Not sure if this is the right section for this, but I know people will follow and enjoy my re/build log so here it is. I picked up my new 2nd gen 3S-GTE sans manifolds and auxiliary parts today, I haven't done much to it yet because it was dark when I got it home but rest assured I'll be stripping it down and cleaning it as soon as I can. Here's a couple of pictures of it as it is now: YAMAHA And the turbo I'm going to be using in the build: TD04L - 13T AFAIK This might be a bit of a slow build log, but I'm planning on making it as detailed as possible so that it can be used as a guide for anyone else who wants to rebuild their 3S block.
I saw that, I think it's safe to say it will put out enough air to give me a fair bit of power! And yes, I did get both things for chips Engine for $300 and turbo for $80.
Removing the camshafts, cam gears, shims and buckets I won't show removing the valve cover, fuel rail and top timing belt cover because it seems pretty self explanatory. And I forgot to take pictures of it. Remove the cam gears. Someone did this on my engine, not sure why. We already have timing marks from factory. Remove the belt tensioner and the adjuster beside it so that you can remove the metal cam cover part. Just 4 small bolts, make sure you keep all the bolts in labelled containers or something. I don't have any yet so I'm just taking pictures of where they all come from. Next, unbolt the upper camshaft bearings. I like to crack all the bolts before I start undoing them. Not sure why, it's just something I picked up from my Dad. My cams seem to be in pretty good shape, which doesn't really matter since I'll be putting GE cams in. I'll probably sell these ones. You'll notice that the cam bearings have markings on them to tell you where they belong, so it doesn't really matter how you organise them. After you have the main cam bearing bolts undone, you should be able to pull the cam, main bearing and seal off of the head. I pulled the opposite end of the cam up to loosen the main bearing and seal. Push the seal out of the bearing and throw it away, then pull the bearing off of the cam. I like to clean all the excess oil off of everything before storing it. To get the shims out you could use a screwdriver, but I prefer using needle nose pliers. Grabbing the shim at the notch in the bucket should pull the bucket out too. But if it doesn't, just grab the bucket and pull it out afterwards. You really should organise your shims, but I'll be replacing mine anyway. That's all for today, I'll be pulling the head off and removing the rest of the valvetrain when I get a 3/8" drive for the funny star head bolts.
Its a gen2 engine as well...you wont be able to use the GE cams on the gen2 GTE, however they make plenty of aftermarket cams for the gen2. As far as your shims go, hold on to them. Youll need them when you start making your lash measurements.
It turns over and has compression ( I assume not being able to turn it very far before I encounter resistance with the plugs in means it has compression ), and I don't see anything wrong with it so I'm guessing if it had all the extra bits it would run just fine No GE cams in a 2nd gen? Damn. Oh well, I was buying the new cams anyway so might as well get some aftermarkets. I wasn't planning on throwing the shims away. I doubt I'll need to buy new ones, my Dad has a bucket full of outboard engine ( inc. Yamaha ) shims at his workshop and there's bound to be the right sizes in there!
you can use the ge cams out of a gen2, they're 244dur 8.5mm lift. but i'd just recommend (if you can afford) going straight to BC 264s be glad that you have a gen2, gen1 cam's are hard to get. as far as i know only TODA make them, and they're more exp than US made cams (GSC/BC) also gen1 heads have smaller buckets and are more restricted in the amount of lift you can run than the gen2. if you want to go all out and run hilift (10mm+) cams then you eed to either convert to shimunder buckets or fit the 1zz shimless buckets.
How did you get my shopping list? A BC 264 kit ( valves/springs/retainers/cams ) is exactly what I have on there! I was looking at the 272's but couldn't find anyone with them that had commented on how well they run at lower RPM, if I can confirm that they'll be good on normal DD runs as well as 'spirited driving' I'll get them instead.
272's youd wanna have shim under or shimless buckets The 272's the power will be quite high in the rev range but with the use of adjustable cam gears you can lower your power band to lower in the rev range. 264s should be all you need. they should support up to 300kw. and in a front wheel drive you really dont wanna be going to crazy anyways...........unless your mafix coz hes just crazy hahaha
But I want to be crazy like Mafix :lol I want all the bogans in their V6 Chevy-badged commies to know that I am superior! :lachtot I was going for a lower power band anyways, it'd be great if they made 10.16mm lift 264deg duration cams. Adjustable cam gears are already on my list
you can get cams in that spec, but they'd be kelfords and you'd need to fit shim-under or shimless buckets. Mafix is crazy in that he's still only running gen1 GE cams of 240duration. a set of 264's or more would unleash so much more with his setup.
Looking at the Kelfords now, their "serious street performance" cams are 270deg but only 9.60mm lift? They must have a pretty quick ramp rate. Their 10mm+ lift cams are all 260deg+.
you look at the ones for gen3, but as said to run them you need shimunder or shimless buckets. http://www.camshaftshop.com/home?page=shop.browse&category_id=100
These look better than the BC 264's, more lift and around the same duration = more torque down low & decent top end power IIRC http://www.camshaftshop.com/home?pa...shop_view.tpl&product_id=1067&category_id=100 New shimless buckets should be no problem.
I've decided that instead of using a tutorial writing style in this build log, I'll just explain what I've done/what I've found etc.. More like a log. There will still be a ton of useful information for anyone who wants to do a rebuild but it just won't be in a "holding your hand" style, I'm not a professional either so I'm probably not the best person to be writing a tutorial on rebuilding an engine. That being said though, if it's requested I'll start a new thread for the sole purpose of writing a detailed rebuild guide and I'll flesh it out in my spare spare time So today I received my new 12-point star key in the mail! And spent the next 4 hours completely disassembling the engine I undid the head bolts a 1/4 of a turn at a time until I could undo them with my fingers, just like the manual says, following the correct sequence so I didn't damage the head. It took a bit of persuading to get the head away from the block, but you can see why! It looks like the engine had seen a bit of heat before it was removed from it's vehicle. The first thing I'll be doing is getting the head and block checked for warp. Hopefully it isn't too bad, but I'll be getting them both machined anyway. The cylinders aren't in too bad shape, I've repaired worse when I was working for my Dad. It looks like most of the black is just carbon and not burn marks, it comes off with a rag. I got as much carbon off as I could with a rag and blew it away from the cylinders. I think I'll have to get the block and head cleaned professionally to get all of the head gasket out of the coolant lines. I flipped the block on it's end to get the rest of the bits off. Off with the sump, watery oil! Yummy.. Removed the oil pickup. I used a hammer and 2 bits of wood to knock the pulley wheel off of the crank. Off with the oil pump pulley. Oil and water pumps off.. Flipped upside down to get the flywheel end seal off. Holy torque does it take some force to get the main bearing cap bolts loose! Good thing I have this breaker bar! Con rods disconnected, crankshaft out. Just the pistons left. Since I don't have a decent allen key set to get the oil squirters out I decided to push the pistons out through the top. How do they look? There's so much carbon around the rings that some of them are just stuck in the ring lands! My work space. Something I find a bit odd about this engine is the head gasket and pistons look like they've been overheated, but there is little evidence on the bearings that they have been starved of oil. That's all until I start getting machining done and buying new parts. I'll put up pictures of any goodies I get and of any work I get done to the block and head. If anyone wants the pistons and con rods or camshafts, I'm open to offers since I won't be using them.
