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Discussion in 'Group Buys' started by Redrkt01, Mar 12, 2012.
i can have the total cash for them within 2 week pay period. as long as it isnt over 400 total.
hmmm. yeah if i look @ whitelines site i can find what it lists as 162 bars but shows a pic of what must be a 165 bar....honestly havent got as far as calling anyone on them, like everything else its on my long list LOL. but if we can get a good price im in.
question? can you still get the top bars? both front and rear?
cusco...or if rkt can get a deal...
-sways should make a bigger difference, but in your case nate uppers will LOOK cooler.
U keep saying that....im confused....is it ur car or mine?........ill get to proformance soon enough...im working on suspension now...and these are suspension pieces right.....i mean come on dude im not completely all about looks.
187 what engine are you running?....curious.
Wagner, trust me when I say I've got the bars worked out. My own distributor doesn't know up from down on these suckers. They had to call Whiteline in Oz to ask if the bars they still list were 162, 165, or both. Rest assured that 162 bars are available dispite whatever it is they have pictured. There are no 165 bars left so there can't be a mix up anyway. On top of that, I have price sheets from Whiteline that are at least five years old that show both the 162 and 165 bars. So I can tell the difference. And if I climb under my car I can still see the information sticker on my front bar. I know there is a fair amount of confusion in these respects when my distributor knows less about the cars in question and the parts made for them. In the 0% chance you got something delivered that isn't what you need/want I would make it right and source the correct part or offera full refund. No one gets screwed by me.....that's the least I can do.
My original 94k miled fe.......this is y im in no hurry to swap just yet....but soon.
I thought so. I asked because the suspension upgrades I made to my 162 when it had the FE were the best upgrades to the car. They made it faster than anything you can do to the engine. What the car will allow you to do is drastically different once the suspension is tuned to make the most of what little HP you have. And my philosophy is that you take car of this kind of stuff before you put a different motor in it. Brakes ans supension first, always.
for both bars, they come with their own bushings that go into the stock brackets?
curious as to how is the front bar an upgrade? my front bar is at 25mm and this one is a 22?
My thing on the swap is im not sure I wanna go turbo....im looking into maybe a 5s swap.....with or without turbo....i dont have the skills to build...but im learning.....but yes for now I want flatliner to hold the road as if shes on rails....ill be getting a full bushing set from u soon as well....im also reading up on 205 brakes and spindles....but thats off topic.
sorry nate, just havent giving you crap in a while. lol. Imo if you dont go turbo stick with a 3s. my own personal track experience shows a stock celica with 3s will smoke both mr2s and celicas w/ 5s. basically just by the ability to out rev em. much more rappy, rev happy motor. imo sounds way cooler too.
Rkt. no thats great, I hadnt put much into finding out, i always assumed when then time came id be looking for a used set, always had my eye out for something to pop up.
-entrax/rkt. im reading 24mm front, 13mm rear. the 25 could be at a bend or dirt, tilted caliper? I would assume if it is indeed a smaller diameter bar, either its a different steel alloy or spring wind (manufacture process).
Yes, they come with polyurethane bushings that go into the stock brackets.
You know how a RWD car "power slide" through a turn? That is known as oversteer. In a right turn you'll turn the wheel right and the rear tires will break grip allowing the nose of the car to "over" steer the car. Works same way when you turn left FWD cars have a very hard time doing that. Out ST162 are the kings of understeer. You turn the wheel and it doesn't repond enough. Imagine you're sliding toward a curb on ice and you turn the wheel only to keep sliding forward. That's understeer.
If you thicken up the bar in the back and use a skinnier bar up front the car will tend to get more sideways. Nothing close the RWD oversteer, but aggressive enough that you'll wonder if you're really driving an ST162. I added my tower bars and my sways at the same time so I can't tell you what it's like when you buy any less than the four parts I installed. Along with springs, struts, and poly bushings my car rides on rails.
thanks for that rkt!
well damn, too bad we can't just get way bigger rears...30mm bars please LOL
so i was thinking about this all day at work...im not sure rkt has explained well. no offense. Ill see if i can keep it short.
