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Manual -> Power Windows/Locks Guide

Discussion in 'Interior' started by eNtraxGT88, Mar 5, 2011.

  1. eNtraxGT88

    eNtraxGT88 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Since I don't think this has been put up yet, might as well.
    Most of the power window conversion pictures and steps aren't mine to credit:
    • Some pictures from Dave's (ST165-2765) thread here, also this thread shows everything in a little more detail if needed on the innards of the door.[/*:m:33o2cr95]
    • Nate (187flatliner) figured out that the harness is a direct swap from a non-powered door harness to a powered door harness[/*:m:33o2cr95]
    • I got most of my information for power windows from Adam (don't remember user name as PMs have disappeared since) on here that referred me to a power windows guide that was already done by someone else.[/*:m:33o2cr95]
    This is simply a compilation of the whole thing needed to convert everything over to power options. Every portion is in a paragraph with accompanying pictures. Pictures are mixed from left door to right door and will be mentioned by "L" or "R" beside each pic.

    INGREDIENTS:
    • switches/buttons for door locks and windows[/*:m:33o2cr95]
    • door handle[/*:m:33o2cr95]
    • door panel (without this, you will need to cut and drill holes on your current panel)[/*:m:33o2cr95]
    • both sides of power window mechanisms (each side is different)[/*:m:33o2cr95]
    • both sides of power door lock mechanisms (each side is different)[/*:m:33o2cr95]
    • all the bolts that you can get from the donor car (more is never bad lol)[/*:m:33o2cr95]
    • plastic trim around the door lock button/switch[/*:m:33o2cr95]
    • power window harness (without this, you can still do the power windows, but not the door locks as there is a computer for the door locks on the harness.)[/*:m:33o2cr95]

    REMOVAL:
    First of all, we'll need to take out your door panel. You need to take off the window winder first. There is a clip between the handle and the door that can be popped off with some sort of cloth, then the handle just slides off. RED: 2 screws hold the door handle,PEACH: 2 screws that hold onto the compartment, YELLOW: 2 screws that hold the courtesy light in, TEAL: 1 screw that is behind the courtesy light, and WHITE: under the door handle there is one more screw. Along the PURPLE line there are clips that hold the panel in. After the screws are all off, simply separate the door panel along the purple line from the door frame so that the whole door panel is hanging on by only the top portion. With only the top portion hanging on, lift up the panel off the frame (I found it easier to lower the windows).

    [​IMG] R

    Now we will remove the winder mech. If your door frame is still covered by some sort of plastic thing, remove it from the top down with the least amount of ripping. Lower your window using the winder so the RED nuts appear where they are shown in the picture. Unscrew those two nuts. While holding on to the window somehow, separate the GREEN bar (towards the inside of the car) from the two bolts that are now exposed. The window will be free to move up and down now and it is just much easier to keep the window in, but elevated a little with a block of wood as the 2nd picture shows. Now unbolt the 5 PINK bolts that hold the winder mechanism. fold the mechanism down and pull it out from the door cavity through the hole as the 3rd picture shows.

    [​IMG] R
    [​IMG] R
    [​IMG] R

    Now we will remove the manual locks. The mechanism has 4 rods that need to be taken out. They are hooked onto a hole and clipped by a little plastic piece. From this pic from Dave, unclip A, B, C. For D, I found it easier to unclip the part that goes into where it shows on the 2nd picture, this way you'll get a feel on how to take out the other clips at a much easier angle as well. Clip A and B are harder to take out than clips C and D.
    [​IMG] L
    [​IMG] L

    If you are unclipping rod D from the lock switch side, you need to take off the following bolt and associated pieces. If you are taking it out from the lock mechanism side, you don't need to, but it might be easier.
    [​IMG] L

    After unclipping them, both door's D rods refused to come off with any effort from that door cavity. So I shoved a screwdriver from the top where the window goes through and poke the rod out the hole thru there.
    [​IMG] L

    After these are loose, unbolt the mechanism from the three bolts on the outside of the door frame. These will most likely be rusted somehow, for one of my bolts I thought I ruined the bolt completely, until Nate used a bigger screwdriver lol.
    [​IMG] R

