For the last month or so, I get a sputtering/slight jerking upon initial acceleration. This is regardless what gear it's in. After initial acceleration, the engine runs smooth again. Now, in the past week, I've been getting another issue, which is stalling. This happened a few times on the highway and when I've stopped. When on the highway, it stalls for about a second and then goes or resumes again. When I've stopped, I've been able turn it on again, although one time I had to wait a minute. Thanks
Sorry for the long delay in getting back. I have since been observing the car's performance. Thanks for your posts. I removed and inspected the air intake tube. It appears to be in good, almost new condition, no visible cracks or signs of brittleness. When I put it back on, I put on the screw/clamps tightly. The sputtering/jerking however continues. I now have a more pronounced issue which I believe is related to a worsening of the sputtering/jerking. My car now stalls and will not start at times. Here's what happens while driving and starting the car... While driving, the engine will stall/jerk, but will catch on again because of car motion. When starting the car, the engine starts for a second but then dies. Putting on more gas may help or "fight" through the sputtering, though I can't recall if I've tried this the first starting. When trying again for a second time, the engine turns over less, and dies. A third time, the engine does not turn over. Please note: I then can wait about 2 to 4 minutes and the engine WILL start again. The engine has also stalled when coming to a stop sign. If can't get it started, I again wait a few minutes and then it starts. Bump starting DOES work. Thanks, Breck
I hope it is the fuel filter because it sounds easy to replace (haven't done this yet). Good suggestion on duct taping the intake. To all, by the way, I searched this site I found a thread whose car issues were exactly like mine. If you care to read it, the link is pasted below. It's a little technical and I plan to revisit it again, but as I understand it, the resolution was sought in the electrical system. Or ignitor? Grounding? Perhaps I'll PM the member, but I wanted to share that link. Nonetheless, I'll still plan to replace the fuel filter. http://www.st162.net/forum/showthread.php?1431-Random-Stalling-Ignition-Trouble&highlight=stalling
it was resolved by removing the ignitor, clean up the surface for the ignitor's ground to have good contact. as well as adding dielectric grease.
Thanks. am I cleaned the ignitor ground and applied dielectric qrease, however, issue persists. That is, I AM able to get to car started and idle for 20 seconds before it stalls. And will not start again. If I wait 10 minute, I can repeat this process again. I just removed the fuel filter and I tried to blow through it (from the top, correct?). It does have a moderate resistance but it does blow though. Is this normal? Any else that I should consider? Thanks again.
due to the fact that it idles for 20 seconds i'm lead to believe that this is a fuel problem...but i don't wanna make ya drop your tank to get to the pump just to check it...
Well, thanks again, and I may just need to replace the fuel pump. Never done this before and hoping to ask some basic questions. So that you know, I have an 88 celica GT. How is dropping the fuel tank done? And the fuel pump is in or on the side of the fuel tank? Where is the fuel pump located roughly? For example, underneath the back seats? I have two ramps about 10 to 12 inches high. Should I use them underneath the back tires? Or the standard car jack on one side?
Quicker question perhaps... As I was looking at the charcoal canister, it has two connected tubes on top, but also has underneath a tubing coming out a few inches that is not connected. Is this underneath tubing supposed to be connected? Not suspecting this is the issue, but thought to ask.
i have no idea about the charcoal canister... but the fuel pump is something i know more about. the pump is inside the tank, not accessible from the inside of the car (only the fuel sender is), no other way to it. dropping tank: - i used two jack stands to lift the rear of the car. put it as high as you can. then i used a jack to lower/raise the tank -5 pipes, all driver's side (left), 3 small rubber hoses in the front of the tank, 2 rear (one filler hose, one vacuum tube)... -then you take off some covers on the passenger side (some protecting the exhaust, some protecting the tank itself) -then towards the rear of the tank, the two straps are simply bolted onto the car...14mm i think? the strap comes down, tank can slide back. careful, cover up the hole for the filler pipe as gas can pour out from there. -once it's out, it's a matter of taking out the pump off the top of the tank and replacing
Hey, thank you for these great detailed instructions. Sincerely appreciated. I plan to do this on the weekend and will post an update. Thanks again.
I believe the issue is resolved. I would still like to drive it more, test it, but I think things are looking good. I already purchase the fuel pump and was ready to go at it, when my neighbor across the street came over. He's a handyman and he began looking under the hood. He noticed that when the car stalled, that if you hit or tap on the intake air sensor with a wrench or something, that the car would start up again instead of having to wait 15 minutes. Therefore, his recommendation was a new intake air sensor. Autozone and Kragen had them priced about $200, but I lucked out at the wrecking yard with today being 50% off, $20. I installed it and it seems to run fine. Thanks again for all the help. I've also bookmark this thread for when I change the fuel pump. Donation time. Cheers, Breck
