Hey all, just wondering if anyone has come across this issue before. Went to wire in small spot lights to the 165 all went good. I went off this diagram for wiring it up. I was able to flick the lights on and off, through high and low beam fine, also was able to switch the spots on and off while in high-beam. The problem started when I was finishing up on the switch in the cabin. Its a 3 contact switch. 2x are your pass through, 1x is you ground to chassis. Soon as I grounded the switch I had no head lights. Also the high beam light in the dash is constantly on soon as you turn on the light circuit. I have disconnected all the circuitry connected to the light I used for the trigger (Connection to the high beam circuit) and still no luck. I have also taken the HEAD relay out with no battery connected for half an hour and tried it again but still had same problem. Still got buzzing coming from the relay, and now headlights. I'm not quite sure if the buzzing is because of low power, or voltage drop not giving the relay enough to stay on, or what. If anyone has had this problem, or knows of some troubleshooting that I can do I'm welcome to suggestions. Thanks again
You only need a 2 pole switch If you want your fogs to be independant then wire the switch to +12V (85) I wired mine to the low beam as I don't want to leave them on accidentally There's something wrong with that drawing, this is how I did it 86 is ground, 85 comes from 12V, low, high etc via a switch
Yep, ok I'll have to adjust that at a later stage. Still have to fault find that stupid HEAD relay in the main fuse box. Also something that some people might find funny. The alternator relay/ fuse maybe has melted itself (not buy me) someone has purposely taken the case off and pushed the cooper contact down onto the other side just to make a connection (barley) may be a start of the starter concerns (have to take a photo and show it), as well as a lack of ground. Its a bloody mess to say the least.. I went fine fixing up the boost gauge wiring/ taking the HOON-gauge out/ taking all the old alarm harness out (what a mess), and did a re-wire on the head-unit. Get up to the lights and a crazy ground from the switch to the chassis of the car stuffs me up.. Specially proud of the re-wire of the hornet alarm system, first time I have wired one of them up, but also the boost gauge, know how to wire that up too now.. Would of been a quite productive day if I didn't cause more problem. Oh well I guess I add it too the list (not that I make mistakes alot ). Also uploaded some more pictures of the main head lights as well, I'd say you would be interested. Took the covers off etc. Also had to take the front grill out.
This is the WRC rally headlight mod, not OEM but well done I still can't see what they did apart from the top bracket which I guess holds everything still http://non-stop-tech.com/brisbanecelicaclub/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=174&p=214#p214 Great fun fixing other people's wiring
Here's a vid I did up. Also you hear the buzzing of the relay in the background. Tried the same relay from a known working GTFour st185 still same issue. [video=youtube;Zp69yMGRa1E]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zp69yMGRa1E&list=UUgk4Ni12MixmLY3Wajs3iSQ& index=1&feature=plcp[/video]
So I ended up finding the problem. The main headlight wire going through the firewall into the fuse box in the drivers side has a snipped wire, and another one of those classic messes of a person that did not know how to solder. soldered it together and heat shrinked it up and, what you know I have lights now.. Say it must of been bumped while I was wiring up the alarm system and soon as that happened its made the contact weaker. Seen it was only just twisted together.. :/ Anyways still have to test this as I don't want it left as one of those intermittent faults. That will bug me to hell!! Thanks again STIG for you help once again.
Like I said, fun with other peoples wiring What I always do with a new car is go round and put everything back how it should be and then start fixing and changing. They are out there - beware
Ok so I found the problem. For some reason they found the need of taping into the wire for the light circuit. Not sure why you would but the other thing was it was lazily wrapped around, twisted together and wraped up with elecy tape.. GRR so got the soldering iron out once again did it all up properly. Tried again and PERFECT I have lights again. But also now, I am converting the lights to the pop up. (I know STIG you said it would look different. But I just had to have the pop-up again. One thing I am now having issues with is that the circuit for the pop-up lights/ mainly the motor circuit does not have any power going to it. It is completely dead. Where do you think would be the most likely spot it could be disabled at if the fuses are all fine. I tried to buzz out the circuit to see if I could get a completed circuit while switching but nothing. I also have checked for 12v from the white/brown (-) and the green/yellow (+), I'm assuming that the next thickest wires are the OPEN/ CLOSE headlight, but I don't exactly know what the smallest wire is. I am considering trying to hook up 12v to the motor to try and check, see if I can get the motor spinning but at the moment I have tried 3 different motors and they all have done nothing. I have also double checked the voltages on both sides.
