so basically i know i have something wrong with the head of my 3s-fe, first cylinder, getting pretty loud tick/tapping sound, it definitely isn't coming from the bottom end. correct me if i'm wrong, but when i unplug the spark plug wire on the first cylinder, the tick/tap doesn't happen anymore, so it most likely is coming from there. so basically i have no knowledge whatsoever in engines. i do have the BGB, i've read it, tried to understand it. before i open up the valve cover, i should probably get a gasket set? any recommendations? when i do get to that step, i need to check the cam specs? valve shims? but i basically can't make sense out of the bgb. also the engine hasn't been taken apart before, so all the exhaust manifold bolts are all rusted i bet (the one i see right now is definitely rusted) and i've got one bolt to go for the heat shield. would i need power tools? or hand tools only + penetrating oil.
pb blaster. hit it a few times over the course of a few days, that should help. hand tools only. -could be a few things, but unless something is broken its likley the valve lash. unfortunatly the adjustment is shim replacement, so the cams need to be pulled. so you might aswell do the timing belt, ect. if you take it out yourself you should be able to have the head redone at a machine shop for around $500 including a re-shim. you can diy but measurements need to be acurate.
heh. for $500 i might as well get myself a beat up GT-S with a good engine/tranny and build it up. i might be grabbing rick's red lady's head, which would make things a lot easier. kinda funny how everything just leads to another. valves > cam > timing belt and water pump > gotta take out harmonic balancer > might as well do the crank seal...
Sorry, but this sounds like a small end going - which doesn't make sense as the FE is a press-fit A compression test may reveal a broken ring or cracked piston? Pulling the plug won't make a valvetrain noise go away but it will eliminate detonation from the top of the piston. Small end noise is normally worse when cold and can go away when warm. It's always best to re-build the motor completely (always keep a spare?) - cutting corners will only lead to more work, time and money in the months ahead I buy busted motors to strip for parts, keep the best bits and slowly (as money appears) re-do the spare engine untill it's ready. Saves a lot of time and aggro as well as buckled credit cards etc In your case I'd be looking for a 5S, 93- to re-do. Waay more power/torque and parts are cheap
i will do a compression test when i get tools for that. mine is different, the noise isn't there when cold, only when warm. i would seriously get into dropping the motor and rebuilding, but shit when a strata council threatens to fine you for doing an oil change in the townhouse complex, it's a no go. 3s-fe heads work with 5s-fe blocks right? and vice versa?
Yes, theres only 1mm difference between the two Having a decent workspace is a problem for many of us, we just have to find solutions for Right now I'm renting storage space where working is banned, just means I close the doors sothat nobody sees what I'm up to. When it comes time to swap motors I'll find a garage to rent/borrow for a weekend, it's not ideal but I won't let circumstances get me down
there is a 3sg on c.l. here in seattle. sounds like somebody bought a used jdm one and never installed it. they bought it from the place i got 09's replacement motor. they also have the gasket kit....$500.
