So I decided to run a little test today to see if my tvis was workign correctly after watchign this video http://video.google.ca/videoplay?docid= ... H0Bw&hl=en it seems to be pretty defined changeover in tone, so I created a test to see how mine was doing, the wiring is as so. So in theory, when t-vis is activated (ECU ground pin) and the switch is open, the Light will come on. The switch allows you to ground tvis at anytime and should open the valves, and turn on the light. So the failure, I went for a drive, tryed several different rpm turning the switch on. light turns on but there is no change in engine sound ( would be almost undetectable if I did hear something, mind playing tricks would be my guess) and so change in the acceleration of the car (switching the t-vis on mid acceleration) are there any flaws in my test? something that I should have done , or is my t-vis pootched?
I do believe your assumption is correct. When the T-VIS pin on the ECU is grounded the circuit should close. You may have - a faulty vacuum valve - a faulty vacuum switch - a stuck/seized mechanism - a broken/detached vacuum hose - all the butterfly valves may have been removed or fallen out
im having a hard time finding a good picture of the tvis system. I went out and checked the two vacuum lines that operate tvis (aka I went and used a mouth vacuum) http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/1115/i ... ereih0.jpg "one on the right that's lower goes into the outside tip on the green VSV valve on the T-VIS Actuator bracket, the other one on the left that's a little higher goes into the little tank (the up and down tip not the sideways tip) on the same bracket." one of the hoses held the suction, but the other did not. I dont know if anyone knows how they work, or would be able to test theirs when the car is off to see if they get similar results. I tested the voltage of the line running to the ECU and then the ECU grounds the pin there is a 12v current running through the line so I think the electronic side of the system is still working
A - is the actuator for T VIS B - is the VSV for T VIS C - a vacuum tank for T VIS D - is a VSV for other crap The computer should be sending a ground signal to B when you are at 4400 rpm or higher. B should open allowing a vacuum to flow to A which should then open the T VIS valves. Beauty EH
thanks for the picture, the D crap is to cut off the EGR at WOT. The system actually works backwards on a 3sge vs gte. When the VSV is de-energized it allows vacuum from the tank to (pull) the actuator and close the flaps. When the VSV is energised via the ECU it bleeds off the pressure in the actuator and the spring loaded flaps return to the open position. I got my arms down behind the intake(after removing some lines and the strut bar, and with my fingers I can lift some part of the system up wuth my fingers, but Its hard to tell exacly what im messing with. Is there a way up can get a picture of the t-vis unit (maybe a close up on the actuator area), oriented as it would be on the engine (actuator down and angled back) from the perspective of someone who would be trying to fish their arm in behind the engine? I check all the lines, they seem connected, so its eather the tank, vsv, actuator or the unit itself...
Thanks ST, now just to check when you pull up on the area I ahve outlined in red, does it replicate the Green arrows? (closing the flaps and sending the shaft of the actuator into the body") If there much resistance when you pull up?
Up is closed Down is open Mechanism should move nice and easy just a little resistance from the vacuum diaphram, you should be able to open/close it pretty easilly with 1 finger
It probably is and it will be in the rods that hold the butterfly valves. If you can move it up and down a bit then you will find that the more you work it the better it will move. Try getting a bit of oil on the pivot points and work the mechanism up and down. Get a couple drops of oil on your finger and then try to work it into the mechanism and repeat that a few times. Your only other option is to remove the intake manifold.
Im thinking if I cant wiggle it free im going to pull it off. PITA I bet but what isnt these days, remove valve covers, fuel rail, strut bar, all the line and then painfully position a wrench in there some how On the bright side I would give me a chance to install my fuel filter, and get my injectors balanced (if I could find a place in ontario that does it that is). It feel gunked up, I dont think anything is in need of oil back there thanks to an oil leak that keeps it all nicely coated. Feels like it might be buildup interfering with the butterflys..
If you would like more info and some less rusted and much clearer pics i happen to have some very in depth knowledge of the T-VIS system as well as a spare 3S-GE lying around in my garage on a stand with the intake easily removed so i can take pictures of whatever you need, there's already a whole bunch of engine pics (mainly T-VIS) on my Photobucket profile http://s284.photobucket.com/albums/ll2/ ... /?start=60 you might have to search a couple of pages to find them. To initially check whether it's working or not, i advise jacking the car up a little and getting under there so you can see the underside of the intake and the bracket that is your T-VIS actuator, pull off the hose from the VSV to the pressure bell (clearly seen in this picture http://s284.photobucket.com/albums/ll2/ ... C01102.jpg ), pressure should release and the little arm should move freely, if not, then it's jammed.
