Taking my new 89sx to the 1/8 mild drags with worn sycros

Three months ago I purchased my pride and joy an Manual ST162 1989 SX with 150000 original

kilometers.
When I test drove vehicle there was a crunch between 1st and 2nd and 2nd to 3rd up or down.

Was told it was worn syncros but I still purchased hoping that a transmission oil change

might lessen this. There was also an oil leak coming from under the timing belt area.

I have been able to get the gearbox not to crunch but must let the revs drop first to

3000rpm when changing up or slow down a lot to about 20km/h when changing down. It still crunches occasionally if I don't get the revs right. The first thing I did within 1 week of getting the vehicle was do

a transmission oil change, putting in Penrite Multi Vehicle Semi Synthetic ATF MPH Smooth

ShifterX3 fluid.
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/automatic-transmission-fluids/atf_mhp_%

28semi_synthetic%29
Did not make much difference, just peace of mind.

Went to my local Tyre guy who checked over the vehicle as it needed a wheel alignment, and

was advised that the left hand CV Shaft needed replacing, the left hand wheel bearing was

worn, and the left hand strut top mount also had movement.

I had a mechanic install a new gates racing timing belt installed as well as power steering

belt and alternator belt, they also replaced the oil pump seal which fixed the leak that was

there.

There was no leaks after this so i did an oil and filter change using Penrite HPR 10/50 Full

Synthetic oil.
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/engineoils-products.php?id_categ=1&id_products=2
I noticed another oil leak but was not sure at the time where it was coming from. Two
weeks later after checking the oil found that the it was dirty again so I added a engine

flush and then ran the engine for a while until up to working temp and then did another oil

change. Oil is much cleaner now and last night finally worked out where it is coming from

then, found that the oil leak was coming from the rear upper left hand side of the head

gasket area, about 3 drops on the concrete after 30 min of driving after it cooled down.

Went for a drive today but can not see any oil dripping afterwords. I'm not sure if the oil

I am using is to light for the engine but the environment temp around the vehicle has been

from about 10-30 degrees celsius outside, even during winter when it was garaged. Have done

3 oil changes in 3600 km.

Since the oil changes it now starts a little lumpy when very cold 10-15 degrees , but after

less than a minute it revs up to 2000rpm like it is supposed to and then slowly drops(when i

first got the car the revs were always about 800-1000rpm and never changed), now once warmed

up idles at 700rpm and revs very smoothly throughout the whole rev range.

When driving if I stop and idle or put the clutch in the oil pressure gauge drops to 1/4

from 1/2 and as soon as the revs are up again it returns to 1/2. This only started happening

once I had replaced the oil and cleaned it out, nor sure if this is normal or due to the

small weep around the head gasket.

I will be getting a full compression test and leakdown test in 2 days, and will post the

results.

On occasion the revs on start up fluctuate from 2000rpm back to 1200rpm and back again until

it warms up, was thinking that the cold start valve might be playing up or even a flap in

the air intake might be sticking.

After I had the timing belt done the next thing was the front brakes which found shuddered

on braking so I ordered some new QFM (Queensland Friction Materials) Brake Pads (supposed to

be low dust and quiet)for the front and had them fitted as well as the front rotors

machined. No more shudder but then had a small squeal from the right hand side front when

backing down my driveway. Two weeks ago took off both of the hub assembly's myself to take

them to get new wheel bearings put in found when I went to take off the brake pads on the

right hand side it was missing the springs that separate the pads so I put new ones in. The

front brakes still squeak occasionally at low speed but I believe this to be because the

pads are new and still wearing in.

I had the left hand wheel bearing relaced with a new one but I had to supply another hum

assembly as the flange was badlt worn, and was able to replace the right hand assembly with

a second hand one which was in better condition than the original. I will sometime get this

replaced as well with a new bearing. Learnt to always check for movment where the bearing

sits on the flange if possible, to save having to get two pressings done. for the one

assembly.

I had the same mechanic replace the left hand side CV joint shaft 6 weeks ago(before I

realized that the brake springs were not put back on) and took in my own new CV Joint but

they did not use it and replaced the whole shaft as they broke teeth off when separating the

joint from the shaft telling me that it was jammed on(I was not notified of this and was way

overcharged, over double the cost price off the part and have since then decided to do my

own repairs using a service manual and some online research). They had to replace some

transmission fluid I was told so I have just replaced all the fluid again yesterday to be

sure. I compared the fluids and the new fluid was cleaner than the fluid that came out. It

still crunches occasionally but has not got better or worse.
I told them of their mistake with the brakes and I wont be going back to that mechanic

again.

I hope to take my car to a 1/8 Mile local drag meet in 5 days time just for fun in the 4

cylinder class. First time drag racing.

Does anyone think this gearbox would be ok for 3 drag runs changing up gears at up to

6000+rpms? Hope to eventually have the box rebuilt or replaced anyway.

I have used injector cleaner in the fuel tank twice and have always run 98 octane fuel since

purchase(is this fuel overkill or good for the motor?). Does running octane booster make any

difference.

I also have had the top tank of the radiator replaced three weeks ago and I put in all new

hoses and thermostat. Occasionally as it heats up after 10 minutes of driving the temp

gauge climbs up to near hot for less than a minute before dropping back to middle, where it

normally should be and stays there. If I was to turn off the car for about an hour and then

back on again it does the same thing again. Other times it does not do it. I let it warm

up from cold and idle for 20 min the other day and did not happen, but today put my foot

down after 5 minuted of driving and it happened again. Very intermittent problem. My

only guess is that I may have air trapped in the system. When I first refilled the radiator

after reinstalling it the temp gauge did get very hot for a while and had to top up the

coolant. Perhaps I did not bleed it enough in the firsst place. which may have contributed

to the problem.