    Now all mechanics are taken out, you'll need to take out the door harness. There are clips along the bottom of the door attaching the wires to the door. First unplug the side mirrors (if you have any option that is power on them), then make sure you shove the courtesy light wiring inside the door cavity. You'll need to feel along the harness and unclip every clip. There is one that is sort of hidden on the part of the door that is the frontmost part of the door. Once those are unclipped, you'll need to go into your kickbox and find this plug. Unplug that and run it through the hole of the body into the door cavity, out through the hole you took the window winder mechanism out of too for ease. Sorry not much more pics on this.
    [​IMG]

    INSTALLATION:

    We'll need to put in the power window mech first. Before we do that, it will have to be turned to the right way to fit through the door cavity hole. This right position is just higher than the lowest position. So what me/nate/rick did is to plug in the power window mechanism and window buttons to the harness and plug in the harness in the kick panel. Wind the window all the way down then up a little bit with the window buttons. this also makes sure that when you bolt the window and the power window mech together, it'll be easier for those two bottom bolts that earlier required the window to be at a certain height.

    So now that that can fit through the hole, put it into position. The manual winder uses 3 bolts for the main part of the mech, while the power ones use 4 and they're different holes. Not to worry, the holes are already there. RED for power window mech holes, TEAL for manual winder mech holes.
    [​IMG] R
    [​IMG] R

    After that's in and bolted on, we need to bolt on the two bolts that are near the door handle in PINK. We can now take out our block of wood or whatever you used. Then it's the GREEN bar held on by the RED nuts. So we have the window part done.
    [​IMG] R

    Now for the power locks. First of all, replace the switch to the one that has the power lock button. Sorry no pics for this, but it's pretty self explanatory. Bolt on the 3 bolts that go on the outside of the door, THEN put the hooks back on. They will be the same hooks as the manual locks. Use whatever means to put the hooks through the holes then the clip to lock them in.
    [​IMG] R
    [​IMG] L

    Now for the harness. The passenger side is pretty much "removal is the reverse of installation". The only difference is of course the plugs for the power locks, the power window mechanism, and the power window buttons. The driver's side is everything like the passenger side plus the computer for the power locks. They will require two different bolts than what we've used so far. Computer goes in WHITE and bolts for it in GREEN.
    (edited) IMPORTANT: you need the driver's side harness (with the computer) plugged into the kick panel before the passenger side will work. The passenger side plugs into the passenger side kick panel but neither power locks or power windows will work. The computer for the power windows is inside the power window switches on the driver's side. The computer for the power locks is on the harness as pictured:
    [​IMG]

    Make sure to run the wires along the part of the door cavity that is towards the inside of the car, or else they will get squished. Make sure you clip the wires onto the same holes where you unclipped the nonpowered harness from, they will be the same holes. VERY IMPORTANT: Make sure the rubber piece that goes between the body of the car and the door are in the proper place, otherwise you will develop cancer in those places. Then just plug in both side's harnesses to each side's kick panels then you're good to go!

    Door panel installation is reverse of installation if using a power window/lock door panel, otherwise fab it then it's good to go!
    NOTE FOR FABRICATION: You can make the power windows work without the harness, but you can't for the power locks, as the computer for that is with the harness itself.
    If needed, the wiring for the power windows as follows:
    Drivers side:
    • Switch/Mech wires = destination/harness wire
      White/Blue = +12v (30amp fuse if needed)
      White/Black = Ground
      Green/White = Wire 1 to passenger door
      Red/Blue = Wire 2 to passenger door
      Green = Green wire from power window motor
      Red = Red wire from power window motor

    Passengers side:
    • Switch/Mech wires = destination/harness wire
      White/Blue = +12v (30amp fuse if needed)
      Green/White = Wire 1 from driver door
      Red/Blue = Wire 2 to from driver door
      Green = Green wire from power window motor
      Red = Red wire from power window motor
      Note: THERE IS NO GROUND for Passenger side.

    This is my first guide on anything, so hit me up with advice on making it better/fixing errors.
     
  2. ST162Coupe

    ST162Coupe Well-Known Member

    looks good man. glad to see you put this up. now you LHD celica drivers can do what i did :p
     
  3. 187flatliner

    187flatliner Seat Breaker Donated!

    you need to let people know that both sides must be plugged in for the windows to work.


    and it wasnt a bigger screwdriver just a better non cheapy one.


    but nice write up.....you should take some more pics of certain areas like where that wireharness plug is located.
     
