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Power steering fluid leak...

Discussion in 'Diagnosis/Help' started by 5678tyui, Jun 27, 2017.

  1. 5678tyui

    5678tyui Well-Known Member Donated!

    So that you know, I want to say that I do not understand power steering system very well. Here's my situation.

    About a year or two ago, the steering fluid began to leak. I would simply add fluid and go for a few months or so. About a week ago the fluid started leaking substantially.

    When I looked under the car, I saw what I believed to be power steering fluid all over the power steering pump area. From what I could see, the hoseline in and the return tube looked okay but I could still check it out better.

    The next words will be a little clumsy.

    However, d rubber protection grommet that goes over the rack arm and looks like a CV boot was ripped and torn.

    I'll call this the rack rubber protector. When I've looked on the internet this torn rubber protector could mean that I may need a new rack and pinion. The internet also said that this rubber protector could be changed but may require special tools.

    A few questions before I ask for advice.

    Does changing the rubber protector require special tools? Which tools?
    How much does a new rack and pinion cost?

    Thanks.
     
  2. nfocus

    nfocus Member

    I replaced the rack and pinion on my 88. The rebuilt one I got from Autozone was $175, I did the install over a weekend. Then I had to get the alignment done for $65.
     
  3. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    I'd check the HP hose going down to the pump 1st, they are a common problem on these, hard to spot as usually there is a rubber sleeve over the hose.
    The boot is called a steering rack boot, better to by 2 and have a garage put them in as the alignment will have to be done as well.
    They are a roadworthy issue and must be replaced asap.
    That way you will also get a 2nd opinion re your leak and a quote, the HP hose is not an easy job off of a car hoist
     
  4. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    If your garage is any good they will check the CV's, shafts, wheel bearings, tyre wear, rack play, leaks as part of the job
     
  5. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    I meant the HP hose going from the pump to the rack - on RHD cars it is a steel line next to the brake booster and then goes into a hose down to the pump.
    Any hose/brake shop can repair/supply them, new I paid $70 last time
     
  6. 5678tyui

    5678tyui Well-Known Member Donated!

    The power steering issue has been resolved. A new rack and pinion was installed. No more grinding sound or fluid leaks now.

    Please have patience with the following story, thanks. As well, I do have a remaining issue.

    After installing, while test driving and going straight, I noticed that the steering wheel was turned a little to the left (about 10 o'clock). It was also turning harder to the right than it was to the left. I called the mechanic and he came out to fix it.

    But after the "fix" the same thing was occurring. Then, while still test driving, I pushed my brakes and they went to the floor. I pumped them, gained pressure, and was able to stop but was still needing to do this on subsequent stops.

    Long story short, one of my passenger side drum shoes was worn down considerably which caused the drum to rub and slow down the wheel. This is why I believe the steering wheel was turned to the 10 o'clock position to compensate for the wheel rub pulling to the right a little. This steering wheel issue was a head scratcher the fact it happened right after a new rack and pinion installation. Coincidence, I suppose. Anyways...

    Yesterday, a neighbor and I installed new drum shoes, drum shoe parts, and wheel cylinders. As I understand, the issue is that either the drum shoe adjustment and/or emergency brake is too tight. I believe it's the emergency brake.

    The emergency brake was never that good to stop or hold the car. When we adjusted the screw underneath the emergency brake lever, we tightened it all the way down so it couldn't go any further. This helped it stop or hold the car better, but the back wheels seem to rub now and noticeably slow the car. Lastly, the manual says that the emergency brake level should not have to go up more than 8 clicks. If I recall, it goes up either 8 or 9.

    Questions...

    - Without the emergency brake applied, how freely should the wheel spin?
    - It was mentioned that the emergency brake can stretch. Is this true?

    Thanks.
     
  7. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    You need to check YouTube for 'E brake adjustment' or find a manual.
    There is an adjuster between the shoes which needs to be adjusted on each side
    Adjusting the cable tension won't help if the adjusters are too tight
    The wheels should spin free and lock when the handbrake is up 2 notches or more
     
  8. 5678tyui

    5678tyui Well-Known Member Donated!


    You were right. The adjusters were too tight. I loosened the adjuster between the shoes and tires now spin freely. Thank you.

    I forgot to test the lock up using the emergency brake while the tire was spinning freely, 2 or more notches. The emergency brake is holding better but on a very steep road near my house it was unable to hold the car, at 8 or 9 clicks. Again, the nut under the emergency brake can not go down any further. What can I do?

    Thanks again.
     
  9. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    You got to tension each side adjuster to just before it bites, do it thru one of the holes provided with rubber plugs.
    When they are equal and almost grabbing, you then tension the cable sothat it bites at 2 clicks.
    If the pads are new it can take a while for the pads to bed in, apply the handbrake when coming to a stop the next few days.
    If the car pulls to one side when using the handbrake, you will have to adjust the other side harder or loosen that side.
    I'm surprised you were able to get the drums back on, if the pads have been modded in any way it will also affect the bite they have.
    You may have severely stretched cables, check they are equal length at the handbrake and pull evenly, it could even be one of the cables is sticking inside
     
  10. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    1)I meant to say the 1st step is to release the handbrake and undo the cable 1st
    2)Then jack up the rear and remove both wheels
    then proceed above.....

    Ah, the joys of 30yr old mechanical devices!
    Thanks to photobucket the tutorial on this I wrote 10yra ago is now useless
     
  11. Stig

    Stig ST162 Guru Donated!

    I don't think it's necessary to remind guys on the site or reading this -

    ONLY JACK A CAR ON FLAT GROUND
    ALWAYS USE CHOCKS ON THE WHEELS NOT BEING LIFTED
    NEVER PLACE ANY PART OF YOUR BODY UNDER A CAR WHILE ON A JACK/S
    ALWAYS USE APPROVED STANDS (TRESLES) TO SUPPORT THE CAR

    Now I feel better - you won't believe how many accidents there are ignoring these simple rules!
     
  12. vic dat

    vic dat Well-Known Member

    image.jpg I Agree w/Stig about proper floor jacks and stands/chocs etc when doing a lot of the basic 4th gen maintenance.
    I've never really liked what I saw under my GTS.
     

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