Hi, Just wondering if anyone has used MDF to re-do their parcel shelf? I'm planning on using a 1/2" MDF... I am also planning on using this same parcel shelf to attach an amprack underneath.... my concern is the weight... I am skeptic that the ties that pulls the parcel shelf up when the hath is open is not strong enough to support the weight with the amp attached... any suggestions on how I cam modify this? I was thinking of maybe using some hood struts, or maybe just a stronger wire or rope??? Thanks!
On Celibaby (3x ST162's ago) I did that. I took the stock one, traced it out of 1/2" plywood and stuck it in there. Worked great, but it was too thick. I'm going to re-do the cover in mine out of probably 1/8" plywood and carpet it. That should take care of all the issues yet keeping it strong.
I used to have MDF as well, but too heavy for lifting up with the rearlid. Now an old and worn OEM one it it...still need to make a new one of this plastic/aluminum stuff they use for commercial signs and put some carpet on. It's lightweight and ultimately strong !
I'm curious to know what type of material that is and if its available here in the United States. I actually just finished making the parcel shelf today and it fits great. it is true it is a little bit heavy but I think it's pretty sturdy and strong I am thinking of making an amp rack below it the only problem is when lifting it up the strings may not be able to support the weight.
Any sign company like Fast Signs will have this type material, or you could use Lexan or similar materials, they're lightweight and can also be covered in carpet for the same look as stock! Also if need be, you could use aluminum L-channel to attach underneath as strengthening ribs, I did the same on my old sunroof replacement panel, which is thin aluminum sheet!! racerb
A little different approach... I'm in the process of translating my crumbling '86 hatchback deck into a CAD drawing, and when that's done I plan to run myself a new one out of 1/4in marine plywood, might try 9mm or 3/8 and see if it fits properly. Good quality plywood can be waterjet-cut cleanly enough for this application (there might be a little splintering on the top of the piece around the holes, but that's where the tabs fold over anyway and it's all covered...) and the waterjet goes through plywood that thickness like it isn't even there, not much machine time involved. I've got the panel traced onto paper and I've started measuring off the coordinates of the various features (low-tech, yeah) and plugging them into the software, probably about two more hours work to get to a first-pass version. It'll probably take me four cuts to get the dimensions cleaned up, but I'll get there. I'm kind of a nutcase about doing things repeatably, it'll come off the cutter perfectly symmetrical side to side and with all the slots and holes for the supports already in the piece.
Current state of affairs, if anyone cares, first pass at the drawing is done, rendering below is from a dimensioned drawing. Needs prototyping, the bracket slots and straight edges are +/- 0.020 to the original but some of the curved outer edges may be off a bit more. Time to get some ply to cut. OE particleboard is thinner than I thought, so 1/4in ply is going to be the thickest possible target. Anyone got a source for a reasonable approximation of the fabric that goes on the thing? Now, off to sort out the BEAMS harness...
Was waterjetting some other stuff so I took along a piece of 3/16in ply I had laying around. Results attached. Got a couple of the retaining-tab holes for one of the support bars in the wrong place, and the tabs behind the speakers are 1/8in too wide. Plywood of some unknown grade and it's got a thin veneer that's peeling off in spots from the waterjet, but it's usable. Not sure if I'll use it as-is or run another one. Have to find some fabric to cover it with.
Nicely done! I was planing this for a while now, and even got started the process, but got stopped as I didn't find the right material. Then came a lot of work and didn't have time for it. Throw me a pm if you need any wiring diagrams for the BEAMS.
Thanks. I've tweaked the drawing to fix the gotchas but I haven't actually cut a new one with the revised drawing, I'm planning just to use the one I've got. I'll put up a DXF file for anyone who's got access to CNC tooling (waterjet, router, laser, whatever) to cut it. I'll also put up a pic of it in the car, it fits fine.
I've attached the DXF of the hatchback rear shelf in zipped form to keep the site's attachment manager happy.