My 3mm spacers arrived today for my new rims tyres 21540/17 arrived just now and I will keep

everyone up to date on the issue with the inside of the rear tyres hitting the bottom of the

struts where the springs sit. More info on this in my other post.

Was also wondering what sort of performance I may get as I have replaced tho old air filter

with a racing air filter similar to k&n in the original air box, and the car came with

extractors.

A bit long winded but I hope all of the detail helps others with any of there simmilar

issues.
I will keep everyone up to date on my progress and post some pictures shortly.
Thanks.

 

I decided to use this trans fluid as I thought that it would provide extra protection. And is the recommended one to use from the Penrite product recommendation.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

The ATF I am using is recommended by the Penrite Website and was hoping that it would provide better protection, as I may end having the gearbox rebuilt and improved if I can. I know that there are other boxes out there that would fit from other models, so I am not sure which way I will go yet. I can get it rebuilt back to new with warranty for $1600 locally, but will wait until it is completely stuffed.

I do have a Haynes Service Manual but I may take your advice and donate as well.

I did let the car idle up to temp the other day with the front of the car facing up the driveway and radiator cap at the highest point which I believe may have fixed the problem.

The shocks definitely need replacing all round and and the new 215/40/17 tyres hit on the front right guard over small bumps.

 

I believe you are right I have found that there are recommended penrite oils for these models. they are




HPR 30
HPR30001, HPR30005, HPR30020, HPR30060, HPR30205
Premium mineral oil formulated for use in conventional and turbocharged engines operating under a high load environment. It provides better oil pressure and consumption control and can be used where SAE 20W-50 oils were originally recommended. Not recommended for four stroke motorcycles with wet clutches.
Key Specifications: API SM/CF, ACEA A3/B3, Ford M2C 153-E , VW 502.00/505.00


or EVERYDAY 20W-50
PMO20005
Everyday 20W-50 is a high quality premium mineral oil for use in a wide range of vehicles. It is designed for non-European petrol engines (including older rotary engines) where SAE 20W-50 oils are specified. Not recommended for use in diesel engines or in motorcycles with wet clutches.
Key Specifications: API SN


or RACING 20W-60
RACING20W60001, RACING20W60005, RACING20W60020, RACING20W60205
Fully synthetic, full zinc, shear free high viscosity, high performance grade for use where SAE 20W-50 oils are specified. Suitable for a wide variety of petrol engines. Also ideal for four stroke motorcycles with wet clutches. Replaces SIN 20.
Key Specifications: API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B3, BMW LL-98, MB 229.1, JASO MA

Which would you recommend.

I plan on giving it a dyno tune eventually but before i do I will wait and see what the compression test says, and also would like to replace the plugs, coil, distributor and leads(perhaps larger ones).

What transmission oil grade would you recommend as i may give it a try and see if it makes a difference.

Thanks Stig

 

Hi trel162, I am going to take your advise and change the oil yet again tomorrow. with the 20w50 mineral before the compression test on friday. Did not realize that the engine flush could cause leaks and now I am not sure how to stop the leaks without replacing the head gasket, I have also noticed that there is small amount of oil just beside where the spark plugs are seated.
Thanks.

 

Should I keep using the synthetic oil for the drags or change to a thicker oil, will the engine perform better with a synthetic oil. Should I use a thicker oil before I have a compression test done. Does better compression mean more power.

 

Firstly i was thinking i was using a lighter oil being a 10w40 bit I will probably be changing to a 20w50 mineral based oil shortly.
I'm hoping that the gearbox will hold up ok, as most of the trouble is changing down gears, not up. ATF is what is recommended in the gearbox originally so i was assuming that a top quality gear oil of the same type would help to protect it. Unless perhaps I should be running a thicker gear oil due to the age of the car.

I had the compression test done and cylinder 1 was on 80psi and 2,3,4 were all on 120psi, these appear to be a lot lower than the original specs in the repair manual 178psi standard and 142 minimum.
Any thoughts on this.

I was originally going to possibly get my box rebuild and a new clutch for about $2000. But from what you are saying getting a low kms second hand box from a 1998 would be a better option, not sure of the cost as i have not concidered that yet.

There are only 2 drag meets left this season and due to my work hours I am not able to always get this time off to do it.
I just wish my car was in better shape, but still runs really well for its age.


I am still learning a lot about this, and hope my queries will help others too.

 

cost me a grand total of $650 tax in to get a 1997 box with everything changed except for axles. but since your motor seems tired with age, for $2000 you can get a BEAMS 3sge WITH a transmission for that price. 200hp? can't beat that![/QUOTE]

What you said sounds good but might cost $3000+ for the engine and box and fitting might be costly as I am not a mechanic, and there would be a lot involved.

 

There are a few cars entered in the 4 cylinder class, they are a Mitsubishi Lancer, Daihatsu Charade G200, Ford Escort, Holden Gemini, Alfa Romeo 75, 1990 Alfa Romeo 75, and another Celica possibly 5th gen. Should be interesting.

What figures and smoke are you referring to in the gears?

The left hand driveshaft is new and the right hand one is in good condition.

On testing takeoff if does tend to shudder in the front if I rev it to 3000rpm and drop the clutch, If i only rev it to 1500 and drop the clutch there is no shudder and less wheel spin.
And information for a smooth takeoff would be awesome.

I hope the shocks will hold up.