  4. Rick89GTS

    Rick89GTS Well-Known Member Moderator Donated!

    Well done :thumbsup:
     
  5. eNtraxGT88

    eNtraxGT88 Well-Known Member Donated!

    done my "important" and "notes" are all over the place where they occur tho haha

    will do.
     
  6. Seank90

    Seank90 Well-Known Member Donated!

    Excellent write up!
     
  7. 89vertSE

    89vertSE Well-Known Member

    got a vert, all my windows went dead for a breif time but work now, according to above the drivers side master would be the problem? the little illuminations in the switch were still lit but when u would hit any switch the illuminations would go out (when this happened the car was sittin outside wit the top down at night, thinkin maybe dew got in the switch or suttin? anyone got any ideas?
     
  8. 187flatliner

    187flatliner Seat Breaker Donated!

    yes......i have several different sets of drivers and passenger side switches....more than likely the dew killed your switch.....swap out to a new(used) one and im sure youll fix the problem....if not then swap your passenger side.......
     
  9. oem257

    oem257 Active Member

  10. GRISLOVE

    GRISLOVE Well-Known Member

    So on curious, doing this conversion. On a car that did not have the power option, am I not going to have to hook up additional wires, relays, etc...? I have an 86 st161.

    Sent from my SGH-T769 using Tapatalk 2
     
  11. 187flatliner

    187flatliner Seat Breaker Donated!

    no additional wires need to be hooked up..... you will have to run the stock wires through the door loom but thats easy and they both plug into the footwells right there.
     
  12. GRISLOVE

    GRISLOVE Well-Known Member

    Really! Just plug and play. That's awesome thanks. At least I hope so. I know this exact 86 St was only made for 1 year. I hope it's the same as the others.

    Sent from my SGH-T769 using Tapatalk 2
     
  13. GRISLOVE

    GRISLOVE Well-Known Member

    Update on that. They are NOT plug and play. The plug is the same, but no where near as many wires in it..... We'll this sucks.

    Sent from my SGH-T769 using Tapatalk 2
     
  14. GRISLOVE

    GRISLOVE Well-Known Member

    Body harness side of car with electric windows.... Way more wires. uploadfromtaptalk1409927031521.jpg

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  15. GRISLOVE

    GRISLOVE Well-Known Member

    Now body harness side of my car.... On going to have to run so many wires. uploadfromtaptalk1409927105504.jpg

    Sent from my SGH-T769 using Tapatalk 2
     
  16. 187flatliner

    187flatliner Seat Breaker Donated!

    ive done this...they are plug and play........ on a manual there isnt as many wires as there isnt anything to do in the door except the door switch light. trust me, just plug in the plug to where your "DOOR" harness goes thats it. make sure to grab the "DOOR" harnesses from the "electric" donor. you need everything from both insides of the doors.


    the only other thing is just because your an 86 they may not have made the "body" harness the same which then would lead you to have to add wires. ill go check mine again to see how many wires i have.
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2014
  17. GRISLOVE

    GRISLOVE Well-Known Member

    Oh yeah, I took the entire door. I just went ahead and cut the plug, with about half a foot of the harness out the body side of done car just in case. Alright man. I'll give it a try. I just don't understand where all these others wires are not needed than. They only lead from the harness straight to.the door.

    Sent from my SGH-T769 using Tapatalk 2
     
  18. GRISLOVE

    GRISLOVE Well-Known Member

    All the wires for electric door locks, mirrors, and window. Is the window the only thing that will work.for.me?

    Sent from my SGH-T769 using Tapatalk 2
     
  19. 187flatliner

    187flatliner Seat Breaker Donated!

    the reason why i say this "is plug and play" due to car factories are not gonna make 2 different harnesses unless they have to. what most do is make 1 harness for the top model and then wire every car with that harness whether or not it has that option.

    im 99% sure but there are that weird ones.
     
  20. GRISLOVE

    GRISLOVE Well-Known Member

    Well I think this is the weird one. The body harness is definitely different. Same plug, but there's only 4 wires in it. There's no way that's enough for the courtesy light, electric mirror, window, and door lock. I know this is a kinda rare car. It was only made for 1 year.

    Sent from my SGH-T769 using Tapatalk 2
     

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