hey guys I got my 89 162 back on last saturday. i have been a little busy not being able to post some pics up of it, but i swear i will get to it as soon as i can. i think this is the only burgandy/burgandy colored one on the site. anyways i had a friend of mine take a fast look at the car for anything that he could spot wrong with it. he was a tech for 5 years and gave that up for business. anyways he says i have a slight leak from my oil filter and what could possibly be either the distributor o-ring or the cam oil plug? the oil is apparent under the cap on the block. he also said there might be a leak on the back valve cover. anyways i was wondering if anyone has had the same leaks? what did you end up doing? i will post pics of the leaks this weekend. i am going to try and see if i can tell how bad they are. gunna use some brake cleaner to get rid of the apparent oil and then wait a week to see what comes back. hopefully not much. thanks for any help...comments...and questions! -Scott
Valve covers are notorious for leaks because they use screws to hold them down not bolts. You can get bolts from 2srus but be carefull not to overtorque them or you'll crack the covers. If your valve covers allready have bolts and not screws then you may have a cracked valve cover. Distributor O ring is another commom oil leak. Oil filter may just be oil that leaked out during last filter change or perhaps a poor job of cleaning the surface on the block that the filter seals against. To quote one of the lads from All-Trac.net “Its not an oil leak... Its sweat from all the horse power!â€
so just out of curiosity how does one go about changing the distributor plug o ring? never done that before. also i should be ok using the brake cleaner to clean most of those gummy oil spots right? just make sure i tape off openings to electrical? i do have the screws instead of the bolts. how bad are the valve covers to change? the front looks fine, but i am still not sure bout the rear. thanks for all the help guys! much better than any forum I have been on
Well the O ring is pretty easy to change. Take off distributor cap and check the position of the rotor cap. When you put the distributor back in it can either go in the way it came out or it can go in rotated 180 degrees. ( your car will not run if its rotated 180 degrees). remove bolt 90119-10204. You should mark the rotation of the distributor in relation to the block before you remove it so you can install it in the same position. (this is how you set your timing so if you know how to do that marking the position is not as important) Once the bolt is removed pull the distributor out. Remove old part # 19107A put on new part 19107A and re install. You may have to take the distributor cap off so you can rotate the distributor shaft so it lines up with the cam shaft it conects to. This is the 180 degree thing I mentioned above. Have the rotor in roughly the same postion as when you removed it and then rotate it slightly clockwise/counter clockwise to get it to fit with the camshaft.
hey does anybody have an alarm on their car also? i am afraid to disconnect my battery and then having to reprogram the alarm if i end up doing this. any way to bypass that? thanks for the help st165
Valve covers are pretty easy to remove. -remove screws 90159-60226 (6) that attach part 11219 to the valve covers and remove it, part 11214 (4 pieces) will come off with it - remove the hose that connects to the front valve cover - remove screws 11201B (12) from the valve covers, the screws on the back of the back valve cover may be a bit hard to get at and you may have to remove a few hoses to get at it - lift the valve covers off, gasket 11213 will probably come off with the cover. Be carefull with the gaskets they can snap if their bent too much
Hey no problem. I'll post it once and next time I can just link to it. I'll probably make web pages for them and stick them on my site.
also wondering if i end p replacing the screws with bolts, there are the little rubber washers that go around the screws, do i need to get new washers or are the old one reusable? i believe it is part #11201B. thanks!
u dont "need" them. Im running bolts with a washer and my car hasnt had any problems. thikning about it my might be an anti vibration thing, but im not to sure
You can get this kit from Twos R Us for $16 Heres what they say The stock Toyota valve cover bolts have a Phillips head and are very difficult to tighten to the proper torque specifications. As a result, these bolts tend to vibrate loose and cause your valve cover to leak. Several owners have found these bolts to be finger tight at best when inspecting. In order to solve this problem, replace your valve cover bolts with our hex-head bolts. What you get: 12 18-8 Stainless Steel replacement bolts 12 replacement sealing washers - Neoprene bonded to Stainless Steel Proper Allen Wrench for installation of these bolts The say "12 replacement sealing washers" but I don't know what they are sealing. The bolts are outside of the gasket so theirs nothing to seal. As Mephtar said it may be to absorb vibration. If your old washers are okay i would re use them. Just make sure you don't torque the new bolts to tight or you will crack the valve cover. This is perhaps why Toyota used Phillips head bolts.
I need this kit for my GT-S. And something to get the old screws out, as they all have stripped heads. Fuckers!
those should work for our gt-s'. as for the stripped heats. shit go to a aftermarket parts store and ask for a stripped screw removal set. i got one at kragen and then returned it. what it usually is that you tap the taps into the screw and use that to screw them out. might be a little hard for the rear cover cuz the screws are a pain anyways but try your best. i would stay away from harbor freight though. worst service ever. asked for the threaded screw removal set on sale in their add, no one could help me. what is the point in having an add if you cant help me find the stuff in it.
Dremmel or rotary tool with a flexible extension shaft and a cut off wheel to cut a slot in the top of the old screws and then a flat bladed screw driver.
I used to do that when I fixed distiller's...those screw's and bolts were always rusted from the steam....
