electrical igniton idea?

Discussion in 'Diagnosis/Help' started by Sterling, Nov 22, 2007.

  1. Sterling

    Sterling Guest

    ok i figured it out
    my coil is fucked..

    after trying 2 find out why i had no spark, i finally noticed, after turnign the engine over a few times the coil was fucking hot! it was sizzleing!!

    so yeh i need a new coil...

    would this coil work?

    http://www.beachbuggy.com.au/shopping/s ... asp?id=150

    i happen to have a brand new one lying around.
     
  2. XR Pilot

    XR Pilot Well-Known Member

    Nope, those coils aren't designed for electronic ignition. Your coil may not be the problem, it is probably getting hot because the coil negative wire is shorted to ground...
     
  3. Sterling

    Sterling Guest

    explain.... how does the wiring work, the 2 wires went straight into the loom.
     
  4. Sterling

    Sterling Guest

    ok i went out to the car again, and plugged a jumper pack into to wires then into the coil ( i did + and - in the right places )

    and it still got really hot, no spark at all.

    any opinions?
     
  5. XR Pilot

    XR Pilot Well-Known Member

    No, the coil does NOT just get 12v straight to it, the negative wire is switched by the ignitor on-and-off, the coil is "not turned" on as such. Check out this rough scan I did from the BGB of the wiring, it might give you some idea how it works:

    [​IMG]

    At this stage I suspect the wiring to your ignitor has been damaged or your ignitor has failed. If you look in the wiring diagram, the + wire on the coil goes to igniton-key switched 12V (I cut it off on the scan, but trust me ;)) but you can see the negative side of the coil does not go to battery negative, but is switched by the ignitor which is controlled by the ECU.
     
  6. Sterling

    Sterling Guest

    o ok, thankyou so much man

    but did i blow the coil? or is it still ok? still dont have a multimeter
     
  7. Sterling

    Sterling Guest

    how do read the codes? it says B W B R and such how do you use the coding to figure out what wire is what... or maybe i havent searched the site hard enough lol :p
     
  8. Sterling

    Sterling Guest

    ok disregard that, i figured it out, and now one last question

    down the bottom of the picture, it says intake manifold

    does this mean 4 wires connect to the manifold somwhere? i remember seeing a bolt that had 4 wires coming off it.

    and using a curcuit tester there is no power at the coil's + and -

    I JUST DONT GET IT :'(
     
  9. Dman_23

    Dman_23 Guest

    That part that says intake goes to the ground point on the intake - should be a couple brown wires with a crimped on eye connector that bolts to the intake.

    It might be useful to read the front section of the BGB about the circuit diagrams and compnents, wire colour codes and such.

    And you may have overheated the coil with the jumper pack. But provided the distributor, wires, and plugs are good, the coil and igniter are good things to check. I am not sure exactly how to check them though.

    You likely won't pick up the signal with a standard multimeter very well. I assume you are cranking the motor while you're trying to check it. If you aren't, there won't be anything. (unless its running, but we haven't got that far yet)
     
  10. Sterling

    Sterling Guest

    hahah shit i am dumb lol im not used to EFI and Electronic ignition,

    ok went out there again, and got my mum to turn the engine over lol and the coil IS getting flashing power and is sending current out the lead (i got zapped when i grabbed it and touched it 2 the head) but its the distributer! that isnt sending a current to the plug leads!

    alright so distributer & cap..... the rotor has a mark on it where its been rubbing on the new cap so i no thats contacting, and the other 4 points in the cap have a dot on them..does this indicate there was an arc? and the rotor IS spinning, and everything in the dizzy looks normal, nothing broken or such.

    so is this the immediate call for a new distributer? or is there hope yet?


    OR----------------------------------------------------------------

    scratch all of that, could the igniton timing have stopped a spark coming through? the dizzy was put back in by me, right in the center of both bolts (not retorted, not advanced).. is this right?


    thanks any more help at this point is soooo greatly appreciated!!
     