-over and under steer are 2 different conditions. they happen at different times during a turn and for different reasons. one cannot be countered by the other....e.g. de-stabalizing the rear doesnt fix understeer it just makes it easier to throw the rear around....not exactly what you want. you want the most stable car posible at all times during the turn. think of a stabalizer bar (sway bar) as a secondary spring. its made so you can have a soft spring and then under heavy load it will become exponentially (sp?) stiffer. so soft/smooth ride while safe under evasive manuvers. manufactures could just fit a heavy spring but the ride would be to hard for most. basically your fitting a heavier bar to slow the body roll into a turn.
-think about a sharp on ramp at a fast pace. you turn in, the body rolls and youll feel the suspension get stiffer and stiffer until youve "hooked" the turn. the problem is if you come in to hot and/or jerk the wheel your "throwing" the vehicles wieght to the outside rather than shifting it. on a hard turn nearly 80% of a cars wieght can be on the 2 outside wheels, this is why race cars can put the 2 inside wheels in the dirt and still have traction around a turn. if you throw your car in you can "shock load" the car and put say 130% of the wieght on the outside. this will cause you to loose traction. a stiffer bar in essence should feel like its kicking in sooner or that you have a heavier spring and you can ease the roll better.
-imo over/under steer are better addresed with camber/toe adjustments. i would imagine bars would exagerate whatever your set to. -2.5 deg can be achieved from the stock adjusters on the front, a little toe out and the understeer will be gone. makes for very fast corner entry, but will kill some tires.
I wouldn't say we're "de-stablizing" the rear. We're stiffening it up. if we keep the body roll to a minimum and keep everything square through the use of a sway bar and a strut tower bar the cars rear wheels will better follow the front. If anything, we're making the car more stable. By tying the the two wheel together through the use of a lever we'll apply more grip to the inside of the turn when weight is applied to the outside of the turn. And by keeping the body square we'll ensure minimal roll, keep the car flat, and keep maximum traction.
The power slide analogy probably was the wrong way to go. However, I will say that to state having the rear end come around isn't desirable is probably overdoing it. Everytime you see a race car get even the least bit sideways, the rear has broken loose. They want that in a turn. It is probably their fastest way through the turn. Although it could be construed as "unstable" it is controlled instability. What you don't want is soccer moms driving around with new tires upfront and old ones in the rear. Cause when they break loose she's underprepared for the oversteer.
getting a little loose with the facts here
There are a few good articles online if you guys are interested in learning more about suspension tuning
Instead of sharing my version check out this link
^Probably so. There is no easy explaination from my point of view. The upgraded swaybars are just a piece of the puzzle when it comes to improved handling.
so we gonna get em?
still kinda waiting on prices......ill still be in tho as long as prices dont get above 400.
Nate, if I sold you these for retail it wouldn't amount to $400....maybe after shipping it would, but if shipping weren't a factor it would be about $375 for both.
How about this: Anyone here who has $400 to blow right out of the gate should PM me. $400 is the barrier to entry for the next step. If your finances are shaky and you can't afford to upgrade your car unless it is the perfect price, then I can't help you. And you shouldn't be allowed to hold everyone else back. I need to come up with a fair price for people that want swaybars now and can pay for them. That's hard to do if I figure a price for a total of eight bars (or however many) and the price isn't good enough for that one person. It's $20 too high.... so now I have to reevaluate if it's even worth doing a group buy and everyone is potentially let down. That's my rationale. SO if you can afford retail today, then we can talk about going lower tomorrow. If you've got $400 to blow PM me. Once everyone has PM'd me I'll send a message to everyone on the list for what I've figured up. Nate and jwagner are on the list. Who's next?