Hey what's up! So my Celica haves an oil leak, i asked here, i posted pictures and some of the guys here told me that it wasn't the oil pan (i was thinking it was that) that probably was a main seal. Link to the pictures: http://www.st162.net/forum/showthre...py-Owner-amp-Member-Here!-(LOT-OF-PICS)/page3 I need to get this fixed ASAP as i drive my baby everyday to college and i don't want it to get damage! Besides, sometimes i have to put oil, and the level is very very low. I found this set, For $46.17, i think that replaces all the gaskets in the car? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...sPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en#ht_1794wt_1035 That's what i need, la set like that that replaces everything, so it GET FIXED! lol Let me know what you think guys, Also, planning on changing the oil & filter, what oil do i use? and the filter, do i buy no brand or oem? maybe k&n? Thanks!!
Off hand I can tell you that's wrong. Toyota motors don't use the cork oil pan gasket, it's all FIPG. For like $175 you should be able to get a full gasket kit for the motor from Toyota. Front main, rear main, intake/exhaust/head gasket, etc.
Thanks! I called my mechanic, he came here, and diagnosed the valve cover head gasket! I'm buying this one from oreilly, http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...=Search_02313_1273980_2089&pt=02313&ppt=C0026 And hes doing the work for $25 tomorrow!
This is interesting and I quote........... " Cork is original equipment for the automatic transmission pan but as you've said, FIPG - Toyota's part, is the recommended sealant for the oil pan. This is the first I've heard it would be less durable than cork. The first time I tried installing the pan, I was overly conscious of the time limit for placement and did smear it. Had to wipe off the freshly applied material and reapply. In the process of removing the material from the oil pan I sliced my finger. Being dedicated - my only concern was whether the bleeding would slow me down. It didn't. I realize this all sounds like an advertisement for cork preformed, but I really appreciate the continuing engineering improvements in the Toyota, and always stay with the factory recommended procedures and products - so if you use sealant, I would not be substituting for the Toyota part. I developed a slight leak in the coolant recovery tank from abrasion against the mounting bracket. Tried using RTV silicone for repair and it failed soon afterward. Tried FIPG material and it is still holding strong with no sign of degradation. That is also the only material I use at the points on the valve cover gasket. BTW, standard silicone seal with acetic acid curing agent can damage the oxygen sensor when fumes enter the port open to atmosphere. My understanding was that FIPG on the oil pan can last apx. 10 yrs. I made sure the sealing surfaces were antiseptically clean and the materials were applied in the specified time. Everything looks very solid. I understand the most critical area is to apply the bead very close to the rear edge around the area of the rear main seal to avoid leakage in that area. The FSM has a diagram and I think Haynes also, but the idea is just to go close to the edge in the back side of the pan "
I'v got some toyota liquid gasket and it's excellent shit but can be messy and not necessarily needed on valve covers being at the top of the engine with less pressure. Cork gaskets are fine for valve covers and will also 'settle' after wrenching with no problems but be carefull not to over tighen at first. Clean up the surfaces and install the gasket and start the car to operating temp and re-tighten a tad more. Do this a couple of times over a few days and it should be sweet. Don't over tighten because you may spit the gasket and have to start again :banghead
Thats quite a bit of wrench work for $25. I did all the gaskets (except the rear main) and it definitely took a few hours to: Jack up the passenger side of the car. Remove wheel and underguards. Remove cruise control. Disconnect power steering from the bay and move aside. Remove alternator. Remove valve cover. Remove timing belt cover A. Remove timing belt cover B. Detension tensioner and remove timing belt Remove crankshaft bolt (PITA without air tools.) Using a harmonic balancer pulley, remove the crank pulley. Remove camshaft pulley. Unbolt and remove exhaust camshaft. Unbolt and remove intake camshaft. Remove camshaft seal. Remove waterpump. Remove oil pump cover. Remove front main seal. Replace all seals, water pump, timing belt, idle/tensioners, etc. That should cover every oil seal but the rear main. The rear main involves dropping the center crossmember and transmission which I have yet to do however looks like I have an All Trac in my sights so it may not happen anymore.
Hey, crank pulley removal without air tools is easy. 19mm wrench or breaker bar with a 19mm. Stick it on the bolt, blip the starter for a split second. It'll break right loose.
The "Burp car" had a similar situation during the time it was deadlined for the temp sensor issue...I just tightened up all the panhead screws on the 3S-GE and made sure the grommets around the valve covers were good and no more oil leaks. Some of the screws are tuff to get at around the TVIS intake. I would guess that your engine would be similar, however my gaskets only have about 30,000 miles on them since valve job. All in all it's a pretty hokey set-up compared to the Datsuns I deal with everyday...I still would never get rid of my GT-S even though it's front drive and my friends say that it's a "secretarys car"..but I ramble... Vicdat Vicdat
