hey guys having problem with my ecu. dont know if anyone is up with all this shiz biz. but my ecu might..... Might have shat the bucket. every time i run the car im getting my nock signal probem in the check engine codes reset the car and it done it again. got myself a new knock sensor and thats not the problem either. it keeps saying theres a problem. changed the wire. still no result. i didnt have a knock tester when i bought the new knock sensor. but i managed to get one and test both knock sensor over the wire leading to the ecu and im getting response. so theres nothing wrong there. so ive come to the conclusion the knock setup in the ecu that recieves the knock has gone kaput......... so im wondering if anyone know the layout of a 165 curciut board because i have been denyed a loan to get my new ecu so thats off the list. no the only thing i can do is test the ecu some how so far i have had it apart and there is no pyhsical sign of damage to any curcuit so im prosuming it within something that has failed. any help would be great.... and i dont want people telling me to go buy a new ecu cause that will fix the problem. i know that but i cant afford one so this is my last resort Cheers Sean
if it comes down to it i will have to find another ecu to try. since i got this ecu from the uk for 20 dollars i dont see yh i cant find another one
If you know which wire is the knock sensor then you sould be able to figure out which pin on the circuit board connector is for the knock sensor so follow that pins circuit on the circuit board. I like to take a top down photo of the circuit board so I can put the picture on the computer and enlarge the image to make it easier to trace the circuit. If you use a paint program you can draw a line along the circuit. Then you'll have a good reference when you look closely at the actual circuit board. I have never seen any documentation on the internal workings of any of the 4th gen ECU's
yep, like dave said trace from the wire. -stupid thought. and i dont have a knock sensor (nor do i know how they work), but wouldnt you want no signal from a knock sensor? -also i wonder if you could create a situation where the ecu assumes your knocking because of something else. say wierd afm or o2 readings, and throws a code?
id like to think that there wouldnt be a signal from the sensor cause that would be the car was perfect. but they are desighed to listen to knock witch is nearly always going to hapen in a turbo car mainly when on boost and if there is they pull timing out of the ignition so it takes the knock away. and because i have knock in my car now. if you even attempt to drive it. it is horrible. it boggs down and takes ages to rev and then when it does boost spikes past 12 or so. but to make things better i may have found the problem in the ecu. there is a little thing on the board that doesnt allow the circuit to travel from the pin all the way to the knock chip. but on the other side it does sim im thinking its fecked
Right well I think I might have found the problem with a capacitor.... So I've found the value and for a new one 30cents for two. So if this fixes the problem it's a 15 cent fix lol but if it doesn't it's not worrying me
There have been a number of cap failures on later ECU's - ST185 and ST205 but this is the 1st I've heard of on ST165. The "bad cap" syndrome applies only to caps made in Taiwan during the 90's so I don't think it applies here. This 185 has burst the cap and also burned a resistor quite badly
it would have been great mafix if it fixed it but it didnt. and another ecu will have to do. but the guys from my electronics place said that it was stuffed. it just hadn't failed in a big way. but he did turn around to me and tell me that there could also be something else in line thats fucked as well we dont know of. but meh worth a try i guess. so now im after another ecu
no bought another 165 ecu and it ended up with the same problem. i now have an aftermarket ecu which still uses the standard knock sensor and cable, so i know that it was the computers
The second computer only cost me 100 dollars. But the new aftermarket one has cost me 900 dollars. For that price and the amount of functions that come with the computer are amazing. If anybody is interested in specs go to www.adaptronic.com.au and he ships to anywere, and he helps me personally through any problems I have
The other computer worked for a week and then did the same thing. That's y I bought another sensor and changed cable over 5 times
Well I actually sent the guy a 165 ecu pinout and then he matched all the printouts to his computer. I made my own plug loom to attach to the original loom plugs. But there are extras that are on separate plugs. I only for a half meter loom and you can get a 2m loom
