Over heating problems

well the noise could be a shot belt, pully, pump ect.... as for white smoke ima put money on the hg.. check your oil, if its milky or you have oil in your rad, its a hg,. do a cylinder leakage test. and put the cylinder to the 160 odd psi (as per the gauge) on tdc, compression stroke, take off the cap, if you see bubbles... guess what . . .

 

quite a pretty penny if a shop is doing it. i would imagine anywhere from 1500 and up. sorry to hear that.

 

93 dollars for a hg from partsource, id recommend a full top end kit, and diy. BUT if your car blew the head, it blew it for a reason, the head is probably warped now, and will need to be machined down. you may get away with just slapping it back together, but it wont last.

 

Yes you can do it without removing the motor but not advisable unless you want to do it again soon.

The heads warp very easily when overheated - needs to be skimmed flat
The block warps around #3 cylinder - ditto

While it's out, its probably a good idea to recon the whole motor

 

looks like you have yourself a project here my friend. . .

 

Well it may not be so bad

How many ks has it done?
Is it the original gasket & seals?
How bad did it overheat?

If it's the original gasket (they turn to snot after 20yrs), the motor has low ks and the motor was switched off as it overheated - then I'd say take a chance on the gasket and new seals

 

Another good argument for using studs...



8mm Allen keys snap at around 80Nm

 

make sure you pop off the head bolts in the right order, or you risk warping the head even further. do this for the cams as well, for the same reason, yes cams can warp too. it takes alot of doing to warp the block. but checking for flatness with a straight edge and a feeler gauge wont hurt. take your time with this, it can be f-d up pretty easy. make sure your parts are kept in order and nice and clean.

 

A good upgrade while you are doing this, is to invest in some ARP head bolts, but its a bit of a ball ache, torquing them up, Mafix and me chatted bout this a while back, will dig out the info for you.

Have done both head change with engine in and with it out, Out is far far easier if you have access to a engine crane.

Got to say, it would be good to know why your HG popped.

Is car running standard boost, how new is the water pump, etc

the two reasons mine went pop were.

First time, the new re con head I fitted, had a tiny warp :? my bad, should off had block and head sorted before matching them.
2nd time, head lifted, due to either a boost spike, or ARP bolts torqued wrongly.

IMO its very worth while finding out what went wrong.
get a good quality gasket set, its worth changing the cambelt / tensioners and water pump at the same time.
Make sure that you use the right gaskets for both manifolds, I used inferior non metal gaskets for one, no end of issues.

great time to get your injectors cleaned now

all the connectors are different, so its not to bad a job with the electrics.

HTH

 

arw nuts mate, just read your car thread. Sounds like it was the rad, even with a stock car, the stock rads are poor.

Make sure you get that head skimed and re surfaced if it checks out okay. chances are its like a banana.

also check the top of the block, make sure thats straight and true.

I will keep my fingers crossed that you dont uncover any further nasties.