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3SGE axle hub removal

Discussion in 'Drivetrain' started by Kiasis, Jun 7, 2008.

  1. Kiasis

    Kiasis Well-Known Member Donated!

    So, I just figured out that the BGB and Haynes World are outdated regarding the camber adjustment cam on the front suspension (that was TSB replaced in 1990). Makes me wonder if there's another design change in the 3SGE axle hub I'm not aware of that's causing my current headache.

    Question: how do I remove the hub? In the BGB there's a hub bolt (one of the five) that is removable and requires a SST that looks like a slightly modified c-clamp. However, I'm just not seeing it on the car and wonder if a puller would remove it, or would I screw up something that needs to be removed first. I can't get at the dust shield, steering knuckle, and wheel bearing w/o taking off the hub first.

    Thanks in advance for clearing this up for me.
  2. Rick89GTS

    Rick89GTS Well-Known Member Moderator Donated!

    Not exactly sure what you're referring to but at the wheel end, you have to take off the 30mm hex bolt to get the CV axle out. At the tranny side, the 5 (6) hex bolts refer only to the 3SFE and 3SGTE motors. For the 3SGE motor, you can use a prybar to ease the CV axle out of the tranny - there are no bolts.


    Ignore the little red arrows below:
  3. Kiasis

    Kiasis Well-Known Member Donated!

    Thanks for the quick response and sorry I wasn't clearer. I've got everything off down to the axle hub/wheel hub. That's where I'm stuck. I may be making life harder than I need to. I'm stuck on step 3 on page FA-14 in the BGB. However, maybe I should be at step 4 on page FA-10, instead. That's where I'm confused. Thanks.
  4. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!

    1 30mm nut on the end of the CV shaft
    2 19mm bolts on the shock absorber. Don't forget to mark camber bolt position
    3 14mm nuts on lower suspension arm
    1 ?mm nut on tie rod end which then requires a SST to seperate the ball joint from the hub
    2 14mm bolts to remove the brake calliper

    Now you may need to use a gear puller to seperate the cv shaft from the hub or worse. I just mangled my pullers when I tried to get the cv shaft out. I had to remove cv shaft & hub and place them in a 20 ton press to get them appart.


    Just mangled the end of the puller on the left.





    This was a rear hub but front is pretty much the same except you have to mark camber position and remove a tie rod end.
  5. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!

    You don't need to do that its just removing the wheel studs as the topic stated. REPLACEMENT OF FRONT AXLE HUB BOLT or (WHEEL STUD)

    Yes you should be on FA8-9 for removal of hub

    FA10 is dissasembly of hub

    What are you trying to do ?
  6. Kiasis

    Kiasis Well-Known Member Donated!

    Damn, I was hoping no one would ask that last question....

    Here's what I'm doing:
    1. Replacing engine and cooling system (blown engine) and engine mounts (any good aftermarket parts or Toyota only?)

    2. Replacing brakes (including caliper rebuild since the pads are new on top and worn to the backing on the bottom) - rotors, pads, SS brake lines

    3. Replacing springs and strut mounts (struts done last year, but then spring collapsed and mounts not done w/ struts, so...)

    4. Replacing steering rack, outer tie rods, ball joints (numerous leaks and busted rubber grease caps. My local mechanic is getting me parts at his cost - nice there's still one old-school auto guy in California and saves me core and shipping charges)

    5. Degreasing everything in new parts washer and perhaps powder coating everything I can (haven't invested in powder coating system, yet)

    6. Having fun buying lots of new equipment and tools and learning as I go, very slowly and methodically w/ lots of taped tags and labels and using the BGB step-by-step..... But would rather not get 20-ton press right now

    7. Discovering how many lousy mechanics have been paid too much money to do crappy repairs in the past. For example, why bother with washers when you can just use your shop compressor to torque the living crap out of bolts and tranny drain plugs to stop leaks? Or, don't worry about checking the vacuum hose diagrams as long as most vacuum fittings you see are covered. My personal favorite was when my in-laws first gave us this 'free' GTS w/ a new engine and the EGR tube wasn't attached to anything because our '88 GTS now had a '86-87 engine in it (no EGR port in head) and the idiot mechanic didn't swap out the '88 fuel rail and oval top injectors, he just cut the harness and stuck the FI wires on the square top '86-87 injectors. After he refused to do anything about it and I got the State Bureau of Auto Repair involved, he replaced it w/ an engine w/ a blown HG so I immediately lost oil, spun a crank bearing, and trashed the lower end. Oh yeah, I also had tons of blow by and was dripping oil from the PCV tube. Couldn't even get close to passing California's strict smog requirements. Before losing the lower end, I tried. I replaced all the intake manifold supports the mechanic left off and all the intake/exhaust gaskets he didn't replace, along w/ having the intake and exhaust manifolds resurfaced since both were warped. I then soldered and shrink wrapped the FI wiring harness after finding another set of 88-89 injectors, having them cleaned/rebuilt by Witch Doctor up in Seattle and finding the proper oval FI connectors.