I hate when people mess with shit they don't understand. I'd like to see those brackets when you get them out, I've toyed with the idea and almost fitted a Corona front but the frog eyes are my favourite. Something about the "no headlight" look in the daytime that appeals to me You got a wiring diagram? afaik the lights are connected to the motors and tells the motors when to open/close The switch is connected to relay #2 and it feeds power to the motors http://bgbonline.celicatech.com/88alltrac/D/D.htm
Oh yer, haha I wasn't the best person to be around when I found this mess tell you that. haha.. Anyway, least I'm doing it properly now, taking me longer to do it, but at least its done properly. Funny thing is I did actually have the light brackets out (both) and I didn't even take a photo, completely forgot.. Need to get the celica registered and driving around in the next couple of days so I probably wont be taking them out. But when I do I will defiantly send some pictures. I think the brackets would qualify for some GOLDEN IDIOT award though.. Should see them.. SUCH A MESS.. Complete wrong way going about it.. GRR.. Anyways. Sad thing is I actually rebuilt some old popups anyways getting them ready to go in but I came accross an issue with the intercooler in the front and the no power through the original conncertors. The plumbing to the inter-cooler gets in the way of the motor on the side, which sucks.. Not sure how I'm going to do it. Found this connector wrapped up in electrical tape. Amazing I havn't found anything else yet. Got new connectors for the lights anyways so I'll splice in the round style connectors instead of these. Basically the motor will push up against the blue piping, which is why they probably converted the lights to rally. Even though it makes it look unique it shouldn't be for that reason. So I have to work out a way of plumbing it in where I can have the motor in. I know that if it still was top mount cooled it would be ok, but I dont have the correct bonnet to do that, and I think I would prefer the front inter-cooler.. Not much of a fan of the water cooled setups. Also hoping to do the front suspension upgrade. Got 184 struts and 185 inserts to install. Yet to get the steering knuckle out so I can get them into a drill press. Waiting on an extra set of hands. . Also thought you might like to see some other pics on the progress. Been quite busy with the whole interior.. Took out the HOON gauges and fixed up a shit load wiring/ plastics and re-did all the gaskets and re-wired the hole engine looms etc etc etc.. haha Most of the interior in. Few bits and piece still awaiting to be installed. Shinny new center caps I though I would never ever find at a local wreckers. Guess I was wrong.. Wish the wheels were not painted black though.. Got stock rear shocks for the back, and new sway-bar end joint.. Not sure what its called lol.. BUT ITS a NEW one for both sides.. If anyone has a stock GTFOUR steering where in good condition I would love to hear from you. Trying to restore it as stock as possible. New sway bar end joint.. (Not sure what you call them) All the center console in, with new center console box hinges.. All polished up and ready to go.. Sadly the old owners decided that a chrome square piece on the interior would look cool around the gear boot. But I hated it, and there was not much else I could do to hide it, so I had to at least try to blend it in with the car. So I painted it with a product called PLASTIDIP, and painted over the top of that with normal spray pain, flat black. Actually worked in blending in with the interior black.. COOL Also original gear stick is installed. Found another one in the wreckers kinda surprised that there are a few still floating around. I HATE SHORT SHIFT.. FYI Polished up the TOYOTA and sprayed it with plasti-dip, and later after it dried I peeled the plasti-dip off the toyota and gave me a very new looking badge.. Sprayed up a front grill getting ready to install pop-ups but obviously I had to have issues with doing that.. Test fitting when I came against the problem. A mess of parts.. Blanky... See the fuse to the alternator, apparently thats running with the alternator, and this is normal (sarcasm). I can say that it is REPLACED with a nice new one.. Not hard to replace a fuse.. lol Bit of the rebuild of wiring/ extractors/ turbo Some reason this was in the circuit of the passengers side indicators.. WTF Leak much, its so nice and clean now lol.. The to-do list, its nearly all ticked off now.. haha The unnecessary amount of wiring I took out. That's not even all of it.. This is when I started to get the shits with the crap I was finding.. Battery relocation under-way, I still dont even know how they got the battery in the front.. There is like no room.. Stupid short shifter.. Fix it with the little screw insert so you can still use the original screws not bloody glue and no-more-nails. Took me ages to scrap all that off too.. I fixed it took me 2 seconds. Anyways I have posted all of this in the wrong spot, but At least you know where I am at now. Well most of these pics are still a little old but the car will be going in the next couple of days and hopefully with a bit of luck there will be a cruise with the club celebrating the first st165 gtfour in the club.. should be good..
Ok try now, if it works now, it was my fault.. I been trying out some new gallery software for the club. Had some permission issues. Sorry
Working OK now I think the answer is to turn the FMIC upside down and have the pipes at the bottom Nice job on the wiring, I see they junked the oil cooler as well? Whats the switch below the lighter?
Yer thanks.. Sorry I forgot to mention too that I have been actually trying to find that wiring diagram you sent through. The front is all put back together for now, but when it comes time to dig the circuit out I know where to go. Thanks for that. The switch below the lighter is the turbo timer switch. Up for 1min middle for off down for 3min.. Not sure if its the actual OEM one or not. It look like its meant to be apart of the car.. Not sure if it is or not cause my last celica's that was the cruise control button.