Just got my injectors back from Witch Hunter. I decided to spend $17/injector to have my original Nippon Denso units cleaned and balanced rather than $75-125 an injector for rebuilt aftermarket ones (they aren't really rebuilt anyway, they're just cleaned and balanced and resold). Here are the before and after test results: Static Flow (difference from lowest to highest) Before: 89 - 97 After: 101.5 - 102 Pulsed Flow ((difference from lowest to highest) Before: 70.0 - 78.5 After: 78.5 - 79.5 cc/min @ 43.5 psi: 306 cc/min in all four two busted pintle caps - replaced one leaking injector - no longer leaking; new o-rings and seals on all at least two filters visibly crappy - four new filters Injector balance (lower is better) Before: 10.8% After: 1.3% For $17 ea. I have essentially four new injectors. Oh, the dealer price for my injectors is $196 ea. Along w/ new intake gaskets and the proper supports attached to my manifold, I think my troubles are soon to be far behind me
Gotta imagine it's more thorough. The process was multi step (three seperate tanks, I believe) plus changing all pintles, filters, o-rings and seals.
WOW, that's a pretty big difference! Good choice on your part 4-sure. I don't think your injectors are the problem in your case. I think you have the same problem I had. Either/or/combination of bad plugs, wires, rotor and cap. If you don't do all, the "tune-up" really isn't a tune-up. It's an easy DIY job as long as as you have the $ to buy the parts. -K
Brand new rotor and cap, wires, and plugs were installed just weeks before I bought the car. It idles really high (1100- 2000rpm, depending on engine temp.). It's at the shop right now, they are installing drivers side half-shaft.
Do you have any adjustment left in your idle screw? If not, you may still be having an air flow problem. Since I'm sucking air past the AFM and running lean, the engine wants to rev higher to compensate for the lean gas mixture. I expect (hope) to see a big difference after I change intake gaskets and install correct injectors. It is possible your injectors aren't pulsing enough fuel, but there's probably other things to check off the list first before going to the trouble of removing injectors. When does it rev high, cold or hot? What does it do when the temp changes - go back to normal? That might help someone here to trouble-shoot it for you.
It always idles high. Cold it is around 1800-2000rpm, after it's been driven for 15 minutes it idles around 1000-1200rpm. Cutting off the A/C drops the revs, but they are still well above 750rpm.
Mine idles around there when cold, too. But drops down once engine starts to warm. Have you adjusted your idle screw all the way down? Also, sounds like your AC actuator is adjusted too high if turning off the AC drops the idle. You know where these two gizmos are located? Idle screw on throttle body nearest engine. If you're lucky, you still have the black rubber cap. If not, you'll just see the recessed screw. AC actuator is at far left on front of intake manifold. It has vacuum lines coming from cruise control and AC Idle up VSV (mounted next to windshield wiper motor on firewall). AC actuator has big plastic screw (usually white). Adjust screw w/ AC on and your idle will go up and down. Probably should do idle screw first (engine at normal operating temp), then turn on AC and adjust AC actuator so revs stay between 700-800 w/ AC on and off. If this doesn't help the AC idle speed, your AC VSV may be shot. BGB has easy tests for AC VSV. If you've no more room w/ idle screw (i.e., it's screwed all the way down), then it may be running lean (like mine) and trying to suck in extra gas to get A/F mix to 14.7:1. Have you run a mechanics stethoscope all around intake - tvis air control valve - cylinder head to check for gasket leaks?
Cars at the shop right now, so I'll check the idle screw when I get it back. I'll also check the A/C actuator, thanks for the tip. I have a month without my license to just dick around, so no big hurry. I'll be cleaning the TB/intake mani soon.