  11. Dman_23

    Dman_23 Guest

    How about pull out one plug, put the wire back on it and hold it a grounded object like the head? Hold it with something insulated to avoid a shock. You'll be able to see the spark if the distributor is working when you crank the motor.

    As far as timing goes, you should definetly time the motor with a timing light. But they are triggered by a spark plug wire, so no spark = no timing light. Timing alone shouldn't stop it from running, it would just run rough. You can't just center it and expect it to be right. Remember for timing you have to jump some terminals in the diagnostic box.

    Since you just put this motor back together, were the cams set in the right position when you put the timing belt on, and did you put the distributor rotor back in the right position?
     
  12. Sterling

    Sterling Guest

    how many different ways are there to put the rotor on? theres a flat side on the shaft and it slides on right?

    and the cam gears have little nipple marks, and the bgb sed to point them up. and the no1 piston to TDC, so i did that.

    and as for the spark, i put the a working plug in a vice grip, and clamped it to the head, and there was no spark at all when the engien was turning over.

    and i got the coil and touched the coil's lead to the head while the engine was turnign over and there was a shock.

    so its obviously got to be the distributer? or is it more ocmplicated?
     
  13. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!


    There is only 1 way to get that rotor on without large hammers.

    However there are 2 ways to install the disributor. My guess is you need to pull the distributor out and rotate the shaft 180 degrees and re install it.

    So remove distibutor cap and note where the rotor is pointing. Then unbolt the distributor and slide it far enough out that it clears the camshaft and you can rotate the rotor 180 degrees and then slide the distributor back in and tighten it back up.


    Other than your spelling its right enough to get the engine to fire.
     
  14. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!

    This is for an 88 All Trac but it should be the same for you.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. Sterling

    Sterling Guest

    i took off the distributer cap, and put the engien to TDC and the rotor was pointing in the opposite direction, so you were right, but i pulled it out and went to rotate it, but remebered, when i put the thing in, the metal points that stick out of the end, and go into the camshaft end, are off center so u cant get them wrong... so i pulled it out anyway and it cant go back in any other way, so i thought hmm shit ok then maybe i should put the plug leads in the order according to where the rotor was pointing, so i did (or i think i did, the only one i no was in the right spot was no1) and i got spark for no1 cylinder, but not for any others

    this is getting weird, coil works, coil lead works, brand new dizzy cap and rotor, plug leads work, plugs work, and the igniter works....

    i think i might need a new distributer assembly? as the above papers say.
     
  16. Sterling

    Sterling Guest

    ok disregard that

    i wrote that before i went out again, ok,

    now instead of rotating the rotor shaft, i set the engine to TDC, and the rotor pointed at 3 instead of 1, so all i did was re arrange the firing order, now the cylinders and numbers written on the cap dont match but the spark still goes when its needed.

    I got spark on all 4 plug leads now, but i need new spark plugs...mine are toast, even tho they are practically brand new, think it was the car they came from ( i got them from a friend )
    so im getting new plugs afterschool tommorow and ill see if it runs!

    hopefully! :D
     
  17. Sterling

    Sterling Guest

    hmm filled the tank to about a third, changed the plugs, and what, the engine DOES NOT run!

    WHAT THE FUCK

    so yeh as u may have guessed im very pissed off.

    ill make a new forum in diagnosis..
     
  18. Sterling

    Sterling Guest

    hmm filled the tank to about a third, changed the plugs, and what, the engine DOES NOT run!

    WHAT THE FUCK

    so yeh as u may have guessed im very pissed off.

    ill make a new forum in diagnosis..

    who ever reads this please help me
     
  19. XR Pilot

    XR Pilot Well-Known Member

    I'm guessing either your not getting a good spark, or you have your timing wrong. You definately have something wrong when you said you had to swap the plug leads around and they no longer match the factory markings. Find out why they don't match, and fix that first.
     
  20. Sterling

    Sterling Guest

    well, when the engine was at TDC and cams where in there proper place, the distributer rotor pointed to plug no3 not plug no1 and st165-2765 said, to spin the rotor shaft around, but the noches are off center, so i just re arranged the plug leads..... right?
     

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