will
turn bare metal a dull grey color and where there is rust it will turn that spot black after a while.
15 years ago I could get a product called Neutra Rust from canadian tire and it would go onto a
sheet of bare metal clear and where there was rust it would turn that spot instantly purple and
within a day the purple spot had turned black. I drove one of my old vans around all summer with
a rocker panel that I had ground down to bare metal with a 24 grit sanding disk and coated with
neutra rust. The old rust spots stayed black and the good unrusted metal stayed clear. Canadian
tire doesn't sell that product anymore so I've switched to the rust check products.

All in all were dealing with steel. Ferous metals rust if unprotected. I use the rust converter
product after I have media blasted the parts to hopefully get any tiny particles of rust I didn't
get with media blasting. Then 1 or more layers of paint and finally a layer or 2 of clear coat for
any exterior parts. As far as I'm concerned their probably isn't any real big advantage to useing
the rust converter but it does seem to neutralize surface rust and gives me peace of mind knowing
that for the $50 or so that I'm going to spend on the rust converter that I've done all I can to try
and preserve the car.

 

Re: ST162-7254182

Man thats brutal Stig I think Australia is now off of my list of places to retire to.

I totally agree with you there Stig and as I have mentioned earlier in this thread

EVERYBODY SHOULD BE DOING YEARLY INSPECTIONS
OF THEIR 4TH GENS AND ADDRESSING
ALL RUST ISSUES IMMEDIATLY!!!!!!!

And to think this piece of junk I have now is legally allowed on the street. Since I
live in Quebec and I bought a Quebec plated car all I have to do is get my own
license plate ~ $80 and get insurance on the car ~ $200/year. Most other province
do require an inspection but I know in Ontario that just means you have to find a
garage that will take $100 bribe....

Heres a couple beauty pics of a tipical fuel filler pipe from rust heaven.

 

Re: ST162-7254182

I went out last night and got a piece of the rocker panel I had cut out and put some of the Rust
Converter on the left hand side of the panel.



And after 1 day it now looks like this. I didn't remove any of the rust I would normally
at least give it a good whack with a hammer to remove the loose flakey rust chips. It
could probably use a second coat.


Don't know why it didn't turn black like they show in the picture but at least it did
do something. Probably to much rust and not enough rust converter.

.
.
.
.

NEUTRARUST
This is the stuff I used 10+ years ago and I will be ordering and useing
it when I do my All Trac. Both the Neutra Rust 661 & Neutra Rust TL.

The only place I have found so far is in the UK NEUTRA RUST

Testimonial from site.

"The products have now withstood three years of continuous exposure
at sea and they have indicated their ability to withstand further exposure.
We are recommending to the Canadian Coastguard Authority that they are
approved for use."
(Canadian Coastguard Trial Project for High Performance Coating for Buoys)

Pricing Neutrarust 661 and TL 1 Litre Package Deal £ 35.00 plus shipping

 

Re: ST162-7254182

That is obviously the extreme case and certainly a good reason to keep up on rust control
but not the only reason and perhaps not the reason that would motivate most people to check
for rust. Probably the reason that will motivate most people is

SAVING $$$$

Alot of cheap parts that perform critical functions like to fail due to rust. As an example an oil
or dust seal

This is all supposed to be 1 part but the metal ring rusted and the rubber seal was no longer
glued to it and as a result the wheel bearing is exposed to nasty things it doesn't really like.
The result of that is a failed wheel bearing and that cost $ at a shop. Even if you do it yourself
its $80 for a new bearing and probably another $20 for 2 new seals.


You have 2 of these on each front hub. 1 on each rear hub unless you have a Trac, then you
have 2 on each rear hub and you also have 3 more oil seals on the rear diff.


For most people an automobile purchase can be the second biggest purhase they ever make
and yet aside from sending it to the shop when something breaks and the ocasional washing/
waxing of the exterior painted surface most people would rather buy a new car every 10 years
then do the most important thing. That being rust prevention, rust only happens to exposed
metal and even then its starts off relatively slowly.

I don't think rust can ever be totally prevented if you actually want to drive your car but it can
certainly be managed and if it is managed correctly I see no reason why your vehicle can't last
your lifetime.

Managing rust is not hard.

1) Find rust. (Not hard to do)


2) Remove all the rust you can. (you really don't have to get it this clean, a
hammer to chip off loose flakey rust and coarse sandpaper or a wire wheel
to get most of the remaining rust)


3) Neutralize the rust you can't remove. Even with sand blasting when the part
started of this bad chances are theirs going to be some traces of rust left. The
black areas is where rust has been neutralized.


4) Apply a protective coating to the repaired area.


5) Repeat process yearly. The first year will be the worst. Once you have the car
free of rust the yearly process should take a day or less. You'll only be repairing
rust spots that have had less that a year to progress and at that point it's only
going to be spots of surface rust.


If you did this every year to your car.
It would last forever.

 

Re: ST162-7254182

Went out and got wood for the garage today. 3 trips in the camry
to drag home this pile.



Then I don't know how many trips with the wheelbarrow to get it
all piled beside the back door for the garage.


Then I attacked the inside on the passenger side. The hatch floor.


The back of the passenger side rear strut tower.


The front of the rear passenger side wheelwell.


The front of the rear passenger side strut tower.


I did all that because if I'm lucky it not going to rain on tuesday or
wednesday and if that is the case I'm dragging the car outside to
sand blast it.The day I drove the car home it rained and since then
I don't think theirs been 2 days in a row when there wasn't the chance
of rain rant