EGR Valve Maintenance

If you want to try and get yours to work spray some PB Blaster/WD 40 in the 2 holes indicated by red arrows. Look inside the round holes (yellow arrows)


you will see a metal disc(yellow arrow) and behind that you will see a diafram(red arrow). Get a flat blade screw driver and press down on the metal disc, be careful not to damage the diafram behind it. Go around the 6 holes with the srew driver pressing on the metal disc. It should move 1/8-1/4". If it doesnt at first keep going around the 6 holes and it should work itself free.


Once you get it moving (you should be able to see the shaft (red arrow) moving) you can put a piece of hose on the vacuum attachment and when you suck(apply vacuum) to the hose the shaft should move, this is a safer way to work the mechanism and free it up than useing a srew driver but the screw driver may be needed to initially free it up. You could also spray some carb cleaner in here and it should clean it up a bit. The EGR is not rusted it has become gummed up with varnish or oil sludge so most are saveable.

 

Well it wasn't really timing seing as I don't have to pass smog over here I really don't have much use for a functioning EGR valve

Just trying to help out a buddy with a sick car :alright:

 

Nope sorry my 88 manual doesn't even say how to remove that one.

Unfortunately I would imagine that the ones I have removed were done when stripping down the engine so most major obstacles were allready removed.

 

Ya well....... take a turbo charger, intercooler, heat exchanger and the extra piping associated with it and add that to your 3sge engine bay and then you'll get an idea of how insane you would have to be to work on an All Trac :morons: