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Headlights Problem

Discussion in 'Electronics' started by MDashK, Jul 10, 2013.

  1. MDashK

    MDashK Member

    Hey all, how are you.

    In the past couple of days, I'm having a little problem with my AT160. For some reason, I lost my low/high headlights. The minimums (the ones from the side near to the blinkers) are OK. Also, if I push the switch to lit the maximums temporarily, they work. As long as I keep pushing, of course....

    This started a few weeks ago... I started noticing that, sometimes, when the car passed some small hole or a bump or something, the lights would suddenly shutdown and come up again. A micro-seconds thing... Barelly noticeable.

    Then, over the days, it got worse. One time I unfortunatelly passed a MASSIVE road hole and the lights just went crazy, on and off and on and off during a few seconds. I had to pull over to check what was going on. No luck. They had stopped anyway, staying on, so I kept on travelling.

    The other day, I started the car to go to work, and no lights. All the others are OK, except for these. Well, had to go to work pushing the switch to at least have maximums...

    Checked fuses, all are OK. My believe? Either the switch or some loose cable. I'm betting in the loose cable. The thing is: where???
    Most people tell me that the problem is in the switch. But how can everything else work in the same switch??
    And how can passing on a hole have more influence in the switch rather than a cable?

    So, this is my problem. Hope that anyone can help me out.
    Already tried to open the switch up, but no luck. Only managed to get the cap from the side removed...

    Thanks for all the help in advance.
     
  2. MDashK

    MDashK Member

    Finally fixed

    Well, so I finally got this headlights problem fixed.
    Still, it cost me 210 euros... X.x
    Of course, I took it to the Toyota official mechanics to fix the issue.

    In the end, it was two problems: The lower part of the fuse box, where the connections are, was all messed up and the current was not flowing correctly in there. They fixed that up.
    The major problem, was a damaged cable, more specifically, the ground wire. They had to push a new wire to ground the headlights and fix the issue.

    Anyways, I was able to get a hold of the schematics they used to fix my problem. Turns out the schematics I was able to adquire in the internet did not match at all with the wiring of my car.

    So, for those who might experience the same problem, and eventually need these, here they are:

    [​IMG]
    Direct Download Here: http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/2462/vu95.jpg

    These apply to AT160 and might apply to other european models.

    I tried to get a hold of the full manual, they had to request the schematics to be able to fix my issue, but they only requested to these specific schematics and not the full manual. =\
    Anyways, this is better than nothing and was only given to me as a special request.

    I hope this helps out someone. =)
     
  3. lone wolf

    lone wolf Well-Known Member Donated!

    the manuals are online here ;)

    glad to see your problem fixed !
     
  4. iceworks

    iceworks Member Donated!

    Quick question.. just bought an 88 GT convertible for a song - car is running great and I´m about to take it out for a trip to check out the leaves changing. But... I have one issue - the headlight switch might be dead. When you turn on the lights - nada, no dash lights, no corner lights... nothing.
    If I squeeze the headlight relay in the relay box the headlights come on, but no motors lift the "eyes".

    I tried moving the wires around under the fuse box but got nothing.

    I can manually raise the lights if I need to till I get back, but if I hit rain I will need all lights for safety.

    Offhand does any know the wire color and a place I can splice a temporary switch till I can get my hands on a replacement headlight switch?Thanks in advance!
     
  5. MDashK

    MDashK Member

    Hmm... OK, so let me see If I get this straight:

    You turn on the lights in the switch. Nothing.
    You leave them in the ON position, but then you pop up the hood, open the relay/fuses box, squeeze the Relay for the lights, and they get on, but they do not lift.

    Ok, first: I don't recommend messing with the wires below the fuse box. The best thing you can do there, however, is: take the fuse box out of the hood, disconnect everything (remember to keep track of what was where) and clean all the contacts with one of those contact cleaner spray cans that they sell around. Clean all the contacts and the box.

    After everything is clean, don't forget to check if the relays are all OK.
    I think it's weird that you have to "squeeze" the relay for it to work. Two options: bad relay or bad connection in the fuse box (hence, clean all the contacts).

    The motors, if I'm not mistaken, also use a relay, so the above solution might has well be applied in the issue.
    Bad contact in the relay due to dust and dirt, or bad relay.

    If everything is clean, and all the fuses and relay are double-checked and OK, it's time to chase other two solutions/problems:

    Bad Ground Wire (which was my case) or Bad Switch Handle.

    I would first point to the bad grounding.
    I do believe you have a ground point near the steering wheel, that groundpoint is used for Radio, Alarm and similar.
    You can test everything you need in that Groundpoint.

    First, you need to know which wire is the ground in the cables below your steering wheel that split to the various connections of the car.
    All the wires that come from the switches near the steering, all come together below the steering, and then split again to they're destination. Test before and after the "splitter".

    You turn on the switch for the lights, get to know what is the ground wire, and ground the switch to the Radio ground point that I mentioned earlier. The lights and everything that you turned on, should be on now.
    If they are, and in normal conditions don't get on, then you have a ground wire damaged or with bad contact. You can always get a "bypass" to that ground wire and connect it to the ground point of the radio.


    Anyways, it's always best to perform all these with the schematics of your car in hand.
    But be extra shure that the schematics are for YOUR MODEL. Else, there might be differences that instead of helping you, will lead you further away from the solution.

    Also, be shure to check if the voltage is circulating correctly with the voltmeter. It's best to use one of those that you can pierce a little whole in the wires to check for current.

    Headlights current: ~12v. 11.xx is also good.
    You can also check this in the fuses of the lights.

    After all these are explored and problem not resolved, the only thing that's missing is infact the switch.
    But a switch it's not on of those things that are very cheap... Then again...

    About your temporary solution: You will need the schematics anyways, so, might has well grab them and try the above instead for a permanent fix, instead of using the schematics for something temporary. It will take more time, but it will be permanent. But: Only you know your free time. =)

    For the temporary switch: you can ground it in the point I gave you above, near the steering, but in the end, for the current, you'll need to pursue most of the points I explained to you above, so... It's up to you.
     
  6. iceworks

    iceworks Member Donated!

    Does anyone have a schematic for the 1988 U.S. GT convertible that shows the headlight portion? I would be eternally indebted!!
     

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