I noticed that when I started my car the other day, that I was hearing a sound from under the alternator. It sounds like marbles spinning loose, which I'm thinking is probably the water pump bearing on the way out. I broke a stud on the water pump housing a few weeks back, so will be replacing that, along with the idler pulleys, water pump and timing belt. I'd prefer a shop do it, but circumstances ($) may force my hand to do it myself. Are there any suggestions that you guys may have? I've been reading scans of the BGB, studying up on the job. Would a strap wrench work to hold the crank pulley in lieu of the SST the BGB calls for? Should I replace the cam and crank seals while in there? Engine is a 3S-FE, and just about 400 miles shy of 250,000. Suprisingly, she still runs great, and passes smog every year. :hehe
ill see if i can do a quick t.b. change guide. -unhook all the belts (alt and power steering.) remove the alternator. -remove R.H. wheel. may be neccisary to unblot knuckle/suspensiom to allow access. (whatever way works for you. i usually un bolt the ball joint and tie rod then wire the strut/knuckle out of the way) -remove inner fender plastic cover thingy (the one that allows you to see the balancer.) -remove the right hand motor mount. (1 bolt through mount, 2 bolts holding mount from underneath) -remover the upper timing belt cover -turn the motor to 0 deg on crank timing mark. make sure the cam timing marks also line upwith their marks, if not turn the crank over again and all 3 should line up. (remove the spark plugs to make turning over the motor easier.) -remove harmonic balancer bolt. (this may need to be heated with a butane or acytelene torch, and hit with an impact gun. there torqued to 165ft. lbs and have been on for 25yrs. this is the hardest part. use a 19mm 6 point socket so you dont strip it) recheck your timing marks. and be carefull not to rotate anything after this. ---if you need clearance for an impact it may be neccisary to remove the 2 crossmembers and lower the right hand side of the egine. just put a jack under the motor before you do this as youve already removed 1 mount. -remove balancer. i use a steering wheel puller, no sst necisary. -remove lower belt cover. - MARK THE OLD BELT. you can use nail polish or something, mark two teeth on each gear and then the tooth inbetween those on the belt. make a mark on the engine showing where the key on the crank is. (this will be 0 for now.) -loosen the tensioner bolt and push the tensioner toward the rear of the car and retighten. the mount on the bearing is sloted and for me usually takes a bar to get it moved all the way. (stuff is tight in there) -now remove the belt and transfer you marks to the new belt. -R&R anything else you wish to change out. (usually recomended is water pump, tensioner, idler bearings, cam and crank seals) -put new belt on while aligning marks. start on the crank and work up. (usually on ge motors 1 cam will have to be turned slightly by hand to advance or retard to the proper spot.) -loosen the tensioner and turn the motor over by hand a few times. this run the slack out of the belt. now realign all the marks and make sure they line up. if not remove the belt and try again. the problem is always with getting the last cam turned properly. it is normall for people to end up 1 tooth off because of this. (while this wont result in engine damage if run 1 tooth out, it will result in runability problems and a re-do on the belt.) if you think its ok tighten the tensioner bolt and turn it over by hand a few more times, the triple check your marks (remember the marks on the belt will "walk" away, your just checking the cam and crank marks. also the crank turns twice for every 1 turn of the cam(s). if your marks are way out turn the crank over 1 more time and everything should align.) -re-assemble. and use blue locktight on everything. ----there my be some small bits that may need to be moved or disconnected in order to complete, just remember (or mark) where everything goes. -anyone want to add anything?
I fixed it for you!!! ill see if i can do a quick t.b. change guide. -unhook all the belts (alt and power steering.) remove the alternator. Cup of tea -remove R.H. wheel. may be neccisary to unblot knuckle/suspensiom to allow access. (whatever way works for you. i usually un bolt the ball joint and tie rod then wire the strut/knuckle out of the way) Cup of tea -remove inner fender plastic cover thingy (the one that allows you to see the balancer.) Cup of tea -remove the right hand motor mount. (1 bolt through mount, 2 bolts holding mount from underneath) Cup of tea -remover the upper timing belt cover Cup of tea -turn the motor to 0 deg on crank timing mark. make sure the cam timing marks also line upwith their marks, if not turn the crank over again and all 3 should line up. (remove the spark plugs to make turning over the motor easier.) Cup of tea -remove harmonic balancer bolt. (this may need to be heated with a butane or acytelene torch, and hit with an impact gun. there torqued to 165ft. lbs and have been on for 25yrs. this is the hardest part. use a 19mm 6 point socket so you dont strip it) recheck your timing marks. and be carefull not to rotate anything after this. ---if you need clearance for an impact it may be neccisary to remove the 2 crossmembers and lower the right hand side of the egine. just put a jack under the motor before you do this as youve already removed 1 mount. Cup of tea -remove balancer. i use a steering wheel puller, no sst necisary. Cup of tea -remove lower belt cover. Cup of tea - MARK THE OLD BELT. you can use nail polish or something, mark two teeth on each gear and then the tooth inbetween those on the belt. make a mark on the engine showing where the key on the crank is. (this will be 0 for now.) Cup of tea -loosen the tensioner bolt and push the tensioner toward the rear of the car and retighten. the mount on the bearing is sloted and for me usually takes a bar to get it moved all the way. (stuff is tight in there) Cup of tea -now remove the belt and transfer you marks to the new belt. Cup of tea -R&R anything else you wish to change out. (usually recomended is water pump, tensioner, idler bearings, cam and crank seals) Cup of tea -put new belt on while aligning marks. start on the crank and work up. (usually on ge motors 1 cam will have to be turned slightly by hand to advance or retard to the proper spot.) Cup of tea -loosen the tensioner and turn the motor over by hand a few times. this run the slack out of the belt. now realign all the marks and make sure they line up. if not remove the belt and try again. the problem is always with getting the last cam turned properly. it is normall for people to end up 1 tooth off because of this. (while this wont result in engine damage if run 1 tooth out, it will result in runability problems and a re-do on the belt.) if you think its ok tighten the tensioner bolt and turn it over by hand a few more times, the triple check your marks (remember the marks on the belt will "walk" away, your just checking the cam and crank marks. also the crank turns twice for every 1 turn of the cam(s). if your marks are way out turn the crank over 1 more time and everything should align.) Cup of tea -re-assemble. and use blue locktight on everything. Cup of tea ----there my be some small bits that may need to be moved or disconnected in order to complete, just remember (or mark) where everything goes. Cup of tea and a chocolate digestive -anyone want to add anything?
I never thought of the multiple marks on the belt and gear, that would've helped a ton with the 1 tooth off problem. Thanks for that tip.
The Toyota manual I have says 80ft/lb for the crank bolt. And I never have to remove anything but the tire/wheel and fender apron from the wheelwell area. And Sofo, I don't know how well a strap wrench would hold the crank still. I still do it the old-fashioned way, by holding the flywheel still with a prybar through the starter hole. (Actually I have a small piece of steel stock that I reach in there and wedge where I need it. It has a heavy piece of twine wrapped around it several times and secured with electrical tape in case it falls down into the bell housing.)