    That's why I decided to get the proper tools, manuals, parts and take matters into my own hands with the engine, brakes, suspension, and cooling system. I've got a replacement engine ready to go that I'll rebuild after dissecting the old one to learn from that one (and I've got a friend at work who's done engine rebuilds if I get really stuck).

    Sorry for writing a short novel here, but you asked....:)
  7. Mafix

    Mafix Owner Staff Member Administrator Donated!

    you can do the short method. install the axle nut loosely but so the threads stick out on the axle. then smash the hell out of it with a BRASS hammer.
  8. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Well thats the same reason I do my own work. I can't even trust Toyota mechanics anymore.

    As far as the front hub is concerned if you go past DISASSEMBLY OF FRONT AXLE HUB ON FA9 and do FA10.4 REMOVE AXLE HUB FROM STEERING KNUCKLE you will need to replace the bearing and dust seals.

    step FA10.4D is almost impossible to do without their SST tool which costs about $500 and if you fuck up the spindle with the 5 wheel studs thats a $150 part

    I guess your trying to remove the dust shield and stuff for painting ?

    I guess I should have been more specific and asked what are you trying to do to the front hub :roll:
  9. Kiasis

    Kiasis Well-Known Member Donated!

    My thought was that if I'm going to properly fix this classic (IMO) and fun to drive car, I would (at least) remove and degrease the parts caked w/ 20-yrs and 200K miles of crap (I've discovered an anal retentive side I didn't know I had). The powder coating idea came along later as I got into the idea of going past simply fixing-to-make-drivable and into restoring-to-original-or-better-condition (way down the road, including redoing the original leather interior that has been sadly abused). I know the smart move would be to stop at clean and fix - we'll see....

    I sorta figured on replacing the bearings and seals because (1) hell, I'm here and if I'm doing all this work, I might as well do whatever else will keep it going another 50-100K (hopefully) w/o having to redo everything again, (2) when I first got the car, I took it to the dealership and asked them to go over it and they told me I needed to replace the wheel bearings. I've since learned what you said above about even Toyota mechanics. I was naive enough to think they'd recommend fixes when possible, not wholesale replacing. My first 'clue' was when they told me the power steering pump was leaking and shot and the entire thing needed to be replaced. I looked myself and saw the busted idle-up valve on the bottom - spent $5 at the pick n' pull and 20 minutes later had a perfectly functioning, non-leaking PS system. When I removed the wheel hub nuts (because no one bothered to get a 30mm socket - they just tightened then as they could probably with a slip wrench), they were so lose I expect the 'excessive play' was caused by the lose nut.

    So far, I've managed to match up the expensive Toyota SST w/ cheaper, commonly found tools. I don't think I can bring myself to spend $500 on a single tool. Perhaps I'd better rethink that aspect of my project. Although, I'm looking at the BGB right now and SST 09950-20016 doesn't look all that unique from the two-jaw pullers I have that I can't make something work. However, your experience says otherwise?

    Anyway, that's what I'm up to.
  10. ST165-2765

    ST165-2765 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Most of the time you can find replacements that will work instead of the SST's In this case a standard 2 or 3 jaw gear puller may work if the bearing race isn't to tight on the shaft.

    The big problem is that there is not much for the puller to grip onto.

    By clamping the outside of a puller it sometimes works.

    If that doesn't work and it doesn't allways work for me the other option is to grind through the bearing race until your almost down to the shaft its mounted on, you may even grind right through the race into the shaft which isn't great but probably not really going to hurt when the new bearing race is pressed on.

    You will need a hydraulic press to remove the old bearing from the hub and to install the new bearing.
  11. Kiasis

    Kiasis Well-Known Member Donated!

    Perhaps I'm looking a gift horse in the mouth, here, but both my drive axles came out w/ no need for much force/pressure, etc. So easy, in fact, I wanted to check back and make sure that's not a bad thing. Both sides slide out of the wheel hub very easy. I barely needed any of the pry bar for the left-hand shaft at the transaxle housing and perhaps could of just pulled a bit harder w/ my hands and it come out. On the right-hand side, once I removed the squeeze ring, the entire axle slide out of the transaxle w/o needing any pressure. So, do I have other problems or do I have a well lubricated and correct fitting axle assembly?

    On another note, I finally finished pulling the engine. Am I supposed to be able to see the lower half of the fly-wheel exposed? I really doubt it (and considered not even asking such a stupid question) but don't see a cover in the BGB or Alldata online. However, I think there is because 1) there are empty bolt holes, and 2) it seems way too stupid a design to have the fly-wheel and bottom half of the transaxle case inards exposed to road damage. Tried to upload pics, but can't connect to my website server right now (damn, and I was gonna include the obligatory empty engine bay shot, too...). Basically, w/ the engine hosted a couple feet in the air, and looking past the oil pan at bottom of the transaxle case that extends below the engine, it's wide open. Can't be okay....?
  12. Kiasis

    Kiasis Well-Known Member Donated!

    Never mind. Answered my own question - mechanic who replaced the engine never installed the rear engine end plate. Part costs $10 at the dealership (fortunately still available).

    Can I take the tranny by itself to a shop? Is there a way to bench test a stand-alone transmission, or does it require to be on the engine and in the vehicle? I'm in uncharted waters here.

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