Cone filters, debunk

well im not too sure for me , as i brought the car with a pod filter on it , ditched that cheap one and put one on with a heat shield , MUCH BETTER , from what i think

but yeah i of course relocated my battery

have your moved your battery meph?

 

low end torque what in the fuck? shouldnt make anything worse in theory. i havent seen any power losses, but my filter was clogged badly before i put this one on. makes the engine sound awesome. i am definately doing it on every car i get after this, i love it

 

I noticed it just sounds a little beefier, I didn't notice any gains from just a cone air filter. Maybe if I had a nice header and a nice exhaust it would help more, but I don't.

 

yeah tru , i went to go pull a gen 2 3sge header off a 5th gen , but coundnt get the bolts un done how sad

definitly should get more hp out of a header

meph does your car sound different with the new header?

 

Good question - I am hoping my race car sounds more badass once I have the header on - let us know meph.

 

hmmm

Keep us up with this. I could potentially see how modifying the stock box could be more beneficial then aftermarket stuffs.

 

Mine's really loud because I have a DUAL tipped fart muffler AND an exhaust leak before the cat...woo..haha Minor details minor details, I'd worry about that sort of thing if the friggin government would let me pass my etest already lol.

 

effects will be minimal but ultimately less than stock, POD's (if not shielded) breathe in warm air heated by your engine, ever heard of cold air intake, the cold air makes for better ignition, well adapting a POD dierectly onto the AFM without pipe to draw i chilled air is like creating a Warm Air Intake, not so beneficial to your car, Remember that a Pod filter doesn;t just draw in air from the ind, it absorbe air from all around. It won't be like dropping 10 kilowatts, it'll be minor and barely noticable, and if you do notice a difference be sure it's a gain not a loss, i had a mate with an Auto 89' who did a pod change and claimed to high heaven that it made it better, got him to put the stock box back on and then he realised the difference wasn't exactly a good one......although that was a cheap POD.
Just adding my 2 cents

 

Cone/Pod filters, debunk - How to do it properly

Sure these things make it sound & seem more powerful, but you might as well fit a stocking over the intake. If anything there is a drop in power and torque, I've yet to see one make more power on the dyno without the mods shown below.

Most of them are cheaply made and don't filter out the dust your std filter does - check the rating 1st.
The std filter box has a cold intake pipe - without a proper box and cold intake these things are worse (cuz the warm air is less dense) than stock and doing your valves, rings, TB, egr, vsv etc no good with the dust they let through.

A heat shield doesn't keep hot air out, it's job is to stop the filter from melting on your exhaust! If anything it heats up the air entering the filter.

Most pod filters I've seen aren't even secured properly, and eventually the rubber intake pipe splits and causes problems.
If it can move it will tear up your pipes!

These are better ways to get more cold air-

Place the filter behind the front spoiler



Build a box with external intake (preferably funnel shaped to the front)



Run a direct intake - or put that bonnet vent to use



Personally I don't think you can beat a stock box with a better external intake and a TRD filter,
without building a custom box, vents etc

 

no real power difference but once you put the cone filter on, and hit TVIS you will probably smile...sounds awesome with a cone filter.

 

2 sets of trumpeted dual Dellorto's or Weber's is still the benchmark - IMO
With a major cam you get that Thwukka, thwukka and smoke rings, you can tune the motor by listening to the carbs.

I think these sound like a horny warthog, and even worse on an auto - that BwaAh sound
just sounds lame to me but I'm old skoole.

 

From a Thread I posted on Celicatech

On the 165, the stock car suffers really badly from heat management under the bonnet.

Increase the boost, and the temps just get worse.

Few observations and tips from my own experience.

1. If you are not getting rid of the battery, keep the stock air box and go for a panel filter. I junked the standard box and fitted a Blitz SUS filter, pointless in the stock location, it gets only hot air from the fan etc. I am convinced I actually lost power when I first fitted the Blitz.

Where is my filter here going to get decent volume of cool air??

2. Look at ways to vent the bonnet, I cut out two triangles above the turbo, fitted mesh and away you go. Possibly not as effective as a proper scoop, but its a great way to let the latent heat from the turbo escape.

3. If you can move the battery, fit a straight intake and get the filter better positioned... However, bear in mind that the engine fan sits just infront of the filter, so all that hot air, gets sucked in.. still not great.



4. The stock rad is not great, engine cooling on these tightly packed bays is at a premuim, look to upgrade to a decent rad. Otherwise, your cooling will always be marginal.

If you do go aftermarket, make sure you have a good air tight seal round the edge of the rad, I am doing this very soon, it forces the air though the rad, rather than finding ways round the rad.

5. I cheated and got rid of the AFM, and then finally got my Filter to work as it should, by building a cold air box.
It was constructed from Foamex, covered in Nimbus heat shield, sealed with draught excluder taper and foam. It has three feeds, one from the wing with my vents cut into it. A proper aero guy will tell you that these vents need to be different to work really well, but it does help,. a further scoop from underneath ( not to low as it gets thrashed in the wet) and from a small pipe under the headlight space.
Prior to cold air box fitment.



Cold air box



6. lag your down pipe, and keep the turbo heat shield, lots of people junk this, IMO thats a mistake if you still have the stock turbo housing and manifold. Get some extra heat protection on the manifold and it really does help.

7. Check and protect your sensors. The temp system in the 165 is complicated, with multiple temp sensors, found in the rad base and the water elbow. I replaced all three when they started to give strang signals, they commonly fail due to age and heat, and by the time they go, it may be to late to stop further damage. It is costly, but it saved me doing a further head swap. I plan to fit digital temp sensors soon, but its well worth checking the OEM ones.

8. O2 wires, they get cooked by the downpipe, mine were destroyed by heat, giving intermitent error codes and driving issues. you can get univeraal sensors cheap enough and its easy to add heat protection to the wires.

I have stripped out the AC to further help the cooling, although the extra mocal rads and FMIC do restrict this a bit

wing and bonnet pics





Hope this helps a bit.. all my opinion, based on driving the car and track times with the different filter set ups.

I have a panel filter which one day I will use for my next 165 street build. As I think its the best compromise, as stig said without going the full hog.
as you can see I have tested lots of set ups.

 

Here's another idea I think would work well on the ST162
(in the daytime at least)

Wadda ya think?

 

my filter, whatever it may be. will end up underneath the drivers headlight with the maf, or in the drivers fender. i need to put some sort of precoutionary method in, incase it sucks up some water. which is why im swerving towards the fender mount.